bathroom remodel options

[mookie]

I have a small (bathtub + 60x74" area) master bathroom that needs to be remodeled. I'm looking for input on the following choices. My priorities are that it last a long time and be simple to maintain and clean, with minimal risk of mildew/mold.

1. bathtub vs. shower. My wife and I are in our 40's and our kids use the other bathroom that has a tub. We rarely use the tub, but I like having the option of using it, so I'm leaning towards getting a tub. I think a tub is less likely to get mildew like you might get in the corners of a shower. On the other hand, a shower is nice because there is no step and you have the option of installing a seat.

2. glass vs. shower curtain (if we go withh a bathtub). I like the simplicity of the shower curtain because there's less chance for mildew getting in crevices, although glass looks nicer.

3. tile for shower/tub. The contractor recommended tile that goes to the ceiling, and picking larger tile so that there is less grout and therefore less area for mildew.  Ideally, I'd like to pick something that does not need to be wiped down after each use.

4. heated vs. non-heated floor. We live in PA, so we'd use the heated floor maybe four months out of the year.

5. recessed lighting vs. wall light fixture and ceiling fan/heat lamp. We currently have a light fixture mounted to the wall above the medicine cabinet and a ceiling heat lamp. We need to install a ceiling fan on a timer, and we like the heat lamp, so I'm looking at this ceiling fan/heat lamp plus a new light fixture.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Panasonic-W ... /315266581

6. washlet seat vs. washlet toilet. I currently have a BioBidet washlet seat that I'm happy with. When we replace the toilet, I'm leaning towards installing the current washlet seat onto the new toilet rather than purchasing a toilet with the washlet seat built in.

7. niches vs. shelves vs. disposable suction cup shower caddy to hold soap and bottles. I suspect that niches and shelves can gather mildew.

8. rack for soaking wet bathing suits--a retractable clothesline might be the best option?
https://www.amazon.com/Retractable-Clot ... 97030&th=1

9. hair trap for drain--our current drain gets clogged all the time, and I've tried the tub shroom and other similar products. Is there any good solution for this?

[Sandtrap]

I have a small (bathtub + 60x74" area) master bathroom that needs to be remodeled. I'm looking for input on the following choices. My priorities are that it last a long time and be simple to maintain and clean, with minimal risk of mildew/mold.

1. bathtub vs. shower. My wife and I are in our 40's and our kids use the other bathroom that has a tub. We rarely use the tub, but I like having the option of using it, so I'm leaning towards getting a tub. I think a tub is less likely to get mildew like you might get in the corners of a shower. On the other hand, a shower is nice because there is no step and you have the option of installing a seat.

2. glass vs. shower curtain (if we go withh a bathtub). I like the simplicity of the shower curtain because there's less chance for mildew getting in crevices, although glass looks nicer.

3. tile for shower/tub. The contractor recommended tile that goes to the ceiling, and picking larger tile so that there is less grout and therefore less area for mildew.  Ideally, I'd like to pick something that does not need to be wiped down after each use.

4. heated vs. non-heated floor. We live in PA, so we'd use the heated floor maybe four months out of the year.

5. recessed lighting vs. wall light fixture and ceiling fan/heat lamp. We currently have a light fixture mounted to the wall above the medicine cabinet and a ceiling heat lamp. We need to install a ceiling fan on a timer, and we like the heat lamp, so I'm looking at this ceiling fan/heat lamp plus a new light fixture.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Panasonic-W ... /315266581

6. washlet seat vs. washlet toilet. I currently have a BioBidet washlet seat that I'm happy with. When we replace the toilet, I'm leaning towards installing the current washlet seat onto the new toilet rather than purchasing a toilet with the washlet seat built in.

