Gardening 2023

[sevenseas]

I thought I'd kick things off for the 2023 gardening thread (I didn't see it, unless I missed it). Please include your gardening zone (and location if you're okay with that) as I find that helps others so much with planning, knowing what to expect when, etc.!

Zone 5B (Catskills)

In very early spring here. The first daffodils are starting to bloom, the trees have baby leaves, the lawn is greening up, and the perennials are just starting to emerge. I have done absolutely nothing in the yard and garden yet, except that this afternoon I cleaned up a few perennial beds. I have the day off tomorrow so will continue with spring cleaning, pruning, laying down crabgrass pre-emergent, and planting the first seeds in the raised beds (radishes, lettuce, turnips, peas). It will be balmy, in the 70s and maybe up to 80, the rest of the week which is insane, but par for the course these days.

Happy gardening!!

[jebmke]

Mid-Atlantic (coastal); I have no idea what zone. Daffos are long gone, redbuds and tulips out around here, marsh is starting to show some green-up. I've watched grass get cut two weeks in a row now.

[MP173]

Made my day to see this 2023 thread underway!

Zone 5B - NW Indiana.

Planted radish about 10 days ago...just broke ground over weekend.
Planted lettuce and spinach on 4/7 - not up yet.
Asparagus - 9 stalks! Earliest ever for us...bed is 9 years old.
Today planted 30 yellow onion sets and 5 kale plants (from seeds).
DW has about 20 tomato plants in various stages in her grow room, largest are about 15" tall. Pepper plants are 5" tall.

Today I harvested overwinter carrots...very tasty. Sorted good ones and blanched then froze.
Also have overwinter spinach we can harvest.

Have about 100 garlic plants - 4" leaves.

Also...mowed 1/2 the lawn today. Temps here to be in 70s all week till weekend then back to normal with highs in mid 50s.

Ed

[Glockenspiel]

Zone 4B - Minnesota metro area

Snow is finally all melted, temperatures hit 70 today, things are drying out from all the snow we had this winter. Grass and trees have not started growing yet. Will likely be beginning of May before we need to mow for the first time of the season. I'll wait a little for things to dry out more before cleaning up all perennials and shrubs.

[cs412a]

Also Zone 5b. I don't have a yard, but I just started spinach from seed in a planter on my terrace. First time growing spinach, so it will be a learning experience if nothing else.

[SimonJester]

Zone 5b just started carrots, lettuce, radish, parsley, cilantro in my covered hoop house

[homebuyer6426]

Zone 6. I started cucumber seedlings a couple weeks ago in peat pods and have potted them up into plastic disposable cups yesterday. In 2-4 more weeks they should be ready to get put into the raised bed and grow up a trellis.

Around now (the first warmth, before any flowers come out) is the perfect time to harvest anything in the cabbage family that overwintered, before it bolts and gets bitter. I harvested a head of kale yesterday for that reason. You can also look for any dandelions that haven't flowered - and you may be amazed that they have none of the bitterness that dandelions have for the entire rest of the year.

Cherry tomatoes are going to come up naturally from fallen seed. They are all over the place now. The fruit trees (apple, plum, cherry) are breaking buds. Our last freeze was this weekend, and there doesn't seem to be another in the long term forecast.

I'll be taking the rosemary, lavender, figs, lemons, and limes out of the greenhouse in the coming weeks.

[InMyDreams]

Just got the last blast of snow melted - went from snow fall to 70F in less than a week.

I had started snow peas in the house and planted them mid-March. They had a day or two of sunshine before we went back to snow. Most survived the rounds of snow that we've had, but they're shorter than the second round that I started in the house but couldn't plant in the snow!

Hoping the weather stays warm enough that I can plant the two green beans that sprouted in the house.

Crocus have started blooming. It's been a long winter.

[Elsebet]

I'm in 6b, in PA within walking distance of Lake Erie. I started my cherry & early girl tomatoes, jalapenos, and cucumbers yesterday. I will start butternut and summer squash in a few weeks. Need to pickup compost from our local recycling center this weekend to enrich the beds ahead of the sowing. I compost and make leaf mulch at home but it's not enough for my 9 beds!

[khangaroo]

Pacific Northwest, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USDA Zone 8b

Planted a lot of native plants 1-2 years ago and they're really starting to bloom. The shrubs are starting to leaf, especially the Red Flowering Currant which looks like it's about to flower in the next few weeks. Some of the trees are also starting to show their leaves like my Red Alder and Quaking Aspen; the Oregon White Oak is still snoozing with the buds tightly closed.

