Bicycle Recommendations?

[investingdad]

I’m looking for a better way to get exercise since I quit tennis about seven years ago. It occurred to me that before I got my drivers license i absolutely loved biking…I had a Schwin ten speed on which I logged about 2000 miles from age 12 to 16 (I had an odometer on it).

I’m not sure if I want to do this yet or not.

But the issue I’m having is that I don’t know where to start on a bike. I don’t want a mountain bike, I’d like what I guess is a road bike with a drop bar. Most important is a quality shifter, are ten speeds still typical? I really don’t like those giant fat frames I sometimes see. I’m stuck in the past because to me the narrow tube frame is what I think of first.

What are price points for a lightweight road bike for casual recreation? Can I get something under $1000 that isn’t going to be disappointing? Brands? Thoughts?

[JohnM]

find a good local bike shop (or a couple to shop around) and let them help you find the right bike, size, etc. and get it set up properly to fit you. Good brands are Specialized, Trek, Giant, Cannondale and many others. At that price level you want a good aluminum frame bike with entry to mid-level components. Electronic shifting is taking over but at that price you are probably still looking at mechanical shifting. 12 speed is common these days but you may save money with 11 speed. Two chainrings on the front will give you a nice gear range. Shopping at a good LBS will make sure you get a quality bike that fits you and is fit for what you want to do with it and importantly you will have ongoing service support. And usually they will have discounted accessories like helmets, etc. when you buy a bike.

[life in slices]

OP - I too love biking for the exercise and exploring the world around me. Not a pro by any means, but I put in 5-7k per year or so. I started with a more affordable bike (aluminum frame) and then as my enjoyment and love for biking grew, moved into a much more expensive carbon frame bike

I started with something like this and overall a great bike to start with
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bike ... =red_black

It is an eight speed, but the gearing looks pretty good overall - as you move into more expensive bikes it is 'generally' an 11 speed

I would definitely go to a local bike shop and talk through what you want and what price level works best. Having the the frame fit to your size and especially the seat to your sit bones is an important step to a pain free ride

Best of luck to you and ride on!

[BanquetBeer]

Ride a road bike for a bit before you buy - you’re older and it may be a bit bumpy for you. I would also consider XC type bike - this is like a light weight mountain bike with a front shock. “Gravel bikes” are also like road bikes but a bit bigger tires that you don’t have to run at 100psi.

I like road bikes too but to find a road smooth enough to enjoy them is difficult.

[onourway]

Getting back on a bike is a great way to stay in shape. Bike technology has changed quite a lot in just the past decade, so don't get too stuck on what you had in the past.

I will say that unless you are currently fairly fit and flexible, going straight to a drop bar bicycle is going to be a challenge for most people. While current gravel/endurance designs are much more comfortable than the 10 speeds you remember, they still require a fairly forward, athletic position.

I would go to a shop that has a wide variety of bikes and that will let you ride them for 10 minutes or more each. I would try a variety of flat-handlebar models ('hybrids' or 'flat-bar gravel bikes') as well as a gravel/endurance road style (like the Domane posted above) and see what you think.

The shop should be willing to do a limited 'fit' with you which will likely include changing the stem length and/or height, dialing in saddle height, and possibly changing the saddle. Don't forget to budget for associated gear - good padded shorts, a helmet, lights, tools, etc.

[Second Round]

Ride a road bike for a bit before you buy - you’re older and it may be a bit bumpy for you. I would also consider XC type bike - this is like a light weight mountain bike with a front shock. “Gravel bikes” are also like road bikes but a bit bigger tires that you don’t have to run at 100psi.

I like road bikes too but to find a road smooth enough to enjoy them is difficult.

I agree with this. I ride for exercise, so the lightest bike with the skinniest tires actually works a bit against my purpose. What's more, though, the roads around me are seldom in good enough condition for a safe, comfortable ride on skinny tires. But that's what I have. When I was young, I remember once getting around a small city on a beater dirt bike, wide knobby tires and no suspension - and I was just fine. Wish I had that thing now!

w/r/t shocks, I'm not so persuaded about their value. They add weight, they are another component to fail, and I've heard it argued that they soak up some of your pedaling effort (initially, via compression, rather than direct translation of pedaling effort into propulsion). I suspect one virtue is that they may help maintain contact with the ground through decompression. IDK. I'm also not sold on disc brakes for similar reasons (weight and complexity vs. benefit).

To the OP, unless you have reliably smooth roads around you, I would not recommend a road bike with skinny tires. Since you don't want a mountain bike I'd suggest a hybrid or gravel bike. I had a hybrid prior to my current road bike, and it served me well for decades. Jack of all trades, master of none, great for exercise.

As for number of gears, well, it can be bewildering. My current bike has either 24 or 27 speeds, I forget. It's not the number that matters, though, it's the spread of gear ratios. You want a low enough gear to get up the hills you ride without having to get off and walk it. I have some hills near me that are steep enough that I typically must climb them at (IIRC) 4 mph. The highest gears don't matter to me so much b/c going down some other hills will put me at 35+ mph without pedaling - over 40 if I pedal in higher gears. I no longer desire to test my limits there, and would rather burn up my brake pads a bit.

So, shopping for a bike based on # of gears may not be very fruitful unless you're ready to do some math, or you can test a bike's low gear somehow. But to answer your question, I'm not sure 10 is common anymore at all. I have seen 3 gears up front on the crank more, so it seems like a multiple of 3 is more common, and typically, something on the order of 18, 21 and up. You'll find fewer gears with internal hubs if you go that route.