To OP:
Given your missive, 2 priorities stand out:
1 Low maintenance/cleaning/mildew/designed for practicality and efficiency. True?
2. As you mention "shower seat". . . so. . is your home a "forever/age in place" home?
Thus:
1. No heat in floor. Keep future malfunctions to a minimum. Get a heat dish that is safe if plugged into a proper GFCI/Etc, outlet away from wet fixtures, or install overhead heat lamps per code by a professional electrician. Again, all safe and per code.
2. Shower curtain. Replace as needed. Choice of patterns and types and colors (Amazon).
3. Shower curtain bar. . .get the curved one as an option. Get the best quality. They can be cheaply made and poorly mounted. Get a shower curtain rod that is solid mounted to the wall, not pressure fit.
4. Low threshold "step in" shower with pan and wall tiles done by an "outstanding shower/tile contractor". Be sure to redo the wall panels as well so this shower is going to be watertight forever. Install new fixtures, valves, etc.
5. While the shower walls are off and the wall studs exposed, install "blocking" at appropriate places for future shower "safety grab bars" if that might be needed, ever. You won't have to use them but they will be in the wall if needed, rather than depend on drilling and plugging into surface tiles for a good shower bar mount.
6. Put in very large wall recesses in the shower for liquid "non soap" (non soap residue) dispensers and a squeegee. Slope the bottom of the wall recesses so they drain.
7. Install smooth quality imported Italian tile or other large size tile on the shower walls with the smallest grout lines possible for easy cleaning.
8. Be sure your shower drain has a "hair trap" that's easy to clean and simple to access.
9. Use the largest and quietest "Panasonic whisper quiet" ceiling vent fan you can get and install it over the toilet area. Install a variable multi button timer instead of the wall fan switch. Shortest time i 15 minutes or so. Have people leave it on and close the door after using the bathroom or shower to vent humidity and stinkies. This also keeps your mildew down so less cleaning.
10. New cabinetry and countertops, easy clean, keep fixtures simple but elegant.
11. lighting. Do a good job.
12. Toilet: get an efficient quality one but simple with no built in this and that (more to clean and go wrong, etc.
13. Paint the bathroom walls semi gloss to keep mildew down and easy to clean etc.
14. Wrap the shower walls to the outside with a narrow 2-3 inch vertical tile line so that there's no mildew or water rot on the wall drywall from splash.
15. Install shower tile surround area all the way to the ceiling to keep mildew and mold and water rot damage to a minimal. Sometimes, owners will pick another tile to match the ceiling paint and install that over the shower area. Choices differ.
**Finally: remodel your bathroom that you use for your own needs, not for other people's needs.
** Do everything or have it done in a very professional licensed contractor way, to the highest standard with the best materials you can afford.

I hope this is helpful, just random notes not in order.
j

(insert standard dis laimer for opinions and onions and perspectives and experiences. . . )

[wilked]

I have a small (bathtub + 60x74" area) master bathroom that needs to be remodeled. I'm looking for input on the following choices. My priorities are that it last a long time and be simple to maintain and clean, with minimal risk of mildew/mold.

1. bathtub vs. shower. My wife and I are in our 40's and our kids use the other bathroom that has a tub. We rarely use the tub, but I like having the option of using it, so I'm leaning towards getting a tub. I think a tub is less likely to get mildew like you might get in the corners of a shower. On the other hand, a shower is nice because there is no step and you have the option of installing a seat.

2. glass vs. shower curtain (if we go withh a bathtub). I like the simplicity of the shower curtain because there's less chance for mildew getting in crevices, although glass looks nicer.

3. tile for shower/tub. The contractor recommended tile that goes to the ceiling, and picking larger tile so that there is less grout and therefore less area for mildew.  Ideally, I'd like to pick something that does not need to be wiped down after each use.

4. heated vs. non-heated floor. We live in PA, so we'd use the heated floor maybe four months out of the year.

5. recessed lighting vs. wall light fixture and ceiling fan/heat lamp. We currently have a light fixture mounted to the wall above the medicine cabinet and a ceiling heat lamp. We need to install a ceiling fan on a timer, and we like the heat lamp, so I'm looking at this ceiling fan/heat lamp plus a new light fixture.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Panasonic-W ... /315266581

6. washlet seat vs. washlet toilet. I currently have a BioBidet washlet seat that I'm happy with. When we replace the toilet, I'm leaning towards installing the current washlet seat onto the new toilet rather than purchasing a toilet with the washlet seat built in.

It doesn't sounds like you take baths nor have a desire to (or at least don't have the space for a true soaking tub). Therefore - I'd just put a shower in. We did a 40x40 for my recent master bath build and the size is perfect. I would resist going much smaller if you can help it.

I did frameless glass on the shower and would do it again. 1+ year in and there's no mildew, no cleaning issues. We used smaller tiles, really don't have an issue with the grout.

I put in a heated floor (Ditra) and we love it. We live in New England. We have slate tile floor and it would be cold without it. I will put heated floors in every master bath I ever can going forward.

We have a ceiling heater/fan combo in a different bath I remodeled. It works pretty well, I like it overall. I decided against it for my master bath as a) my wife isn't a big fan, b) it would have been an additional circuit (you'll need dedicated circuit already for the floor heat), c) It felt redundant with the floor heat (although it is not entirely). It's up to you - if you like it than go for it.

For general lighting we did 4" recessed. Two centered in the room (ie on centerline of bathroom, spaced equidistant) and one recessed over the shower. In addition, vanity lights over the vanity mirrors. All on dimmers which we like.

We put an outlet in next to the toilet and last minute sprung for a Toto washlet (heated seat, heated water, remote). We love it. At a bare minimum do put the outlet in next to the toilet even if you don't think you need it - the next person may want to add a washlet.


