Car Repair Buyout

[Cyan]

I took my car to the dealer for a factory recall. An electronic module was “blown out” during the repair making the car undrivable. The dealer agreed to replace the part at their cost. A rental car was provided while my car was in the shop.

Now, almost 3 months later, the required repair part is still not available. My case has been moved up to the car company’s corporate level. Still no replacement part though.

At this point, unless the part is available soon, the car company is prepared to offer a buyout for my car.

I’d prefer not to reveal the make and model of the car. It is a nice, small, 2015 car I bought new. It’s economical overall. It has about 85,000 miles on it, has been well maintained, is in good shape, and I know its history. It’s a car I trust and intended to keep for 5 or more years.

What I want is my car back in good working order. But that’s seems to be a diminishing prospect.

The car company has asked for the original sales contract, all dealer & all independent service records, and current registration. I’m not sure why they need all of this. They have my car.

If I can’t get my car back, I am just looking for a fair settlement and to move on. However, to buy a reliable car I can trust (likely used), it may cost much more than the final buyout offer.

When received, how will I know if the offer is fair? I don’t have the car so I can’t take it in for an evaluation or estimate from a 3rd party.

• Do I holdout for the replacement part? The car company has no ETA on the required part.

• Is this an issue to bring up with my auto insurance company?

• Do I need a lawyer?

• Other considerations?

Comments, please, on how do I get a fair buyout offer.

Thanks.

[twh]

You have to weigh the options...

Your car is presumably full paid off. Sure, they will give you some money for your 2015 car, but you will either end up with a new car payment or used car payment or spending a bunch of cash from your account. Have you been wanting a new car anyway? Do you drive a lot or drive little and work from home half time? All these things go into waiting for the part. You might also be able to get this part from a salvage yard.

[WonderWander]

You can get a general idea of market value by looking up your current car (put in current mileage and condition) on places like kbb.com and autotrader.com. Usually they give you a range for trade-in, private sale, etc. I’d also look up comparable listings on a few sites to get a sense of the market. This will give you a baseline of what a reasonable offer would be.

[tibbitts]

I took my car to the dealer for a factory recall. An electronic module was “blown out” during the repair making the car undrivable. The dealer agreed to replace the part at their cost. A rental car was provided while my car was in the shop.

Is this a very rare car? The dealer can't find this module at a salvage yard? I suspect there's more to the story that the dealer isn't tell you.

[Cyan]

Is this a very rare car? The dealer can't find this module at a salvage yard? I suspect there's more to the story that the dealer isn't tell you.

Just an "everyday car". Not rare at all.

[Tubes]

Welcome to the shortage.

Car manufacturers would rather make parts for new vehicles than stock shelves with parts for older ones, especially those past 3 years (warranty period). At the same time, there may not be a lot of salvaged cars for OP's model, or perhaps the "module blow-out" is a common issue. Many brands require dealers to install factor OEM new parts only too. Salvage may not be an option due to policy.

The whole automobile situation right now is just pain, after pain.

OP's story of waiting months is not unique at all.

[Cyan]

Your car is presumably full paid off.

Yes, paid off long ago.

Need the car for normal daily use, but the rental makes waiting easier. I'm not sure how long this can go on nor how long my car should just sit undriven.

[pizzy]

Asking for help determining fair market value without saying the make/model is a bit bizarre and I can’t imagine a reason wanting to keep it a secret.

[Watty]

When received, how will I know if the offer is fair? I don’t have the car so I can’t take it in for an evaluation or estimate from a 3rd party.

In about five minutes with just the VIN number and answering a few question you can get online quotes from places like CarMax, Carvana, Vroom, etc to see what they would offer you for it but you could likely get more for it by selling it yourself. Be sure to print off those offers in case you need to show it to the people you are dealing with. If you print it off as a PDF you can later email it to them if you need to.

I have not done it but there are companies that will do appraisals for cars after they are damaged or totaled to help people with insurance claims when the insurance company is giving you a lowball replacement value or a low diminished value for your car. They give the value of the car before the accident so they may not need to see it. The problem with these is that it would be very hard and expensive to sue the dealership for this value since they could just decline to buy the car unless they are forced to.

You are really really lucky that they are giving you a rental and offering to buy it. I agree with the prior comment that there may be more going on than the details that you posted. Did you by any chance have an extended warranty for the car? If so then be sure to read the details of the extended warranty and it likely has a clause in it where they can buy the car back if it is not economical to fix. It may also have an arbitration clause for any disputes.

When you dropped the car off for repairs you likely got some paperwork which might have something about what happens if the car is damaged while the dealership has it. Be sure to read that. Cars having fender benders while in for repair is not uncommon.

Just an "everyday car". Not rare at all.