My hybrid was a twist shift, which sounded cool compared to the very imprecise Schwinn 10 speed (lever shift) I had before that aforementioned 1-speed dirt bike. But the twist wasn't terribly exact either. My road bike is now some short of thumb-operated index shifter, and I find it more precise and easier to avoid accidental shifts than with a grip shifter. I can also go down 2 gears at a time quickly when needed.

Those are some random thoughts. Next time I buy I'm going to a) keep it simple and b) better match the tire to the terrain. I had counted on our road maintenance to be better than it has been, so I have a bit of a chagrin about that.

[Wanderingwheelz]

Early in the pandemic my wife and I sold our bikes in like 5 minutes and replaced them with new Trek Verve 3 commuter/recreation bikes that we ride together, and I have to say I really enjoy mine. She does too. All I did was install Bontrager fenders and racks with removable bags/baskets and they’ve worked beautifully for up to 25 mile rides, not to mention short errands to the post office, grocery store etc. They’re definitely anything but light, but who cares for fun rides at a brisk pace. Menchancially they’ve been perfect- we never had to take them back to the shop for complimentary adjustments. Tip: Don’t buy a bike without fenders- you’ll be tempted to skip rides when the roads/trails are wet/muddy.

When I ride by myself, faster and further, I take my Specialized Diverge gravel bike unless I want fenders. In my honest opinion, for a recreational rider there are really no advantages to a road bike when compared to a gravel bike. I would especially seek one out that has two chain rings and a front derailleur if you’re going to be on asphalt at least half the time, since you’ll appreciate the additional gears to go fast. These are becoming harder to find, since the industry is trending heavily to single rings, especially on bikes over $3,000. If you advance to a point where you feel like you’re ready to ride along with other more serious road riders, all you will need is a second set of lightweight wheels with road tires which are no sweat to swap out on higher end bikes.

[dbr]

Getting back on a bike is a great way to stay in shape. Bike technology has changed quite a lot in just the past decade, so don't get too stuck on what you had in the past.

I will say that unless you are currently fairly fit and flexible, going straight to a drop bar bicycle is going to be a challenge for most people. While current gravel/endurance designs are much more comfortable than the 10 speeds you remember, they still require a fairly forward, athletic position.

I would go to a shop that has a wide variety of bikes and that will let you ride them for 10 minutes or more each. I would try a variety of flat-handlebar models ('hybrids' or 'flat-bar gravel bikes') as well as a gravel/endurance road style (like the Domane posted above) and see what you think.

The shop should be willing to do a limited 'fit' with you which will likely include changing the stem length and/or height, dialing in saddle height, and possibly changing the saddle. Don't forget to budget for associated gear - good padded shorts, a helmet, lights, tools, etc.

I agree with this. The good choice for other people does not tell you a lot about the good choice for you. Also, it does take some time to accommodate to the physics and posture of any given bike. Personally I think it is wise to avoid bikes that give a too upright seating position as these are not the most comfortable and efficient in the end and for longer times and distances on a bike. Think if your ride is going to be 2-5miles or 20-50 miles.

Quality components, meaning shifters, brakes, clip-out pedals, etc., are critical if you are to enjoy functional, low maintenance riding. I don't know where the real cut point on price is for those things, but I suspect putting $1000, maybe $2000, into the bike is going to be more satisfactory than otherwise, just as a thought. When I bought a road bike the Shimano 105 groupset was sort of the paradigm for good enough. You can spend a lot more but don't need to. The upshot is that I have ridden for years with only annual maintenance and no repairs to the mechanics.

On any bike, especially a road bike, fit is critical. Note most road bikes start out designed for young, flexible people who with work could be competitive on a race circuit. People like you and me might want less aggressive postures. My bike has a bit of a riser on the bars so I am not reaching below the seat level to hold on. You will have to experiment with this sort of thing.

I do think minimum weight is nice for older people not just for ease of riding but also for carrying the bike around, storing it, and transporting it. I have one place I ride where there are 42 steps up between two trails. I can carry my bike up those steps in one hand. Some people can hardly get up that section at all with heavy bikes. This does not require a $7000 bike to achieve. Mine is actually a steel frame.

Find a good bike shop and enjoy.

[bob60014]

Good suggestions above but depends on your purpose. I wanted just a bit more exercise so several years ago and wanted to try bicycling again, but wasn't sure if I would stick with it. Really had a hard time justifying the $500-$1000 cost too. So I started looking for a used bike, some newer models and some older, and I ended up with a 1972 Schwinn Super Sport. Im quite happy and comfortable riding around on it and average 50-70 miles a week which is perfect for me. For the $80 that I paid for it, plus a few bucks for a little maintenance, it's all I need. Ymmv.

[investingdad]

This is about what I had ages ago…

http://oldtenspeedgallery.com/owner-sub ... rld-sport/

At 49, this type may not be comfortable anymore. But what bike today is a modern analogy?

[caffeperfavore]

I agree with the others that you should find a good bike shop to help guide you, but based on what you've said you might be a good candidate for what they call fitness, city, or hybrid bikes. These are all essentially road bikes (but not racing road bikes) with flat bars. I was recently shopping for one of these to tool around the neighborhood and for casual rides with my daughter. One of the best bang for the buck that I found was a Kona Dew Plus. It has a quality groupset, hydraulic brakes, and a comfortable, more upright sitting position. It has large tires that can soak up the bumps and handle gravel. It seems like a good bike for someone that's not sure if they want to bike or not as you can ride a little of everything with it and it's less that $1000. A couple of the colors are on sale for around $650 right now.