This was the 3-D design https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PkaGrA ... sp=sharing

And you can see the progress and finished product here (note, this was an office previously so everything was new)
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing

[tunafish]

Put in a very nice shower. You can take baths in the other bathroom if you want to. As you get older you will be very glad you don't have to step over the side of the tub.

Install grab bars now. I am told it is hard to find studs after the tile is in. For vertical ones, get the ones with slightly rough surfaces, too easy for a hand to slip on the smooth ones.

I have a shower curtain I bought on etsy 1-2 years ago. It has never gotten mold, perhaps because it has no liner. It is zero maintenance. I am busy right now but hopefully I will get back to this and post a link.

[carolc]

Agree that you go with the shower only because you have a tub to use if you want to. I love the walk-in shower with glass door. When you get old, you’ll appreciate a walk in.

We updated our bathroom last winter. It’s a cold room and the heated floor is wonderful. We leave it on about 75 degrees all the time (when it’s cold).

carolc

[Bogle7]

Hire a bathroom designer. They are better at this than you. And, better than a contractor.

Curbless shower will reduce mold and be “universal design”.
We love our Runtal Versus towel warmer.
Spend the money on a Toto toilet with Nexus washlet.
Wife would kill for a heated floor.
Panasonic Whispergreen fan with timer.
One sink. You don’t need two.
Shower head + handheld shower.
Don’t cheap out.

[mookie]

Thanks everyone! You're responses prompted me to add three more questions (7-9) to the original post.

[Glockenspiel]

I'd just go for a walk-in shower instead of a tub. You'll appreciate it more when you get a bit older. If you're going to go with tile, yes, very large tile is better. The grout lines get all gross with smaller tiles. Have you considered a fiberglass shower insert? We have one and it looks very nice and is also easy to clean. Glass shower doors do get calcium build-up if you don't squeegee them down after your shower. If you can afford the heated floor, go for it.

Wall lights in a bathroom do help light up your face more when you're trying to shave and/or put on makeup, so I do love wall lights for bathrooms.

There are nice metal/plastic corner shelves that can be built-in that have drain holes to allow them to dry out, reducing potential for mildew.

[rich126]

Personally I would always install grab bars in the shower. It is easy to slip in a shower and most tubs/floors aren't kind to the head/body.
And I have to admit I prefer shower curtains to shower doors for ease of cleaning and you can throw them away and get new ones relatively cheaply. The doors can look nice at times but having had both, I actually prefer the curtains.

This might be amusing to some here but the bathroom is one place where I want a noisy fan. Helps to cover up other sounds

I also prefer both brighter lighting and dimmer lights. If I have to get up at night to use the bathroom I don't want to be blinded by bright lights as I usually am when in a hotel room. Personally I seldom need a bright light but I know others prefer a bright light for makeup or hair, etc.

I went with Toto Drake toilets in my last couple of homes and found them to be very reliable.

In the main bathroom I think most prefer 2 sinks, one for each person as one person tends to usually have a large collection of "supplies" although it would be rare, in my experience, for 2 people to be using sinks at the same time.

[rebellovw]

We are doing glass doors for all showers/tubs. Nothing beats thick clear glass with minimal hinges. And tile to the ceilings (Schluter style)

We have a little squeegy we use after the shower - and the glass stays beautifully clear. Takes like 30 seconds to clear off the water droplets.

No shower curtains here.

[cbs2002]

here's what we did in the small master in our 3-bath home. There's a regular tub in the basement bath so we still have one.

Removed the old small whirlpool tub - what a silly thing to have installed in the first place (not by us).

White pre-molded but nice shower pan, glass long wall/door, porcelain marble-look subway tile on three sides, inset shelf in rear short wall.

White cabinets, dark floor tile, one-piece low toilet. Two large beveled mirrors, one over each sink. Two 1930s-looking light fixtures, one over each mirror. Nice chrome over solid brass towel bars. Grohe fixtures throughout. Do not skimp on hardware - cheap lights and faucets look cheap from the start and get worse. We ordered all the hardware ourselves online as neither of us was keen on what we found available in stores.

If I had it to do over, i'd do different tile. It actually looks fabulous despite being "not marble" but I'd go for those big 12x12 marble tiles to minimize grout - spouse really wanted the subway tile look. I might put in another inset shelf. Other than that, love it. Spouse did not want any bars or shelves bolted within the shower, so that was just a cosmetic decision. i love the Toto washlet seats though we don't currently have one. Heated floor really depends on your situation - there's a duct running right under our bathroom floor so it sort of made this redundant.

Get used to cleaning the glass door regularly because it does take some elbow grease. Find a good cleaner that you like. Worth it to not have to look at a shower curtain.

[barnaclebob]

You seem to have staying clean as your main concern. There are companies that will install a solid faux granite shower/bathtub so you have no grout and just seals at the corners.

Otherwise if you have room for a full 3ft wide shower do that, its the best bathroom upgrade aside from possibly double sinks.