My pear trees have started to blossom but the cherry and fig trees have not opened their buds.

The ferns are starting to unfurl their fiddleheads but mostly just my maiden hairs while the other ferns (deer, sword, and giant chain) are still hugging close to the center.

I'm really looking forward to what my yard is going to look like in deep summer as I just recently got my backyard certified gold for a native habitat.

[Random Poster]

Zone 6b.

I can’t grow anything, no matter how hard I try to do so. I wish that I could, but I just don’t have the skills I guess.

Anyway, trees are starting up blossom.

And yesterday I removed two yucca plants that have been stabbing me every time I go near them. I hated those things so I’m glad that they are gone, but I broke a shovel in half during the removal.

[Nver2Late]

I've shoveled about 8 inches of snow the last two days and it is snowing right now. Winter does not want to give up.

Gardening is indoors at this point under growlights trying to make it to spring, but the longer days are hopeful.
Our lemon tree has had a rough winter with only 4 leaves left, but 5 ripening lemons! Hopefully the longer daylight will re-invigorate.
Started a Medjool date tree this winter, its about 4 inches tall at this point and looking good. Looking forward to fruit in about 5 years.
My avocado tree is now about 12 feet tall but still has maybe 8 to 10 years til fruit. Its entirely an indoor plant.
Herbs did awesome this winter, now switched to greens starts. Overwintered flowering plants are all growing and filling out under the lights and will hopefully be ready for the outdoors around mid-May. Last couple years the last frost has been earlier (mid-May), so hopeful to get outside about then. There has been years where the ground is still ice solid the first week of June. I think with the thick snow cover this year, the frost depth is likely lower and should thaw out a bit quicker.

Based on these posts, I just went and checked and yes, the tulips next to the foundation are starting to poke up through the snow!

[raveon]

Zone 9A (Sacramento region)

1. Plenty of rainfall and snow in California this year. Things are finally beginning to bloom with warmer weather arriving late this year. Grass/turf is lush green.

2. Last year, I installed a self-wicking raised garden bed I made from redwood. I will be planing carrots in it. My cherry tomatoes seeds are all grown and ready for transplanting, but still waiting for weather to cross 50 during the night before moving them out. I'm also attempting to grow Indian/Thai green chill from seeds but none have germinated (as they require 75+ temps). I will try again 1 month.

3. As far as the garden, plenty of violas, daffodils, snapdragons, daisies, million bells, gerbera daisym, geraniums, coral bells, primrose, salvia are already blooming. Floribunda roses should be coming out in full swing in 1 more month. My 2 Japanese maple treees are budding out now.

4. I have a 3rd japanese maple tree from seed that is in in 2nd year of growth. I'm also experimenting various succulents from seeds now. Not much luck with hens and chicks, but very easy to propagate echeveria varities from leaves.

5. Gardening is a low-maintenance activity now. Most of the flowers are perrenials and/or self-seeding. So now it is only pruning/clean-up, fertilizing, mulching ever year now.

6. Summer time, will just swap out some of the spring flowers with marigolds and zinnias and bring them back in fall/winter time.

[Conch55]

Prepping for 2023 in zone 7b with cucumber, squash and zucchini seeds already sprouted in small pots. Basil seeds are planted in a large pot but not much activity yet. Purchased several varieties of tomatoes and one sweet basil today. Hoping to put things in the ground the first week or two of May. It's been warm lately but we came off a late freeze so I am not rushing things. Best of luck to all!

[Onlineid3089]

Zone 5a. Only planted some potatoes so far. This year I'm trying the thing with the seed potato sitting on the ground with a cardboard box around it to hold the compost or mulch covering in place. Last year I tried just mounding the compost but still ended up with exposed potatoes due to rain and watering as the year went on. Definitely nice not having to dig the potatoes though.

We haven't really talked about what else we'll do this year. There will be at least a couple plants each of tomatoes and bell peppers and a row or two of onions. I'm sure DW will want to plant something from Vietnam again that won't produce anything in our climate Oh well, we have more than enough space for our needs.

[MP173]

What a difference one week makes. Last Monday was the beginning of a stretch of 70-80 degree days. Today it snowed.

It was a productive week at Fort Potato...harvested and ate asparagus, also harvested over winter spinach for a hot bacon dressing salad Saturday (very tasty).