[dbr]

This is about what I had ages ago…

http://oldtenspeedgallery.com/owner-sub ... rld-sport/

At 49, this type may not be comfortable anymore. But what bike today is a modern analogy?

That one someone posted above. There are many examples from lots of bike companies maybe like these: https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bike ... blue_black

This is for an example not a recommendation in particular for anyone in particular.

What you are up against is the classic modern example of over specialization in recreational and outdoor equipment. It doesn't matter if it is bikes, skis, shoes, boots, camping gear, off road vehicles, etc. it is no longer true that shoes are shoes, bikes are bikes, etc. Instead you have to wander through 49 different choices and try to figure out what makes sense. On that one page of Trek bikes the price range is $1129.99 to $13,199.99! And that is just the category they call "endurance road bikes" which might or might not be the nitch it seems you might want to explore.

[bloom2708]

I love bikes. I've owned many amazing bikes. It can be hard to find a "multitool bike" that fits many purposes.

I like the idea of a commuter/gravel bike as a first attempt.

Surly makes a nice bike. Not going to be at the lower end. https://surlybikes.com/bikes/preamble

The Preamble model comes in flat and drop bar. Pick your poison.

You can also try a cyclo-cross style bike. (Cross-check for Surly) They have drop/curved bars usually but have wider tires and disc or cantilever brakes. More for on and off road riding. Better for gravel and mixed paved trails.

My current mix of bikes is a Specialized Fatboy for all purpose riding. Think mountain bike, paved, gravel, trails, snow. Not fast, but it can do most anything slowly.

My other bike is a Brompton M6R. I use this for point A to point B rides and commuting to work. An engineering marvel to behold and fun.

I have had road bikes, cyclo-cross bikes, single speed, older and newer. All amazing.

Facebook Marketplace might be a good place to start. Based on your height you can gauge the size you need.

What is the correct number of bikes to own? One more than you currently have.

P.S. I am 52 and had a beautiful red large frame Schwinn Sprint 10 speed. Put a lot of miles on that thing in my teens. My friend had the blue World Sport. That was high dollar.

[dbr]

You can also try a cyclo-cross style bike. They have drop/curved bars usually but have wider tires and disc or cantilever brakes. More for on and off road riding. Better for gravel and mixed paved trails.

This does bring up the consideration of where a person has the opportunity to ride. In my community there are extensive trails and on street and highway riding opportunities. One does not need to avoid unpaved routes as there really are none to be found. Other locations may offer mainly unpaved/gravel routes, or the most fun may be had in what is really mountain bike riding. So for me a conventional road bike is the formula. A person could well investigate hybrid or less aggressive posture bikes. Road bikes like I ride are not for gravel roads, period.

[goblue100]

Really had a hard time justifying the $500-$1000 cost too.

Just as an aside, how come I never read threads about golfers trying to justify spending dough on clubs, balls, and green fees? Surely the cost to golf is much higher than it is to ride a bike.

[greg24]

I'm similarly aged and rode the Schwinn World Sport in probably about the same era as you. I agree with the posters above that suggest a road bike with super skinny tires may not be the best thing to ride in your area or for your needs. I ride a Trek Marlin 5 mountain bike, so I can hit curbs and potholes and tree roots and not worry about bending a rim, which I did many times on the Schwinn. My spouse rides a Trek FX 2, which is a hybrid, kind of like the World Sport but with slightly wider tires and no drop-down handlebars. Both bikes are reasonably priced and generally available.

Go to your local bike shop, tell them you're getting back into cycling, and try out the different styles to see what works for you.

[dbr]

Really had a hard time justifying the $500-$1000 cost too.

Just as an aside, how come I never read threads about golfers trying to justify spending dough on clubs, balls, and green fees? Surely the cost to golf is much higher than it is to ride a bike.

I think I paid about $1100 maybe 15 years ago for a decent road bike. That comes to $100/year plus maybe $50 or so for a bike shop to do some maintenance. A golfer or downhill skier will pay that to multiples of that in one day. There are very few recreational investments that are as cost effective as a bicycle of moderate quality cost. Note that $1100 bought a bike that has lasted 15 years of reasonable use. Nothing has been replaced except the chain a couple of times. Can't remember if I didn't get new cables once. Obviously tires will wear out.

[JD09]

I bought a Specialized Allez(Claris groupset) in 2019 for ~$800 and installed clip pedals. It was great to have a bike in 2020 during pandemic - and I think the 40-50 mile rides on weekend helped me when I eventually caught Covid.

I'll try and get at least a Shimano 105 groupset. I wish I had spent a bit more for it - I do feel my bike, while its good - falls a bit short for longer rides.

[mrgeeze]

Good suggestions above but depends on your purpose. I wanted just a bit more exercise so several years ago and wanted to try bicycling again, but wasn't sure if I would stick with it. Really had a hard time justifying the $500-$1000 cost too. So I started looking for a used bike, some newer models and some older, and I ended up with a 1972 Schwinn Super Sport. Im quite happy and comfortable riding around on it and average 50-70 miles a week which is perfect for me. For the $80 that I paid for it, plus a few bucks for a little maintenance, it's all I need. Ymmv.