[quantAndHold]

This is your chance to get what *you* want in a bathroom. Take advantage of that.

We remodeled 3 years ago, and already had separate shower and tub, so we kept the same floor plan. We still never use the tub, and in a smaller bathroom, we would consider it a waste of space. We put in a frameless glass shower stall, which is gorgeous and easy to clean. We have smaller tiles going up the wall to about a foot from the ceiling, with a large shower caddy on the wall. We don’t have any issues with cleaning and mildew, but we didn’t before, either.

We don’t have a heated floor, because we don’t live in that kind of climate. We have a combo fan electric heater installed above the toilet (Panasonic, I think). It isn’t fancy, but it does the job. The toilet is a mid-grade Koehler. Works fabulously, is simple and easy to clean.

We did put in one of those fancy hair trap shower drains that are all the rage now, and it turned out to be a really good decision. It helps a lot when we give the dog a bath, and that week I was going through chemo and lost 3/4 of my hair in two showers. I was able to pop the top on the drain, clean everything out, and go on with life.

[alpenglow]

You seem to have staying clean as your main concern. There are companies that will install a solid faux granite shower/bathtub so you have no grout and just seals at the corners.

Otherwise if you have room for a full 3ft wide shower do that, its the best bathroom upgrade aside from possibly double sinks.

I hate grout. Any recs on quality panels for a shower install?

[mookie]

You seem to have staying clean as your main concern. There are companies that will install a solid faux granite shower/bathtub so you have no grout and just seals at the corners.

Otherwise if you have room for a full 3ft wide shower do that, its the best bathroom upgrade aside from possibly double sinks.

I hate grout. Any recs on quality panels for a shower install?

A tile installer (granted, he's biased) told me that the Bath Fitter liners can be problematic because if water gets behind it, it's trapped there, and mold will grow.

[Glockenspiel]

You seem to have staying clean as your main concern. There are companies that will install a solid faux granite shower/bathtub so you have no grout and just seals at the corners.

Otherwise if you have room for a full 3ft wide shower do that, its the best bathroom upgrade aside from possibly double sinks.

I hate grout. Any recs on quality panels for a shower install?

A tile installer (granted, he's biased) told me that the Bath Fitter liners can be problematic because if water gets behind it, it's trapped there, and mold will grow.

No different than water getting through tile grout lines or in the shower corners. If your grout cracks water can seep in through the cracks and get behind the tile and grow mold. Tile installer obviously has a biased perspective.

[barnaclebob]

You seem to have staying clean as your main concern. There are companies that will install a solid faux granite shower/bathtub so you have no grout and just seals at the corners.

Otherwise if you have room for a full 3ft wide shower do that, its the best bathroom upgrade aside from possibly double sinks.

I hate grout. Any recs on quality panels for a shower install?

A tile installer (granted, he's biased) told me that the Bath Fitter liners can be problematic because if water gets behind it, it's trapped there, and mold will grow.

I mean does it really matter if mold grows in essentially a nearly sealed off space? Mold will grow behind a bad tile job too... I think the shower my dad had done wasn't a liner but completely new panels, essentially just one really big tile. I could be wrong about it because its been awhile and it was my dad who had the work done. But this is just something to look into.

No matter what type of shower installed, except for a full fiberglass insert, the most important part us making sure the water barrier behind the tile or whatever is done properly.

Also FWIW, the house I moved into 5 years ago had a bathfitter redone shower/tub and its holding up great. Pretty much only guests use it but its never needed more than a wipe down.

[ResearchMed]

3. tile for shower/tub. The contractor recommended tile that goes to the ceiling, and picking larger tile so that there is less grout and therefore less area for mildew.  Ideally, I'd like to pick something that does not need to be wiped down after each use.

We renovated two bathrooms on the bedroom level some years ago. We left the tub in the "family" bathroom, so it's there for baths if desired. However, for the primary bathroom, we used the full "tub area" for a big walk-in shower. We put in a showerhead on each end wall, with separate thermostat (I like *hot* showers; DH, not so much), plus he wanted a big "rainforest" showerhead off the ceiling, connected to one of the end thermostats (not a 3rd).

We get freezing temps here in the winter. So the shower on the "outside wall" has the plumbing on the middle/inside wall up to about 2 inches from the exterior wall. That's where the controls are, with a hose for a handheld. But the showerhead "holder" (when not hand held) is on a vertical slider that is set out in the middle of that exterior wall about an inch (the position it would be if the wall plumbing went there. So there is no plumbing in or directly touching that outside wall.
The other end has the regular plumbing in the wall, and a fixed shower head.

Larger tiles (e.g., 12x12 inches?) are fine for the side walls and ceiling within the shower stall area.

However, for the floor, please consider getting smaller tiles, and without a polished or "glossy" (e.g., slippery) finish.