Also planted last week:
3 kale transplants
1 cabbage transplant
6 romaine lettuce transplant (from Home Depot)
30 Leek plants
46 Patterson yellow onion plants.

Snap peas are coming up and asparagus keeps popping thru the ground.

It should warm up later in the week with more onions and leek plants going inground. BTW...I purchase leeks and onion plants (about 4" tall) from Dixondale Farms. A bundle will have about 80 small plants. Also have shallots on backorder if they are available.

Ed

[tmp123]

I am in Zone 7, I have mowed 5 times already. I have put out pre-emergent 2 times already to prevent weeds from an adjacent hay field and neighbors who love their weeds. Things are good so far. I just replaced 6 shrubs at my mom's that died from an unusual -4 degrees in southeast Tennessee,I have 6 shrubs to replace myself.

[hudson]

7B
Continuous garden since 1976; I'm on my 3rd tiller.
Average date of last frost is about April 15.
Asparagus is going strong; have eaten 4 meals.
My new Asparagus patch has ferns 1-2 feet high.
I won't plant tomatoes, peppers, squash, cukes, and okra until after May 1. I've never had a frost problem after May 1.
I learned the hard way...several times. I usually get a tomato on July 4.
The garden spot has been tilled twice, but it looks rock hard after 4 inches of rain.
Fruit trees and grape vines have small leaves.
I've sprayed the oriental pear trees 3-4 times to try and prevent fire blight; that usually does the trick.
I keep planting American Persimmons hoping to get a female tree and get persimmons. I think that I'm 6 males with zero females. I have a female that I planted from seeds decades ago that delivers enough for one persimmon pudding if I can beat the deer. The area around the tree has grown up and blocks the sun.

[sevenseas]

I find it just fascinating to get a glimpse into everyone else's gardening lives, especially as the seasons progress. What you are planting when, the challenges that you face in your area, what plants succeed in your zone, etc.

As a zone 5b resident, I have a relatively slow start, and an early finish, compared to others. I won't really be planting the bulk of my vegetable and annual flower garden until mid-May, and will expect my first beefsteak tomato by late July or early August (so late!). I went to grad school in Northern CA (zone 9b), and that was gardening paradise (at least 20 years ago when there were no water restrictions). Spring started in mid-March and the warm growing season lasted straight into November. Here in the Hudson Valley of New York, I deal with heavy deer pressure, fungal diseases, and cold winters. In California, it was hard water, drought, and slugs! I miss the hybrid tea roses, citrus, and sub-tropicals that I used to grow there, but on the other hand, can now grow tulips, lilacs and Japanese maples.

[sevenseas]

Zone 6b.

I can’t grow anything, no matter how hard I try to do so. I wish that I could, but I just don’t have the skills I guess.

I don't know that gardening takes any unique skill, other than knowing what the right plant is for the right place, and knowing its particular needs (water, light, nutrients). Sometimes trying "too hard", in and of itself, can be the problem (e.g. overwatering, as one example...all my friends who claim to have no green thumb actually are "killing their plants with kindness"...not saying this your problem necessarily though!) There are all sorts of plants that are easy for a beginner; maybe it's just a matter of learning which ones to try first, and building from there.

If you have a local agricultural extension in your area, that might be a great place to take some introductory classes. E.g. I'm signed up for a Garden Day in my area for later this month, a day full of classes of all sorts (vegetable and flower gardening, pruning, lawn care, xeriscaping, etc.). Stick with it!!! If you are smart enough to take charge of your own financial life, you can figure this gardening thing out. It's so worth the effort!

[Mr. Rumples]

It was a warm winter; already the Cardoon is starting to form flowers. It's an interesting plant if one can find it. Bees love it. It's hardy in zone 7 and it's not been invasive in my garden. https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/article ... rdunculus/

[Elsebet]

I am going to transfer my tomato, cucumber, and pepper seedlings to bigger pots this weekend. Then I will start some butternut squash seedlings. I hope it warms up enough by Mother's Day to put everything out in my raised beds.

Already eating some asparagus out of my beds, yum!

[MikeWillRetire]

Zone 7a in the Balto-DC metro area. I have been using the square foot gardening method for the last 15 years. I basically have three 4'x4' raised beds contained within a 10'x20' hoophouse designed to keep out animals. I learned early on that animals were the biggest threat to my garden.