+1

I bought a bike (1990's vintage TREK) 3 years ago at a pawn shop for $60. Spent a few bucks on it over the last couple of years.
My wife now rides it because its a hardtail (front suspension) and she likes that. (

Her mother recently retired from riding at 85. She gave me her 1990's vintage Cannondale (aluminum).
It was pretty neglected so I worked with a local shop to put it back in tip top condition. $250.

I also ride 50-70 miles per week, mostly on dedicated (and safe) bike loop here in Tucson Az.

[onourway]

You can also try a cyclo-cross style bike. They have drop/curved bars usually but have wider tires and disc or cantilever brakes. More for on and off road riding. Better for gravel and mixed paved trails.

This does bring up the consideration of where a person has the opportunity to ride. In my community there are extensive trails and on street and highway riding opportunities. One does not need to avoid unpaved routes as there really are none to be found. Other locations may offer mainly unpaved/gravel routes, or the most fun may be had in what is really mountain bike riding. So for me a conventional road bike is the formula. A person could well investigate hybrid or less aggressive posture bikes. Road bikes like I ride are not for gravel roads, period.

Today's understanding is that there is very little additional rolling resistance from a wider tire run at lower pressure, especially in the real-world of imperfect roads. As a result, most even 'road' bikes today are designed to fit 30-32mm tires which are going to be run at ~70psi rather than 23mm at 110psi. The wider tires will roll just as fast on real-world surfaces, yet be far more comfortable, and fully capable of taking on light to even moderate gravel roads.

For @investingdad, and anyone else interested in getting started riding a bit more seriously than 5-20 miles around town, I would start by looking for an endurance road or gravel bike that takes a minimum of 38c tires. Most gravel bikes will accept much wider than this, with no down-side if you use narrower tires. Then try models with both flat and drop bars, understanding that flat bars will be more comfortable at first, but limit your speed as you progress.

[jj45]

The major brands, Trek, Specialized, Giant, all pretty much offer the same line-up of bikes. A bit of a tweak here or there that aficionados will say are critically important, but are for your purposes irrelevant. Overall, you get what you pay for. There are price points every hundred dollars and each step gets betters stuff. Some brands will give you better brakes at one price point, another will give you better shifters. Go to a good local bike shop, ride some bikes, and select from whatever brands they carry.

There are two big decisions:

• drop bars or straight bars: I suspect you'll find straight bars more comfortable

• suspension: none (rigid), front only (hardtail), front & rear (full): Front suspension is nice on an aging body and helps manage bumpy surfaces.

Disk brakes have migrated down to most price points. They are nice, particulalry if you ride in the rain, but not really necessary. I'm most familiar with Trek's straight bar lineup. The FX and Dual Sport lines both have several models under $1000. The big difference is FX is rigid and Dual Sport has front suspension. If you go for the lowest end models you can easily upgrade the seat if you like.

Remember, you're not racing, you're trying to have fun and get exercise. If a bike is slower but more fun who cares? If it's more comfortable, you'll ride more.

[caffeperfavore]

You can also try a cyclo-cross style bike. They have drop/curved bars usually but have wider tires and disc or cantilever brakes. More for on and off road riding. Better for gravel and mixed paved trails.

Unless you race cyclocross, I would steer you towards a gravel bike instead, which is very similar but has several advantages. First, gravel bikes typically have more comfortable geometry. Cyclocross bikes are usually more racy with a lower handlebar position. Gravel bikes often have better gearing options for getting up steep hills and wider tire clearances, giving you more options of where you ride. Nowadays, there are some cyclocross bikes that blur the lines between them, but in general gravel is going to be superior for most riders, and I say this as someone who owns a cyclocross bike. Some gravel bikes are offered with flat bars too (OP, see Marin, Kona, and Jamis for ones around your price range).

Regarding front suspension, I think it's overkill unless you're mountain biking. Larger tires (especially tubeless with lower pressures) offer similar benefits without the added weight or expense. I've even considered putting a rigid fork on my hardtail mountain bike now that I no longer do very technical trails. Many of us survived and had a lot of fun mountain biking in the pre-suspension era.

[bloom2708]

You can also try a cyclo-cross style bike. They have drop/curved bars usually but have wider tires and disc or cantilever brakes. More for on and off road riding. Better for gravel and mixed paved trails.

Unless you race cyclocross, I would steer you towards a gravel bike instead, which is very similar but has several advantages. First, gravel bikes typically have more comfortable geometry. Cyclocross bikes are usually more racy with a lower handlebar position. Gravel bikes often have better gearing options for getting up steep hills and wider tire clearances, giving you more options of where you ride. Nowadays, there are some cyclocross bikes that blur the lines between them, but in general gravel is going to be superior for most riders, and I say this as someone who owns a cyclocross bike. Some gravel bikes are offered with flat bars too (OP, see Marin, Kona, and Jamis for ones around your price range).

Regarding front suspension, I think it's overkill unless you're mountain biking. Larger tires (especially tubeless with lower pressures) offer similar benefits without the added weight or expense. I've even considered putting a rigid fork on my hardtail mountain bike now that I no longer do very technical trails. Many of us survived and had a lot of fun mountain biking in the pre-suspension era.

Yes. All true. One of my favorite bikes was a Lemond Poprad Disc. A cyclo-cross type bike. I put a lot of miles on that. The stock carbon fork wasn't the best, but that bike was/is a classic.

[beyou]

How old are you ?

Where will you ride ?

Hybrid bikes are good for rough streets, and certain types of trails.
You sit more urpright on hybrid.
Gravel bike will have drop handle bars for a lower crouched position more often associated with faster speed.
Both good for many riding conditions.