We've got matching stone tile on the shower floor, but they are 2x2 inches, and it's a honed finish (sort of like a matte appearance, not "polished" looking). Even smaller tiles on the floor will make it less slippery.
Note that having the smaller sized tiles on the floor also provides the "edges/grout" areas as "breaks" in the surface, again, to minimize slipping. A "tumbled" finish will be even less slippery.

We've got smaller square, tumbled finish stone for the floor outside the tub in the family bathroom. It's the same marble that is used for the walls around/above the tub; those are highly polished.
On the floor outside the shower in the primary, we used 2x4 inch tiles, with a nice design.
There are some designs in areas of the tile walls in both bathrooms, to avoid just a flat wall of the same old, same old, even though we think the marble itself is beautiful. A litte variation in a few places looks good. That was done with smaller tiles of matching marble, albeit sometimes a different finish.

We've got the frameless glass wall and door, and we love the look. It's not hard to keep clean. (It doesn't have those "multiple tracks" on a bottom edge that sliding shower doors tend to have, where water can pool in the tracks, etc.)

And we've got the multi-timer for the fan in each bathroom, so it can be left with fan running (for 10, 20, 30, etc., minutes). Don't get one without the auto shutoff (that is, just an on/off switch) unless you'll be in the area frequenly to notice if it's been left "on".

Our fans are with the light in the top of the shower area to pull the moisture right out, but the light aren't on the timers. There are other lights in the rest of the bathroom area: another ceiling light and some wall sconces, including on each side of the mirror.

We splurged a bit; we use those two bathrooms several times a day, most of the time. It's about 15 years later now (how did that happen!??), and we are still very happy with the look.
We never had any problem with buildup on the glass shower wall/door. It still looks like new. That glass was the biggest "should we or shouldn't we" splurge, and the moment that bathroom was done, we were extra pleased that we had done it that way!

RM

[Watty]

Since you have a bathtub in the other bathroom then get a shower. Even if you are not in the house when you are elderly having the shower would work a lot better if you or a kid has something like knee surgery and needs to use a shower stool for a while.

As someone else said get grab bars, they are not just for elderly people. As I recall showers/bathtubs are the number two place for home injuries, after stairs.

For no mildew a fiberglass shower surround would be hard to beat but it might not be appropriate for a higher end house.

Consider getting an electric outlet with a timer on it so that something like a curling iron does not get left on.

Plan a place for a nightlight and get plenty of electric outlets. Between things like toothbrush chargers, water picks, curling irons, etc. we are always swapping plugs especially since a night light takes up one of our plugs.

Have realistic expectations for how long it will take. Probably a lot longer than you would like.

You seem to have staying clean as your main concern. There are companies that will install a solid faux granite shower/bathtub so you have no grout and just seals at the corners.

Otherwise if you have room for a full 3ft wide shower do that, its the best bathroom upgrade aside from possibly double sinks.

I hate grout. Any recs on quality panels for a shower install?

A tile installer (granted, he's biased) told me that the Bath Fitter liners can be problematic because if water gets behind it, it's trapped there, and mold will grow.

We had one of those places that had a booth in Costco come in and give us a quote for just the bath/shower replacement. Their price was crazy high for just the Bath and shower not including the things like floor, vanity, toilet, etc. My impression is many of those places are pretty dodgy so be careful if you look into those.

[tunafish]

As I said above, here is the link to the etsy shower curtain I bought 7(!) years ago and which has been maintenance free. She sells them in several designs.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/158964730/ ... n-take-off

[David S]

As usual, lots of good input from Bogleheads. I’ll add my 2 cents (maybe 3) worth of miscellaneous ideas we included in our M. Bath renovation.
• Already said, but large format tile in the shower is an upscale look and results in fewer grout joints. Glazed tile sheds water best, but porcelain works just as well since it’s very dense.
• We installed a tiled curb-less roll-in shower and went ahead and had a grab bar installed. I found a “wave” shaped bar that doesn’t look quite as institutional. Doubles as an extra towel bar.
• We used a linear drain that has a removable hair trap under the removable grate. Unfortunately, one of my tasks is cleaning it out occasionally.
• If you want a nite-lite, there are duplex outlet covers with them built in. No need to use a plug needed for something else.
• Consider a combination showerhead – fixed and handheld.
• If you’re having cabinets built, consider drawers rather than cabinet doors. They are much more accessible, especially as you’re getting older and deep knee bends are not as easily accomplished. Top drawers are sometimes built “U-shaped” to get around the sink and plumbing.

[mookie]

Hire a bathroom designer. They are better at this than you. And, better than a contractor.

Curbless shower will reduce mold and be “universal design”.
We love our Runtal Versus towel warmer.
Spend the money on a Toto toilet with Nexus washlet.
Wife would kill for a heated floor.
Panasonic Whispergreen fan with timer.
One sink. You don’t need two.
Shower head + handheld shower.
Don’t cheap out.