I know that you really want to keep the car but if I was in your situation I would take a real hard look at working out a deal where you could trade in your car and also get a new car from the dealership at a fair price even though that might be MSRP without dealer added options or fees in the current car market. I would be reluctant to trade it in for a used car since there are so many ways that they could give you a bad car.

That likely is not what you want but that may be the best answer in a bad situation.

[livesoft]

I got a dealer offer to buy my car yesterday while it was at the dealer getting a fluid change. The appraised value was a joke. I searched for the price that a substantially identical vehicle was being sold for if I wanted to go buy the same car. The asking prices were substantially higher than the firm offer to buy my car.

My point is that you really don't want the dealer to buy your car. You really want them to buy for you a substantially identical car: Same make, model, year, mileage, tires, and color and exchange your broken car for the car that works. You want them to have the hassle of finding that car and buying it. Those should not be your hassles.

[LotsaGray]

I got a dealer offer to buy my car yesterday while it was at the dealer getting a fluid change. The appraised value was a joke. I searched for the price that a substantially identical vehicle was being sold for if I wanted to go buy the same car. The asking prices were substantially higher than the firm offer to buy my car.

My point is that you really don't want the dealer to buy your car. You really want them to buy for you a substantially identical car: Same make, model, year, mileage, tires, and color and exchange your broken car for the car that works. You want them to have the hassle of finding that car and buying it. Those should not be your hassles.

Or they could buy a beat car even from junk yard with the same module and swap the module. Op implies just a common plain jane 8 yo commuter car but won’t share make and model. There is more to this story.

[niagara_guy]

Do a google search with the symptoms you have, might get a hit.

The dealer mechanics are generally not great mechanics, particularly for difficult problems. South Main Auto is in Avoca, NY (small town middle of state), he posts tons of videos about how to diagnose and fix difficult car electrical issues, he is a car electrical genius. I would give him a call, not sure if he will try to diagnose over the phone.

+1 about trying to get a used part if they can't get a new part for you.

I would probably talk to an attorney to understand your rights, some states have lemon law where they have to buy vehicle back. The electrical module is only going to 'blow out' if they made a mistake by not disconnecting the battery during the repair, so their fault. They will not admit that but that's what happened.

I would escalate by talking to a factory representative (for example, a factory rep that works for Toyota, not the dealer). I would be writing letters to the CEO of the car manufacturer as well.

[123]

...A rental car was provided while my car was in the shop...

As long as they are paying for a rental car I would let them keep my car awaiting the replacement part. If they are bearing the costs of the rental car eventually any replacement offer will get better and better, maybe until they just give you a new car.

[Watty]

If they are bearing the costs of the rental car eventually any replacement offer will get better and better, maybe until they just give you a new car.

One of the keys in negotiations is to have realistic expectations.

Having any hope of getting a new car to replace an nine year old car with 85K miles is not realistic.

[toddthebod]

Is this a very rare car? The dealer can't find this module at a salvage yard? I suspect there's more to the story that the dealer isn't tell you.

Just an "everyday car". Not rare at all.

The go online, find the same car with similar mileage for sale anywhere in the country, and find out how much it would cost to buy it and ship it to you. That's the fair price for your car.

[Cyan]

. . . but won’t share make and model. There is more to this story.

Just trying to maintain the focus on the process, not a specific brand.

[twh]

. . . but won’t share make and model. There is more to this story.

Just trying to maintain the focus on the process, not a specific brand.

What electronic module is supposed to be fried?

[LotsaGray]

. . . but won’t share make and model. There is more to this story.

Just trying to maintain the focus on the process, not a specific brand.

Your attempt is not working

[Cyan]

. . . if they made a mistake . . . They will not admit that . . .

. . . I would escalate by talking to a factory representative . . .

You offer some good suggestions.

Please note: The dealer/car company do admit that their mistake caused the problem, and I am in discussion at the corporate level.

[Cyan]

What electronic module is supposed to be fried?

Engine/Electronic Control Module - ECM

[Cyan]

One of the keys in negotiations is to have realistic expectations.

I agree.

But with any offer, I expect a financial hit.

[twh]

What electronic module is supposed to be fried?

Engine/Electronic Control Module - ECM

Just walking down the used module path a bit...

If this is a common brand like Ford, GM, Honda, Toyota, Mazda...even BMW or Mercedes, you should be able to get one from a salvage yard or eBay. It will have to be programmed, but the dealer will have to program a new one anyway. If it is somewhat less common of a car, like say a Volvo, this might be harder to come by. Perhaps they could do this and give you a year warranty on the thing? There are also repair places on the net for some of these -- some are better than others. If this is as simple as they fried some transistors for the injectors, that's easy for those places.