I concentrate on growing what grows easiest here without using pesticides. For example, I don't try to grow broccoli, cauliflower, or other brassicas because we have an abundance of white butterflies that result in cabbage worms.

I direct seed most of my garden. Right now, I have radishes, snap peas, carrots, lettuce, chard, and onions. Later on I will plant cucumbers, cantalopes, and beans. I am fortunate to have a nearby greenhouse where I buy my tomato and pepper transplants.

Happy gardening!

[LifeIsGood]

I got some Sweet Prince tomato seeds from Row Seven - a company featured on the Sunday Morning TV show with Jane Pauley. I started the seeds in an Aero Garden hydroponic unit and they did fantastic. After several re-pottings in successively larger containers they were blossoming and producing fruit. As soon as they temperatures warmed up they were going outside into my garden. Then the bottom fell out. I received an email from Row Seven saying that some of their tomato seeds were infected with the Tomato Brown Rugose Fruit Virus. Their recommendation was to destroy all plants and discard soil and containers. Apparently this virus is pretty contagious and difficult to treat or kill. I'm so disappointed !!! All that time and effort wasted.

[3hrs]

Zone 4b. Garlic is about 8", last year's kale has leafed out enough to add to salads, and today will be the first asparagus harvest. Tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, basil, coleus and zinnias were seeded last month into cardboard egg cartons, then transferred two weeks later into homemade newspaper pots. Currently under grow lights waiting to transplant into the garden June 1. Today I seeded lettuce, spinach, beets and radishes. This year's big change is a huge sturdy deer proof garden fence DH built to surround the vegetable beds. No more spraying the vegetables to keep the deer away.

[k3vb0t]

Zone 7a.

Got two 4x10 beds. One for spinach, lettuce, and small green onions. Plant half the bed with greens every 2 weeks and eat salad most of the year. Other bed is for bell pepper, sweet pepper, jalapenos, tomatoes, basil, and cucumber.

Got into gardening during the pandemic and absolutely love it. Very "zen" to see something you built, filled with compost, and seeded turn into the freshest food you could ever get.

Anyone have experience building a DIY drip irrigation system? Would like to stop having to use the garden hose to do it, set it up on a timer, etc.

[jebmke]

Hummingbird garden is going in this afternoon. I've held off until the cold nights are over - we seem to have had a lingering early spring.

[Kenkat]

Zone 6a here. We will probably buy tomato plants and maybe a few peppers to be planted within the next week as the danger of frost has passed at this point here in SW Ohio. We will also try some string beans from seed as my son had great luck with these last year. Maybe some squash, gourds and cucumbers as well. We planted a white dogwood just this morning at the edge of the wooded area in our backyard. We’ve been looking for one for awhile and found a beautiful little one at Tractor Supply. We’d like to add a pink dogwood as well but they can be difficult to find without spending a lot of money at a nursery.

[tunafish]

Zone 6b.

I can’t grow anything, no matter how hard I try to do so. I wish that I could, but I just don’t have the skills I guess.

Anyway, trees are starting up blossom.

And yesterday I removed two yucca plants that have been stabbing me every time I go near them. I hated those things so I’m glad that they are gone, but I broke a shovel in half during the removal.

Zone 6B
Throw some Milorganite where you're trying to plant. I had a dead zone for several years where some arborvitae(gak) had been removed. Nothing grew there,not even weeds. I had some MIlorganite left over from something or other, so I used it up as a thin layer on the dead zone, now it grows everyhing that crosses its mind. I finally got to planting pollinator garden plants there and they are thriving.

[wolf359]

Zone 7a.

Got two 4x10 beds. One for spinach, lettuce, and small green onions. Plant half the bed with greens every 2 weeks and eat salad most of the year. Other bed is for bell pepper, sweet pepper, jalapenos, tomatoes, basil, and cucumber.

Got into gardening during the pandemic and absolutely love it. Very "zen" to see something you built, filled with compost, and seeded turn into the freshest food you could ever get.

Anyone have experience building a DIY drip irrigation system? Would like to stop having to use the garden hose to do it, set it up on a timer, etc.

I did a drip irrigation system for 7 years, tore it out to reset it but lived without it for 3-4 years, and just set one up again this year.

The best way to get started is to get a pre-built kit that covers your area. This gives you all the basics for the hookup. As you use that, you learn how it works, and it is then easy to expand.