A number of replies recommended a curbless shower--how do you keep the water from getting outside the shower, especially if it's a relatively narrow space (the width of a standard bathtub)? Is it really less chance of mildew than a shower pan?

[Bogle7]

Hire a bathroom designer. They are better at this than you. And, better than a contractor. Don’t cheap out.

A number of replies recommended a curbless shower--how do you keep the water from getting outside the shower, especially if it's a relatively narrow space (the width of a standard bathtub)? Is it really less chance of mildew than a shower pan?

Magic.
And, see "designer" above.

[Duzz78]

I'll add some thoughts.

Curbless shower usually requires a larger shower area or the slab most likely needs to be dropped. This is hard to do on most remodel jobs since the slab is already set. Because your shower area and your bathroom overall is small, you may be better to go with a small lip of 2-3 inches or a shower base. If your area for the shower is only 30" wide, then a) need bypasss doors if no room for a door to swing open b) swing door in this case may only be 18 inches wide and c) you can do with no door and have the base or floor slant toward the shower head where the drain would be located.

You may consider a trapaziod shaped base. This will give you more moveable space within the shower as they can be 42 X 42-inches and put in a corner.

To answer your question of whether a curbless shower has less chance of mildew than a shower pan is dependent on your cleaning maintenance habits and products you use during your shower and for cleaning.

1. Vents: I have two in my master bathroom, near shower and one over toilet. Both are on a variable multi button timer. If your toilet is not in an enclosed area, then run both vents during your shower.

2. Prefer shelves over niches simple because a shelf is easier to wipe down than the niche. Also a cleaner look than added shower caddies or suctioned shelving. If you go with a trapaziod shaped base, corner shelves are a way to go. Otherwise 12" L X 6" D rectangle cut tiles can be place in a corner or near the enclosure wall.

3. Since you have a small master bath, as David S said, they have some built-in drawer cabinets. Or purchase 3 tier roll-out wire basket that pull out of the cabinet base. These mount to the cabinet floor. Can purchase liners so items to don't drop through the grid lines. I did a roller basket in a 30 inch wide vanity. Just measure the distance from the plumbing to the front face opening on one side to find a product to fit. Drawers are better than an open cabinet to me.

4. Hair trap for drain. Many in my community use this Shower Shoom by Junka Innovations. I like that a) it's flat, b) easier to clean and 3) easy to treat or snake drain when needed. I always grab the hair on top after each shower. Periodically, I will remove the rubber center and clean that out. How oftens depends on how much hair gets trapped.

https://www.amazon.com/ShowerShroom-SHS ... s9dHJ1ZQ==

Note: after I squeegee my shower, I wipe down with a towel. Reason: my grout is concaved. Water puddles on top whether on the floor or on the wall. My tile is also textured so I know water droplets can sit in those cavities. When they dry, they leave soap scum behind.

[mookie]

Hire a bathroom designer. They are better at this than you. And, better than a contractor. Don’t cheap out.

A number of replies recommended a curbless shower--how do you keep the water from getting outside the shower, especially if it's a relatively narrow space (the width of a standard bathtub)? Is it really less chance of mildew than a shower pan?

Magic.
And, see "designer" above.

Do you use the designers that are employed at the local bathroom supply stores? Won't they try to upsell?

[Bogle7]

Do you use the designers that are employed at the local bathroom supply stores? Won't they try to upsell?

Are you so unsure of yourself that a designer can upsell you?
Not in my case. I spent 10 years reading https://www.kitchenbathdesign.com/ before we called in our architect for our kitchen renovation.
I am a nerd with very little design sense, but, as a nerd, I make a point of being very knowledgeable about all the appliances, fixtures, fittings, etc.—before talking with a designer.
I am not an easy client.

[Duzz78]

Mookie,
I am revising my response on the trapazoid idea. It is costly to move plumbing. You would need to move your plumbing to accommodate the drain for this type of shower base. So don't know if you are able to extend out the existing tub/shower area with some glass and still have access to what is across from it.
Or I have seen where people put up a track on the ceiling and pull the shower curtain closed when needed. The allows for some more room, and does not anything on the floor. Flooring just needs to angle a bit toward the drain. I have seen this in townhomes in Texas. Actually the shower space is open on the one side. They have 42" not the 30" you have.

[mookie]

This was the 3-D design https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PkaGrA ... sp=sharing

Did you hire a designer? Where did you find them? Like with investment advice, I'd prefer someone independent, but the only ones I've found are employees of the store. If choosing among the options were only a matter of taste and price, I wouldn't need their advice, but the questions I have are are about longevity and maintenance.