[Jack FFR1846]

The dealer mechanics are generally not great mechanics, particularly for difficult problems. South Main Auto is in Avoca, NY (small town middle of state), he posts tons of videos about how to diagnose and fix difficult car electrical issues, he is a car electrical genius. I would give him a call, not sure if he will try to diagnose over the phone.

Eric O is likely going to head to Wilbert's, which is a pull-a-part junkyard to find the module if it's not available. Chances are, the dealer is restricted to just use new OEM parts. Try junkyards near you. On the down side, the dealer believes they smoked a module. I'm going to take a wild guess that a tech managed to reverse the battery when hooking back up and probably smoked 8 modules.

If you live close enough to flatbed your car to upstate, indeed, make an appointment with Eric. He won't diagnose anything over the phone. Too busy.

[Cyan]

If this is a common brand . . .

Yes, a common brand.

This may be worth pursuing. But I think I would need them to warrant the used part.

I really just want my car back in good working condition. I'm concerned that that won't happen.

[robphoto]

The dealer mechanics are generally not great mechanics, particularly for difficult problems. South Main Auto is in Avoca, NY (small town middle of state), he posts tons of videos about how to diagnose and fix difficult car electrical issues, he is a car electrical genius. I would give him a call, not sure if he will try to diagnose over the phone.

Eric O is likely going to head to Wilbert's, which is a pull-a-part junkyard to find the module if it's not available. Chances are, the dealer is restricted to just use new OEM parts. Try junkyards near you. On the down side, the dealer believes they smoked a module. I'm going to take a wild guess that a tech managed to reverse the battery when hooking back up and probably smoked 8 modules.

If you live close enough to flatbed your car to upstate, indeed, make an appointment with Eric. He won't diagnose anything over the phone. Too busy.

I see these suggestions to take it to South Main Auto, but watching his videos, it's clear he sees his work as serving his local market, and tries to avoid out of town cases.

[Watty]

Not that it helps but last month there was someone with a similar problem which was not caused by the dealer.

viewtopic.php?t=411379

They gave the model and trim information about the car and even the part number and a lot of people tried to help them but they had a very unusual trim level and options which made finding the needed part hard. I don't know how it was resolved.

I really just want my car back in good working condition. I'm concerned that that won't happen.

An additional concern is that even if they eventually get the needed part when they fried the old one they may have also damaged other electrical components. If you get the car fixed and then those problems show up in three months you will have a very difficult time getting them to take responsibility for that too. They may even decline to work on your car again which does happen.

The dealership has already paid for a rental car for around 90 days which at $40 a day has already cost them $3,600. They will not continue to do that forever so the best you can do is to figure out how to go forward with the options that you have.

The next step is likely that they end up turning this over to their legal department because they can't work out a deal with you. You might not get as good an overall deal and you may even need to hire a lawyer if that happens.

Your situation is little different than if someone who was at fault had hit your car and totaled it and you were trying to work out a deal with their insurance company when getting your old car back is not an option.

People have different levels comfort about posting things like their car model on the internet and that "is what it is" but you might want to post;
1) What they offered you for your car.
2) The best offer you got from CarMax/Carvana/Vroom websites.
3) The MSRP of a similar new replacement car, and if that dealer seems to have any inventory of that model.
4) What similar 2015 cars are selling listed for on web sites like CarMax, Autotrader, etc.

[folkher0]

If you accept a buyout, I would try to get the market value of the car without damage. Not the “trade-in” value or the “Kelly blue book” value, which are often lower.

I promise if they buy you out, they will figure out a way to repair and resell the vehicle at a higher price then they offer to you.

[LotsaGray]

If you accept a buyout, I would try to get the market value of the car without damage. Not the “trade-in” value or the “Kelly blue book” value, which are often lower.

I promise if they buy you out, they will figure out a way to repair and resell the vehicle at a higher price then they offer to you.

KBB has not offered “a” price n over 25 yrs iirc. Vehicle I am currently close to getting rid of has a range of $9500 to $15500. And that is without changing the condition adjuster. It also doesn’t include the instant price sale option

[LotsaGray]

If you accept a buyout, I would try to get the market value of the car without damage. Not the “trade-in” value or the “Kelly blue book” value, which are often lower.

I promise if they buy you out, they will figure out a way to repair and resell the vehicle at a higher price then they offer to you.

But I bet it would be for less than they have in it. Remember, they made some repairs AND are in for 3 months of rental.

Op should also ask for a reasonable rental extension. Maybe two weeks or a month max to find and acquire the replacement.

[Cyan]

An additional concern is that even if they eventually get the needed part when they fried the old one they may have also damaged other electrical components. If you get the car fixed and then those problems show up in three months you will have a very difficult time getting them to take responsibility for that too. They may even decline to work on your car again which does happen.

This comment also points to potential issues of going with a used part.