Build zones based on water usage requirements. Certain vegetables prefer to dry out between waterings. Others need lots of water. Bushes have different requirements. Potted plants may need watering most frequently.

I started out with one zone, then did multiple zones the next year. The old timer I used before has been replaced with a fancy internet-connected B-Hyve model. But you don't need to start with anything fancy. A simple automated hose timer is good enough.

[k3vb0t]

I did a drip irrigation system for 7 years, tore it out to reset it but lived without it for 3-4 years, and just set one up again this year.

The best way to get started is to get a pre-built kit that covers your area. This gives you all the basics for the hookup. As you use that, you learn how it works, and it is then easy to expand.

Build zones based on water usage requirements. Certain vegetables prefer to dry out between waterings. Others need lots of water. Bushes have different requirements. Potted plants may need watering most frequently.

I started out with one zone, then did multiple zones the next year. The old timer I used before has been replaced with a fancy internet-connected B-Hyve model. But you don't need to start with anything fancy. A simple automated hose timer is good enough.

Any recommended kits to start with? I was looking at Drip Depot earlier. Thanks for the advice. Definitely makes sense on the potted plants needing the most.

[sevenseas]

Anyone have experience building a DIY drip irrigation system? Would like to stop having to use the garden hose to do it, set it up on a timer, etc.

I put together a DIY irrigation system (soaker hoses) for my six raised garden beds last year and they worked well. The product was Snip-n-Drip system, bought from Gardeners' Supply Company. It was straightforward; the hardest part was calculating the length needed (of soaker hoses and connector hoses) and number of connectors. I bought a separate hose to run from the spigot, and a timer from the local nursery. The production I got from the beds was exponentially more than when I was hand watering, and I also didn't have to worry when I was away from home.

I'd read that leaving these outside over the winter would lead to more rapid deterioration of the soaker hoses/connectors, so stored them in my garage. I haven't set them out yet this year but don't anticipate that I will have issues.

[jebmke]

Zone 6b.

I can’t grow anything, no matter how hard I try to do so. I wish that I could, but I just don’t have the skills I guess.

Anyway, trees are starting up blossom.

And yesterday I removed two yucca plants that have been stabbing me every time I go near them. I hated those things so I’m glad that they are gone, but I broke a shovel in half during the removal.

Zone 6B
Throw some Milorganite where you're trying to plant. I had a dead zone for several years where some arborvitae(gak) had been removed. Nothing grew there,not even weeds. I had some MIlorganite left over from something or other, so I used it up as a thin layer on the dead zone, now it grows everyhing that crosses its mind. I finally got to planting pollinator garden plants there and they are thriving.

I did the same thing. After removing a lot of trees and having stumps ground, I dosed the stump holes with lime and Milorganite before they were capped with soil. I still treat the area heavily with Milorganite every year since the decaying roots etc. will continue to suck up nutrients.

[dogbones]

Zone 6b.

I can’t grow anything, no matter how hard I try to do so. I wish that I could, but I just don’t have the skills I guess.

Anyway, trees are starting up blossom.

And yesterday I removed two yucca plants that have been stabbing me every time I go near them. I hated those things so I’m glad that they are gone, but I broke a shovel in half during the removal.

This is me too. I'm 6b and can't make anything stick. I'm doing my basics - cherry tomatoes, basil, oregano, and we'll see if anything else wants to survive this year

[eob616]

Zone 7a, DMV. I garden in raised beds in a community garden. Timing for the spring was tricky with lingering cold snaps, and then a lack of rain, but things have picked up in the last week or two.

My first experiment this year was trying to figure out timing for spring planting, especially to get some harvests in before brassicas in particular start hardcore bolting. Results:

• Still haven't figured out planting schedule for spring peas
• Rapini did decent this year, but some still bolting
• Have some stunning komatsuna and chijimisai...and grapefruit-sized turnips, all started indoors
• Red Russian kale continues to overwinter beautifully for me; I need to plant more this fall so I have more early harvesting options in April. Need to harvest before insect pressure kicks in (which is nowish).
• I've enjoyed using milk jugs for winter sowing the last couple years--planting around January, then transplanting when they've germinated and grown a bit. It's worked best with lettuce and chard; kale just behind it. The other brassicas need more of a head start to get anything going before bolting, I've decided.

Started tomatoes way too early indoors and they're far too tall. I finally got them and eggplant outdoors yesterday to start hardening off; will plant out 5/13.