I find it to be great exercise.
I do 1000-2000 mi/year now.

[investingdad]

How old are you ?

Where will you ride ?

Hybrid bikes are good for rough streets, and certain types of trails.
You sit more urpright on hybrid.
Gravel bike will have drop handle bars for a lower crouched position more often associated with faster speed.
Both good for many riding conditions.

I find it to be great exercise.
I do 1000-2000 mi/year now.

Turning 50 this summer. I’d probably be riding around my neighborhood and nearby neighborhoods, all paved streets.
No trails.

[cbs2002]

I don't really understand the preference for straight bars over drops. Drops give you more options for hand position over long rides, as do some of the longer curved single-level bars. The bigger issue, I think, is handlebar height. Many manufacturers (or bike shops) cut the steerer tube too short, or put people on too-small bikes. Net result is the crouched racing position you see on TV that is wrong for most people.

Get a bike where the saddle and bar are roughly the same height.

Make sure the frame is big enough and get the saddle height and crank length set up properly.

50/34 rings in front ("Compact double") and 10 or 11 in back is more than enough. Most people use the same few speeds unless doing serious climbing.

I like Surly and Jamis but you'll probably be fine on most modern bikes. Plan to spend at least $1000 for a basic ride, more if you want clipless pedals and shoes (which are worthwhile but not a must-have).

[tzukulika]

I will go against the grain here and recommend to focus not on the bike , but on the actual fit of the bike.
I know (some from personal experience ) that comfort on the bike trumps bike weight , number of gears and any other doodads.
A bike fit ( likely 300$ upfront) will save you money on the long run by making sure you select the right SIZE bike, that fits your fitness level and your personal goals.
Look around in your area and get in touch with a bike fitter. Buy used first that would likely satisfy your needs. Upgrade in 2 years.
N+1

[caffeperfavore]

Yes. All true. One of my favorite bikes was a Lemond Poprad Disc. A cyclo-cross type bike. I put a lot of miles on that. The stock carbon fork wasn't the best, but that bike was/is a classic.

I have been stalking Ebay Poprads on and off for some time now. I really, really don't need another bike, but those are so cool. I have a steel Lemond road bike that I should probably sell, but I can't seem to let it go.

[goblue100]

Really had a hard time justifying the $500-$1000 cost too.

Just as an aside, how come I never read threads about golfers trying to justify spending dough on clubs, balls, and green fees? Surely the cost to golf is much higher than it is to ride a bike.

I think I paid about $1100 maybe 15 years ago for a decent road bike. That comes to $100/year plus maybe $50 or so for a bike shop to do some maintenance. A golfer or downhill skier will pay that to multiples of that in one day. There are very few recreational investments that are as cost effective as a bicycle of moderate quality cost. Note that $1100 bought a bike that has lasted 15 years of reasonable use. Nothing has been replaced except the chain a couple of times. Can't remember if I didn't get new cables once. Obviously tires will wear out.

I got my "dream" bike in 2013 used for $1600. Specialized Roubaix, carbon fiber. The amortized cost is $160 per year, or 8 cents per mile ridden. It was my second bike, after buying the obligatory starter bike (which cost an insane amount to my spouse, $700).

[chuckwalla]

I recently bought a Specialized Roll 3.0 cruiser and a Cannondale Quick CX 3 hybrid bike. Both excellent bikes for recreational riding.

[dbr]

You can also try a cyclo-cross style bike. They have drop/curved bars usually but have wider tires and disc or cantilever brakes. More for on and off road riding. Better for gravel and mixed paved trails.

This does bring up the consideration of where a person has the opportunity to ride. In my community there are extensive trails and on street and highway riding opportunities. One does not need to avoid unpaved routes as there really are none to be found. Other locations may offer mainly unpaved/gravel routes, or the most fun may be had in what is really mountain bike riding. So for me a conventional road bike is the formula. A person could well investigate hybrid or less aggressive posture bikes. Road bikes like I ride are not for gravel roads, period.

Today's understanding is that there is very little additional rolling resistance from a wider tire run at lower pressure, especially in the real-world of imperfect roads. As a result, most even 'road' bikes today are designed to fit 30-32mm tires which are going to be run at ~70psi rather than 23mm at 110psi. The wider tires will roll just as fast on real-world surfaces, yet be far more comfortable, and fully capable of taking on light to even moderate gravel roads.

For @investingdad, and anyone else interested in getting started riding a bit more seriously than 5-20 miles around town, I would start by looking for an endurance road or gravel bike that takes a minimum of 38c tires. Most gravel bikes will accept much wider than this, with no down-side if you use narrower tires. Then try models with both flat and drop bars, understanding that flat bars will be more comfortable at first, but limit your speed as you progress.

This is true and good advice.

[protagonist]

What are price points for a lightweight road bike for casual recreation? Can I get something under $1000 that isn’t going to be disappointing? Brands? Thoughts?

I think a good hybrid is the perfect compromise of cost/comfort/functionality for exercise, commuting and fun riding....you should expect to pay between $500 and $1000 new. Everything under $400 new is probably junk. Here is a good starting point: https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/revi ... uter-bike/
I found the most valuable add-ons are replacement handlebar grips and saddle- definitely well worth the money to find the best for you. And panniers if you are going to use it for shopping and the like. Oh, and definitely lights. And bike shorts and helmet. So expect to add on a few hundred bucks for accessories.
Shop at a reliable bike shop where they can tweak your bike and know what they are doing. Avoid big box stores.