[UpperNwGuy]

Just tell us the make and model, and you will get better advice.

[Cyan]

Op should also ask for a reasonable rental extension. Maybe two weeks or a month max to find and acquire the replacement.

Yes, this is a good point.

Your comments, and those by others in this thread, give me lots of good ideas to consider.

[DoubleComma]

What’s unique in this situation is the dealership service department caused the problem. But in all actuality this isn’t different than you car being totaled in accident this isn’t your fault. Accidents happen, everyone should be prepared for potential your car can be taken out of service due to no fault of your own. It doesn’t mean you would like the result and the settlement will ultimately cost you money if buying a replacement. So from that perspective I would immediately start focusing on a fair settlement. That settlement will be what your vehicle is worth, not what a replacement would cost you.

You know the make & model, it wouldn’t be hard to figure out the value in todays market. There is no value for knowing the vehicles history.

[twh]

An additional concern is that even if they eventually get the needed part when they fried the old one they may have also damaged other electrical components. If you get the car fixed and then those problems show up in three months you will have a very difficult time getting them to take responsibility for that too. They may even decline to work on your car again which does happen.

This comment also points to potential issues of going with a used part.

Part of the thing is that the dealer and manufacturer have a tremendous aversion to doing anything *except* using a brand new part. It may not be necessary, but they will just not want to make it work any other way. They figure it is too "risky" on one level or another. But, you're in a special situation. They messed it up, the dealer and/or the manufacturer, can fix it by going outside their normal guidelines and they can even provide you a guarantee. But, the legal types there would rather pay your thousands to buy you out, which isn't what you want, when they have the ability to just fix it up. I'm just ranting a bit about the throw-away mentality they have rather than the let's figure this out. I hope it works out for you.

[FireSekr]

Pointless thread without knowing the make and model. Having an understanding of the vehicle’s common issues will be a large part in determining whether it’s better to keep or replace.

[bob60014]

Pointless thread without knowing the make and model. Having an understanding of the vehicle’s common issues will be a large part in determining whether it’s better to keep or replace.

+1. The answer will be totally different if it's a Hyundai Accent or a Honda Accord.

[Buford T Justice]

The current eight year old car will soon / quickly become a nine year old car. If this were Deal or No Deal... I foresee the Banker valuing the nine year old car and reducing the offer... since they provided a free loaner in the interim..

I don't think time is on the OPs side.

[AllMostThere]

I got a dealer offer to buy my car yesterday while it was at the dealer getting a fluid change. The appraised value was a joke. I searched for the price that a substantially identical vehicle was being sold for if I wanted to go buy the same car. The asking prices were substantially higher than the firm offer to buy my car.

My point is that you really don't want the dealer to buy your car. You really want them to buy for you a substantially identical car: Same make, model, year, mileage, tires, and color and exchange your broken car for the car that works. You want them to have the hassle of finding that car and buying it. Those should not be your hassles.

Upon reflection, I would fully agree with this statement. In today's market finding a well maintained, low mileage, economical car is nearly impossible. Just a buyout doesn't really do anything for you as you will discovery that replacement will be nearly impossible. Play hardball that they have negatively impacted your daily lifestyle and they need to step up and make you whole!! Perhaps a deep deep deep discount on new vehicle of your choice is in order.

[chassis]

I took my car to the dealer for a factory recall. An electronic module was “blown out” during the repair making the car undrivable. The dealer agreed to replace the part at their cost. A rental car was provided while my car was in the shop.

Now, almost 3 months later, the required repair part is still not available. My case has been moved up to the car company’s corporate level. Still no replacement part though.

At this point, unless the part is available soon, the car company is prepared to offer a buyout for my car.

I’d prefer not to reveal the make and model of the car. It is a nice, small, 2015 car I bought new. It’s economical overall. It has about 85,000 miles on it, has been well maintained, is in good shape, and I know its history. It’s a car I trust and intended to keep for 5 or more years.

What I want is my car back in good working order. But that’s seems to be a diminishing prospect.

The car company has asked for the original sales contract, all dealer & all independent service records, and current registration. I’m not sure why they need all of this. They have my car.

If I can’t get my car back, I am just looking for a fair settlement and to move on. However, to buy a reliable car I can trust (likely used), it may cost much more than the final buyout offer.

When received, how will I know if the offer is fair? I don’t have the car so I can’t take it in for an evaluation or estimate from a 3rd party.

• Do I holdout for the replacement part? The car company has no ETA on the required part.

• Is this an issue to bring up with my auto insurance company?

• Do I need a lawyer?

• Other considerations?

Comments, please, on how do I get a fair buyout offer.

Thanks.

Call around to find the part. Buy it, and call around again to find a shop that will install the part you found. Get your car out of the scummy shop.