[wolf359]

I did a drip irrigation system for 7 years, tore it out to reset it but lived without it for 3-4 years, and just set one up again this year.

The best way to get started is to get a pre-built kit that covers your area. This gives you all the basics for the hookup. As you use that, you learn how it works, and it is then easy to expand.

Build zones based on water usage requirements. Certain vegetables prefer to dry out between waterings. Others need lots of water. Bushes have different requirements. Potted plants may need watering most frequently.

I started out with one zone, then did multiple zones the next year. The old timer I used before has been replaced with a fancy internet-connected B-Hyve model. But you don't need to start with anything fancy. A simple automated hose timer is good enough.

Any recommended kits to start with? I was looking at Drip Depot earlier. Thanks for the advice. Definitely makes sense on the potted plants needing the most.

I don't really have a recommendation on a specific kit. I have purchased from Drip Depot, and had good experience with them. I've also bought products from DIG, RainBird, RainDrip, and Dripworks over the years. More recently I have started replacing some of the core components with brass rather than plastic. All have some version of kits as well as selling individual components.

So far, I have been able to mix and match products, and everything has been interchangeable. I have not used driptape or and inline emitters tended to clog more for me.

Therefore, look at your specific requirements for containers, bushes/trees, and garden layouts, and see if a kit is available which contains most of the pieces. I'd stay away from the no-name chinese manufacturers on Amazon until you know what you're doing. The brand names I listed above are all great. Orbit is probably good as well -- I'm using their timers, but just never tried out their drip irrigation line.

[wolf359]

Started tomatoes way too early indoors and they're far too tall. I finally got them and eggplant outdoors yesterday to start hardening off; will plant out 5/13.

Tomatoes that are too tall is a good problem to have. What you do is to plant them sideways, burying 2/3 of the plant. Strip off the leaves and branches of the parts that are underground. The top will look angled, but will straighten itself up on its own as it follows the sun.

The buried stem that is in contact with dirt will generate roots, and the end result will be a plant with a much larger root system than normal. Eventually it will be much more productive and grow larger than a tomato plant that doesn't use this technique.

[wolf359]

Zone 6b.

I can’t grow anything, no matter how hard I try to do so. I wish that I could, but I just don’t have the skills I guess.

Anyway, trees are starting up blossom.

And yesterday I removed two yucca plants that have been stabbing me every time I go near them. I hated those things so I’m glad that they are gone, but I broke a shovel in half during the removal.

This is me too. I'm 6b and can't make anything stick. I'm doing my basics - cherry tomatoes, basil, oregano, and we'll see if anything else wants to survive this year

When I first started, I had my most success by:

1) Picking plants that are essentially weeds. For example, dill weed is (surprise!) a weed. So is mint.
2) Planting edible landscaping. It's easier to grow a fruit tree or a blueberry bush. They're simply there year after year. Raspberry and Blackberries meet the definition of #1 and #2 simultaneously. Before you plant, you have to have a plan to contain them and STOP them from taking over your whole yard (opposite problem of not being able to grow anything.)
3) Try growing something in a pot or container. A self-watering container is best. That way you can make sure the soil is good and the watering is reliable. Try growing potatoes in a grow bag. This combines #1 and #3.
4) Pole beans grow in poor soil. Summer squash essentially grows itself (and crushes everything else in the garden.)
5) Strawberries are very forgiving. You can grow large numbers in stackable towers, or you can tuck them under existing bushes where they'll spread out and become an edible ground cover.
6) Raised bed gardens allow you to control the soil. It's better than gardening directly at surface level.
7) Automate as much as you can. Hose water timers and drip irrigation systems were a game changer. When first getting started you don't need to be fancy, you just need to be reliable. Self-watering containers and hose water timers are good enough.

[Conch55]

Prepping for 2023 in zone 7b with cucumber, squash and zucchini seeds already sprouted in small pots. Basil seeds are planted in a large pot but not much activity yet. Purchased several varieties of tomatoes and one sweet basil today. Hoping to put things in the ground the first week or two of May. It's been warm lately but we came off a late freeze so I am not rushing things. Best of luck to all!

Followup on my 2023 garden progress - May 8 put tomatoes, cucumber, squash, zucchini, eggplant, bell and jalapeno peppers in the ground and Thai and sweet basil in pots.

[MP173]

Northwest Indiana zone 5b

Eating asparagus regularly now. Big batch for tonight's meal in fact. Also a spinach salad (overwinter).