I own two hybrid bikes (a Trek that I got new over 10 years ago that was Wirecutter's pick at the time, and a Priority like the Wirecutter recommendation above that I bought used) and like them both for different reasons. My typical rides are 10-30 miles though I have done 70+ in one clip with the Trek and it was OK (I cannot compare what it would have been like if I had a high-end road bike because, well, I don't have one). I also own an e-bike that serves a very different function.

[beyou]

I don't really understand the preference for straight bars over drops. Drops give you more options for hand position over long rides, as do some of the longer curved single-level bars. The bigger issue, I think, is handlebar height. Many manufacturers (or bike shops) cut the steerer tube too short, or put people on too-small bikes. Net result is the crouched racing position you see on TV that is wrong for most people.

Get a bike where the saddle and bar are roughly the same height.

Make sure the frame is big enough and get the saddle height and crank length set up properly.

Funny, I bought a road bike on the larger side of what is recommended, and I like the position and ease of riding it. Yet casual riders do look at it and say “that bike is too big for you”. I bought it at the top LBS in my area, and feel they sold me a good and appropriate bike for it’s intended purpose (longer faster rides).

I also have smaller bikes (mtn and hybrid) with flat handlebars but added handlebar extenders to give me more grip angles too. Sometimes in shorter rides I like sitting upright, go slower but always good to have options on the handlebar.

[cbs2002]

I don't really understand the preference for straight bars over drops. Drops give you more options for hand position over long rides, as do some of the longer curved single-level bars. The bigger issue, I think, is handlebar height. Many manufacturers (or bike shops) cut the steerer tube too short, or put people on too-small bikes. Net result is the crouched racing position you see on TV that is wrong for most people.

Get a bike where the saddle and bar are roughly the same height.

Make sure the frame is big enough and get the saddle height and crank length set up properly.

Funny, I bought a road bike on the larger side of what is recommended, and I like the position and ease of riding it. Yet casual riders do look at it and say “that bike is too big for you”. I bought it at the top LBS in my area, and feel they sold me a good and appropriate bike for it’s intended purpose (longer faster rides).

I also have smaller bikes (mtn and hybrid) with flat handlebars but added handlebar extenders to give me more grip angles too. Sometimes in shorter rides I like sitting upright, go slower but always good to have options on the handlebar.

Yeah your bike is probably the right size! My road bike feels great, I've done long multiday tours on it, and I even think sometimes I could go up a size. Unless you are intentionally prioritizing speed above all else, I don't see the point in a small bike.

[niagara_guy]

I used to ride a touring bike, similar to a road bike but made for long distance touring (softer frame, mounts for bags, …). they ride similar to a road bike and probably cost more new.

i believe the Trek 520 has been around a long time as a touring bike.

[breakaway]

Find your closest outdoor store that also sells bikes. Go take a look at what they have and try a few for size, also to get an idea of cost. Also try your local bike store (lbs) and see what they have to offer. Don't forget that used sports equipment stores also sell bikes and you may get a good used bike.
Online market places also list bikes for sale that you may want to look at, though be aware of scams (especialy those that want any form of money or phone verification).

[Wannaretireearly]

I got a giant contend AR for around $1500 from my lbs.

It’s a really good starter road bike imo.
Thicker tires, solid ride. Good luck.
I had a thread on this a few years ago.

[arf30]

Another recommendation here for the Trek Verve

[il0kin]

You can also try a cyclo-cross style bike. They have drop/curved bars usually but have wider tires and disc or cantilever brakes. More for on and off road riding. Better for gravel and mixed paved trails.

Unless you race cyclocross, I would steer you towards a gravel bike instead, which is very similar but has several advantages. First, gravel bikes typically have more comfortable geometry. Cyclocross bikes are usually more racy with a lower handlebar position. Gravel bikes often have better gearing options for getting up steep hills and wider tire clearances, giving you more options of where you ride. Nowadays, there are some cyclocross bikes that blur the lines between them, but in general gravel is going to be superior for most riders, and I say this as someone who owns a cyclocross bike. Some gravel bikes are offered with flat bars too (OP, see Marin, Kona, and Jamis for ones around your price range).

Regarding front suspension, I think it's overkill unless you're mountain biking. Larger tires (especially tubeless with lower pressures) offer similar benefits without the added weight or expense. I've even considered putting a rigid fork on my hardtail mountain bike now that I no longer do very technical trails. Many of us survived and had a lot of fun mountain biking in the pre-suspension era.

I agree, and bought a Giant Revolt 2 this year for $1000 after several years on a hybrid. Shocks aren’t actually necessary and just slow you down (MTB different story of course). It took some getting used to drop bars but now I love it and I’ll never go back. The bike feels so fast and agile to me, while also being comfortable. I did swap the seat to a Selle Royal Respiro Moderate.

[BatBuckeye]

What is your budget?

How is your back? Determines if you would prefer road bike or hybrid.

[Wanderingwheelz]

I don't really understand the preference for straight bars over drops. Drops give you more options for hand position over long rides, as do some of the longer curved single-level bars. The bigger issue, I think, is handlebar height. Many manufacturers (or bike shops) cut the steerer tube too short, or put people on too-small bikes. Net result is the crouched racing position you see on TV that is wrong for most people.

Get a bike where the saddle and bar are roughly the same height.

Make sure the frame is big enough and get the saddle height and crank length set up properly.