Anyways, I think I've made most of the decisions thanks to the advice in this thread: shower; down-sloped corner shelves; large tiles to ceiling with grab bars; Panasonic whisper exhaust on timer w/nightlight or heat lamp; heated floor depending on price; vanity w/drawers; washlet with outlet.

I'm still deciding on: shower pan vs. tiled floor; shower curtain vs. frameless glass; recessed lighting vs. wall fixture, on dimmer switch.

I have trusted referrals to three contractors, but interestingly, they each do it differently--one subcontracts the floor; one does everything; one subcontracts the plumbing. Because it involves such distinct skills--tiling, plumbing, carpentry, electrical--I kind of prefer someone who subcontracts the different tasks. I already have a trusted plumber and electrician--I'm considering hiring one of them and using a carpenter and tiler that they recommend.

[mookie]

I'll add some thoughts.

Curbless shower usually requires a larger shower area or the slab most likely needs to be dropped. This is hard to do on most remodel jobs since the slab is already set. Because your shower area and your bathroom overall is small, you may be better to go with a small lip of 2-3 inches or a shower base. If your area for the shower is only 30" wide, then a) need bypasss doors if no room for a door to swing open b) swing door in this case may only be 18 inches wide and c) you can do with no door and have the base or floor slant toward the shower head where the drain would be located.

You may consider a trapaziod shaped base. This will give you more moveable space within the shower as they can be 42 X 42-inches and put in a corner.

To answer your question of whether a curbless shower has less chance of mildew than a shower pan is dependent on your cleaning maintenance habits and products you use during your shower and for cleaning.

Yes, I'll have to ask the contractor about whether there is a shower pan that can replace a bathtub and how the drain plumbing would work. If problematic, I'll just go with a tiled floor.

Converting the tub to a shower unfortunately leaves some wasted space, because a shower stall does not need to be as long as a bathtub, but I can't use that extra space at the end of the bathtub for anything else.

[quantAndHold]

A tile floor, with or without a curb, will look much classier than a shower pan or tub.

Same with glass shower walls vs a curtain. If I were going to spend the money to get a new bathroom, there is no way I would cheap out on this. Glass looks better, is easier to clean, and you don’t have a slimy shower curtain trying to stick to you all the time.

A tub is harder to step in and out of than a shower. This becomes increasingly important as we mature.

Dimmer vs. no dimmer is like a $5 difference. It’s a light switch. Not sure why you would choose no dimmer.

Lightning is an aesthetic choice. Not sure anyone can answer that without seeing your room. In a small room, though, I would avoid things sticking out from the walls, except maybe over the vanity.

[wilked]

I'll add some thoughts.

Curbless shower usually requires a larger shower area or the slab most likely needs to be dropped. This is hard to do on most remodel jobs since the slab is already set. Because your shower area and your bathroom overall is small, you may be better to go with a small lip of 2-3 inches or a shower base. If your area for the shower is only 30" wide, then a) need bypasss doors if no room for a door to swing open b) swing door in this case may only be 18 inches wide and c) you can do with no door and have the base or floor slant toward the shower head where the drain would be located.

You may consider a trapaziod shaped base. This will give you more moveable space within the shower as they can be 42 X 42-inches and put in a corner.

To answer your question of whether a curbless shower has less chance of mildew than a shower pan is dependent on your cleaning maintenance habits and products you use during your shower and for cleaning.

Yes, I'll have to ask the contractor about whether there is a shower pan that can replace a bathtub and how the drain plumbing would work. If problematic, I'll just go with a tiled floor.

Converting the tub to a shower unfortunately leaves some wasted space, because a shower stall does not need to be as long as a bathtub, but I can't use that extra space at the end of the bathtub for anything else.

That extra space should be easily converted into storage. Or alternatively just let it be, enjoy a bathroom where not every sq inch has 'something'

[wilked]

This was the 3-D design https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PkaGrA ... sp=sharing

Did you hire a designer? Where did you find them? Like with investment advice, I'd prefer someone independent, but the only ones I've found are employees of the store. If choosing among the options were only a matter of taste and price, I wouldn't need their advice, but the questions I have are are about longevity and maintenance.

Anyways, I think I've made most of the decisions thanks to the advice in this thread: shower; down-sloped corner shelves; large tiles to ceiling with grab bars; Panasonic whisper exhaust on timer w/nightlight or heat lamp; heated floor depending on price; vanity w/drawers; washlet with outlet.

I'm still deciding on: shower pan vs. tiled floor; shower curtain vs. frameless glass; recessed lighting vs. wall fixture, on dimmer switch.

I have trusted referrals to three contractors, but interestingly, they each do it differently--one subcontracts the floor; one does everything; one subcontracts the plumbing. Because it involves such distinct skills--tiling, plumbing, carpentry, electrical--I kind of prefer someone who subcontracts the different tasks. I already have a trusted plumber and electrician--I'm considering hiring one of them and using a carpenter and tiler that they recommend.