Funny, I bought a road bike on the larger side of what is recommended, and I like the position and ease of riding it. Yet casual riders do look at it and say “that bike is too big for you”. I bought it at the top LBS in my area, and feel they sold me a good and appropriate bike for it’s intended purpose (longer faster rides).

I also have smaller bikes (mtn and hybrid) with flat handlebars but added handlebar extenders to give me more grip angles too. Sometimes in shorter rides I like sitting upright, go slower but always good to have options on the handlebar.

Much like “it’s easier to makes a firm mattress softer than a soft mattress firmer”, it’s much easier to make a smaller bike fit larger than it is a larger bike fit smaller.

It’s almost always advisable with a bike to buy the smallest one you feel comfortable on, and then if need be buy a longer stem, maybe add spacers to get your hands higher or even a seat post with setback to stretch you out even more.

With my current “nice” bike I could have gone 56 or 58, and I actually felt a little better on the 58 during the short test ride at the shop, but I stuck with the old adage above and went with a 56. I’m glad I did since I’ve got several thousand miles on it and only put a couple of spacers under the stem to dial it in.

It’s advisable to ignore the “suggested” frame size info that most bike manufacturers websites will spit out once you put in your stats. It often gives too large of a recommendation.

[SpaghettiLegs]

Surprised that there isn’t more Boglehead recommendation to buy a used bike. As another has said, first nail down what size frame you need to ride and then the style of frame, sounds like you’ll be doing paved road riding, but a bigger tire gravel friendly frame will be more versatile if you want to expand your horizons and avoid traffic.

You can use an online fit calculator to get started, like this one.

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/Stor ... orBike.jsp

I enjoy the tinkering on my fleet of mostly older steel race bikes almost as much as the riding, so you can learn to do your maintenance.

https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help

These days the lower level groupsets are pretty reliable and easy to use. I am a Campagnolo guy, so not as familiar but Shimano Claris is budget friendly and Shimano 105 is probably the sweet spot for cost and reliability.

[beyou]

I don't really understand the preference for straight bars over drops. Drops give you more options for hand position over long rides, as do some of the longer curved single-level bars. The bigger issue, I think, is handlebar height. Many manufacturers (or bike shops) cut the steerer tube too short, or put people on too-small bikes. Net result is the crouched racing position you see on TV that is wrong for most people.

Get a bike where the saddle and bar are roughly the same height.

Make sure the frame is big enough and get the saddle height and crank length set up properly.

Funny, I bought a road bike on the larger side of what is recommended, and I like the position and ease of riding it. Yet casual riders do look at it and say “that bike is too big for you”. I bought it at the top LBS in my area, and feel they sold me a good and appropriate bike for it’s intended purpose (longer faster rides).

I also have smaller bikes (mtn and hybrid) with flat handlebars but added handlebar extenders to give me more grip angles too. Sometimes in shorter rides I like sitting upright, go slower but always good to have options on the handlebar.

Much like “it’s easier to makes a firm mattress softer than a soft mattress firmer”, it’s much easier to make a smaller bike fit larger than it is a larger bike fit smaller.

It’s almost always advisable with a bike to buy the smallest one you feel comfortable on, and then if need be buy a longer stem, maybe add spacers to get your hands higher or even a seat post with setback to stretch you out even more.

With my current “nice” bike I could have gone 56 or 58, and I actually felt a little better on the 58 during the short test ride at the shop, but I stuck with the old adage above and went with a 56. I’m glad I did since I’ve got several thousand miles on it and only put a couple of spacers under the stem to dial it in.

It’s advisable to ignore the “suggested” frame size info that most bike manufacturers websites will spit out once you put in your stats. It often gives too large of a recommendation.

How tall are you ?

[Wanderingwheelz]

I don't really understand the preference for straight bars over drops. Drops give you more options for hand position over long rides, as do some of the longer curved single-level bars. The bigger issue, I think, is handlebar height. Many manufacturers (or bike shops) cut the steerer tube too short, or put people on too-small bikes. Net result is the crouched racing position you see on TV that is wrong for most people.

Get a bike where the saddle and bar are roughly the same height.

Make sure the frame is big enough and get the saddle height and crank length set up properly.

Funny, I bought a road bike on the larger side of what is recommended, and I like the position and ease of riding it. Yet casual riders do look at it and say “that bike is too big for you”. I bought it at the top LBS in my area, and feel they sold me a good and appropriate bike for it’s intended purpose (longer faster rides).

I also have smaller bikes (mtn and hybrid) with flat handlebars but added handlebar extenders to give me more grip angles too. Sometimes in shorter rides I like sitting upright, go slower but always good to have options on the handlebar.

Much like “it’s easier to makes a firm mattress softer than a soft mattress firmer”, it’s much easier to make a smaller bike fit larger than it is a larger bike fit smaller.

It’s almost always advisable with a bike to buy the smallest one you feel comfortable on, and then if need be buy a longer stem, maybe add spacers to get your hands higher or even a seat post with setback to stretch you out even more.

With my current “nice” bike I could have gone 56 or 58, and I actually felt a little better on the 58 during the short test ride at the shop, but I stuck with the old adage above and went with a 56. I’m glad I did since I’ve got several thousand miles on it and only put a couple of spacers under the stem to dial it in.

It’s advisable to ignore the “suggested” frame size info that most bike manufacturers websites will spit out once you put in your stats. It often gives too large of a recommendation.

How tall are you ?

To be exact I’m 5’ 11.5” with a 32” inseam.

[CorgiGoneCycling]

I got a giant contend AR for around $1500 from my lbs.

Giant Contend is the right answer if you want new. It has endurance geometry (more relaxed than "racier" road bikes) that folks have advised you to pay attention to. You can also pay a few hundred more if you like the "cooler" (I do not subscribe to the groupthink here, I think Giant is great) brands which will have something highly similar (Specialized, Trek, BMC, etc.). The Contend even has reasonably skinny tubes to not offend your nostalgia.

Unfortunately, bike prices took a wild jump during the pandemic and, while they seem to be leveling off, have not come down. There is talk starting of a supply glut though, so you might be able to find a deal at a local shop. The current Contend model with 105 (11 speed) is $1950 -- this level has been recommended to you but is twice(!) your budget. The Sora (9 speed) would be a great choice ($1350) but please see my note below.

Here is info that might be important to you: Shimano is replacing every groupset level lower than 105 with CUES (probably model year 2025). There will be no more Tiagra, Sora, or Claris. While you still should be able to source parts for a long while, if I were making a long-term major purchase, this is something I would wait for.

In summary, if I were you I would:
1. Just get the 105 Contend, or equivalent, (if the difference (~600) is negligible with respect to your financial goals) because bikes are great and if getting something nice (and the 105 is very nice!) will encourage you to get out more it will likely be a net positive in your life. If you stick with it, the 105 is probably the level you will wish you had bought.
2. Buy something used cheap (couple hundred) to see if you stick with it then buy 105 Contend.
3. Wait for Shimano CUES to drop and purchase whatever Contend is around $1000 (the CUES groupsets will be the same design just different drivetrain speeds 9, 10, or 11)
4. Buy Sora Contend

Happy riding!

[CorgiGoneCycling]

find a good local bike shop (or a couple to shop around) and let them help you find the right bike, size, etc. and get it set up properly to fit you. Good brands are Specialized, Trek, Giant, Cannondale and many others. At that price level you want a good aluminum frame bike with entry to mid-level components. Electronic shifting is taking over but at that price you are probably still looking at mechanical shifting. 12 speed is common these days but you may save money with 11 speed. Two chainrings on the front will give you a nice gear range. Shopping at a good LBS will make sure you get a quality bike that fits you and is fit for what you want to do with it and importantly you will have ongoing service support. And usually they will have discounted accessories like helmets, etc. when you buy a bike.

John, while this is good info, I think you need to reconsider the budget of $1000. The cheapest 12 speed groupset (from the big 3) is more than $1000 (just for the groupset!). Even finding a new bike with 11 speed (from the big 3) is impossible at $1000 these days. Perhaps in your riding circles 12 speed is common but in the $1000 neighborhood (and the vast majority of bikes being ridden) I would not claim 12 speed is common. Same story for electronic vs mechanical -- the cheapest electronic groupset, by itself, is above $1000.

[emanuel_v19]

A lot of good post. I love bikes myself and if I was your age, I'd opt for 3 main things on bike. 1 - comfort 2 - Best components I can get for the money 3 - multipurpose.

Especially because you mention many things that make me believe you will fall in love with biking and possibly upgrade. Or even yet, start adding accessories to your bike. We all do Ding Ding!

I have the Kentfield 2. Light enough for me, 10spd(basically mtn bike gearing and I heard at one point Pivot bicyles were using the same drivetrain system), and one of the most comfortable, yet effective, bike you can buy atm.

https://www.marinbikes.com/bikes/use/hybrid

If you opt for a road bike, I'd stay away from 8 speed. 9 speed Sora is the bare minimum you should go for long term.

[jpelder]

I agree with everyone who suggested getting a fit from a local bike shop. Good fit is the most important thing for making your ride enjoyable.

I have a Trek FX (circa 2009), and the wife has a Liv (Giant) Alight (bought last month). Both are "hybrid" bikes, with flat handlebars, no suspension, and moderately skinny tires. Both cost in the range of $700 new. Something like that from one of the big brands (Trek, Giant, Specialized, Cannondale, etc.) is likely a good place to start for shopping purposes. Aluminum frame, rim brakes, 20ish gears, upright posture, lots of accessories available. They're good on pavement and ok on packed fine gravel.

I'm partial to mechanical rim brakes for casual riders, as they are easier to maintain and more durable than disc brakes, and the wet stopping advantage doesn't matter if you're only going to ride in good weather. Same feelings for hydraulic versus wire brakes. If you get more serious, then the advantages of wire disc brakes or even hydraulic disc brakes become more apparent.

[dbr]

One thing that might not be obvious to all regarding gear speeds is that typical bikes with an 11 speed cassette (rear wheel cogs) and two chain rings (front cogs) technically have 22 speeds, but those gear ratios overlap. The combination is for convenience in selecting how to ride at a moment and so that intermediate adjustments are easy to find. I would probably not say that this is truly a 22-speed bike.

The real issue is what is the range from highest to lowest and how far apart are the adjustments in between.

[Wanderingwheelz]

One thing that might not be obvious to all regarding gear speeds is that typical bikes with an 11 speed cassette (rear wheel cogs) and two chain rings (front cogs) technically have 22 speeds, but those gear ratios overlap. The combination is for convenience in selecting how to ride at a moment and so that intermediate adjustments are easy to find. I would probably not say that this is truly a 22-speed bike.

The real issue is what is the range from highest to lowest and how far apart are the adjustments in between.

What do you mean when you say that gears on a 22 speed bike overlap? Are you saying some of the 22 gears are the exact same?