I was the main designer... I modeled the whole house with Sketchup (it's pretty easy once you get the hang of it), then I did the 3D layout myself. I have a friend of a friend who is a designer and he offered to help me, turned my fairly crude design into the design linked above. This is my 'crude' design that he later made much more slick

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uOmIeV ... sp=sharing

[ResearchMed]

This was the 3-D design https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PkaGrA ... sp=sharing

Did you hire a designer? Where did you find them? Like with investment advice, I'd prefer someone independent, but the only ones I've found are employees of the store. If choosing among the options were only a matter of taste and price, I wouldn't need their advice, but the questions I have are are about longevity and maintenance.

Anyways, I think I've made most of the decisions thanks to the advice in this thread: shower; down-sloped corner shelves; large tiles to ceiling with grab bars; Panasonic whisper exhaust on timer w/nightlight or heat lamp; heated floor depending on price; vanity w/drawers; washlet with outlet.

I'm still deciding on: shower pan vs. tiled floor; shower curtain vs. frameless glass; recessed lighting vs. wall fixture, on dimmer switch.

I have trusted referrals to three contractors, but interestingly, they each do it differently--one subcontracts the floor; one does everything; one subcontracts the plumbing. Because it involves such distinct skills--tiling, plumbing, carpentry, electrical--I kind of prefer someone who subcontracts the different tasks. I already have a trusted plumber and electrician--I'm considering hiring one of them and using a carpenter and tiler that they recommend.

I hadn't looked at the designs before.
So... I just noticed that there is plumbing on the outside wall.

OP: Do you live in an area with real freezing temps? (Not just an occasional dip into the lower 30's F?)

If so, please see my comment in my post above about how we had a nice showerhead on an exterior wall, without any plumbing in that wall at all.

If there are no serious cold spells, then this isn't an issue.

And wilked: I assume you didn't have worries about freezing pipes?

RM

[mookie]

OP: Do you live in an area with real freezing temps? (Not just an occasional dip into the lower 30's F?)

If so, please see my comment in my post above about how we had a nice showerhead on an exterior wall, without any plumbing in that wall at all.

If there are no serious cold spells, then this isn't an issue.

And wilked: I assume you didn't have worries about freezing pipes?

RM

I live in PA, and it can get cold, but I think all of the plumbing currently is interior (none of the faucets are on an outside wall).

[tunafish]

Ref wasted space - I've seen photos of somewhat long shower areas, although I can't recall the details. I think they may have a built-in seat at the back maybe.

I take showers, and in thinking about it I think I use 2/3 of the tub floor area. It's not like we're talking about six unused feet.

[Bogle7]

I'll have to ask the contractor about whether there is a shower pan that can replace a bathtub and how the drain plumbing would work. If problematic, I'll just go with a tiled floor.

Let me repeat myself: Don’t cheap out.

[wilked]

This was the 3-D design https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PkaGrA ... sp=sharing

Did you hire a designer? Where did you find them? Like with investment advice, I'd prefer someone independent, but the only ones I've found are employees of the store. If choosing among the options were only a matter of taste and price, I wouldn't need their advice, but the questions I have are are about longevity and maintenance.

Anyways, I think I've made most of the decisions thanks to the advice in this thread: shower; down-sloped corner shelves; large tiles to ceiling with grab bars; Panasonic whisper exhaust on timer w/nightlight or heat lamp; heated floor depending on price; vanity w/drawers; washlet with outlet.

I'm still deciding on: shower pan vs. tiled floor; shower curtain vs. frameless glass; recessed lighting vs. wall fixture, on dimmer switch.

I have trusted referrals to three contractors, but interestingly, they each do it differently--one subcontracts the floor; one does everything; one subcontracts the plumbing. Because it involves such distinct skills--tiling, plumbing, carpentry, electrical--I kind of prefer someone who subcontracts the different tasks. I already have a trusted plumber and electrician--I'm considering hiring one of them and using a carpenter and tiler that they recommend.

I hadn't looked at the designs before.
So... I just noticed that there is plumbing on the outside wall.

OP: Do you live in an area with real freezing temps? (Not just an occasional dip into the lower 30's F?)

If so, please see my comment in my post above about how we had a nice showerhead on an exterior wall, without any plumbing in that wall at all.

If there are no serious cold spells, then this isn't an issue.

And wilked: I assume you didn't have worries about freezing pipes?

RM

Take another look at the design - I furred out the walls on the exterior walls for the shower.

Also see this photo - I spray foamed the exterior walls and then ran plumbing through the new furred out walls.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sUhoyt ... sp=sharing

Agreed though - if you live in cold climates, repeat after me - thou shalt not run plumbing through exterior walls. There's always another solution...