My potatoes are in the ground.

Lettuce and arugala are growing as are snap peas. Kale and broccoli looking very strong.

Tomato plants will go in the ground this week...we have San Marzano and an heirloom (both from seeds) about 18" tall and ready to go. Pole beans will be planted soon. Holding off on peppers for another week.

Will probably plant popcorn later this week.

Garlic is about 12" tall and looking good.

Fertilized onions and leeks today with combo of blood meal and bone meal...first time doing that, hoping to grow larger onions this year. Shallot transplants were not available...i planted seeds, now coming up.

All in all things in good shape.

Ed

[FunnelCakeBob]

SF Bay Area - Zone 10a

Slowly inching back to gardening 2nd year after leaving yard dormant for the 5 previous years. The fava beans planted late 2022 are doing gangbusters and attracting all sorts of pollinators. They should be ready for picking in a week. The cilantro plants were small and sad but really grew the last month. The green onions are doing great and putting out scape. The artichoke that I neglected and didn't water the last 5 years is producing right on schedule. I should have split it this winter because the root is now putting out 5 separate plants.

I tried starting seeds in ground back in March but that was apparently too cold or wet even for lettuce and bok choy. The only plants that germinated lately in the ground were arugula and radish. So I'm primarily starting seeds indoors with starter trays and egg cartons:

Tomatoes (should be going in the ground this month once I've cleared the spot)
Kale (Dazzling Blue got transplanted in the ground over the weekend, with some broccoli. Got 2 other varieties waiting in the wing to clear the yard.)
Basil (The seedlings are still tiny but will follow the tomatoes. Got 3 types: Cardinal, Sweet Thai, and Lettuce Leaf)
Tatsoi (Going into the ground as soon as each seed germinates because cool season is about to end)
Shallot onions (Seedlings just went in the ground.)
Broccoli raab (Ready to be transplanted this weekend)
Peppers (Still tiny in the trays and waiting for warm weather. Got 4 types: Shishito, Murasaki, Habanada, and Jigsaw)
Cucumbers (Just planted seeds with pole beans)
Greek oregano and lemongrass (No having luck germinating the seeds. Will keep trying.)
Stevia (1 tiny seedling out of 8 attempts)
Thyme (Seedlings are still small and will go with the tomatoes.)
Marigolds and carnations (Seedlings are ready to be transplanted.)

I'm waiting for the days to warm up and clearing more yard to plant the following:
Sweet corn
Okra
Summer and winter squash
Sunflowers
Watermelon

Upcoming weekend is dedicated to clearing out the weeds and hacking down more of the morning glory vines.

[eob616]

Tomatoes that are too tall is a good problem to have. What you do is to plant them sideways, burying 2/3 of the plant. Strip off the leaves and branches of the parts that are underground. The top will look angled, but will straighten itself up on its own as it follows the sun.

Yup, planning on this! As you say, a good problem to have.

[wolf359]

I'm trying to plant a fig tree this year. It's the Chicago Hardy, which is supposed to be good down to zone 5 (I'm in Northern Virginia, zone 7a).

I'm expecting it to be messy in the Fall, and aggressive with the roots, so I'm planting it well away from the house. Any other advice?

No idea if this will work out. Anyone have experience with figs directly in the ground?

[dogbones]

Zone 6b.

I can’t grow anything, no matter how hard I try to do so. I wish that I could, but I just don’t have the skills I guess.

Anyway, trees are starting up blossom.

And yesterday I removed two yucca plants that have been stabbing me every time I go near them. I hated those things so I’m glad that they are gone, but I broke a shovel in half during the removal.

This is me too. I'm 6b and can't make anything stick. I'm doing my basics - cherry tomatoes, basil, oregano, and we'll see if anything else wants to survive this year

When I first started, I had my most success by:

1) Picking plants that are essentially weeds. For example, dill weed is (surprise!) a weed. So is mint.
2) Planting edible landscaping. It's easier to grow a fruit tree or a blueberry bush. They're simply there year after year. Raspberry and Blackberries meet the definition of #1 and #2 simultaneously. Before you plant, you have to have a plan to contain them and STOP them from taking over your whole yard (opposite problem of not being able to grow anything.)
3) Try growing something in a pot or container. A self-watering container is best. That way you can make sure the soil is good and the watering is reliable. Try growing potatoes in a grow bag. This combines #1 and #3.
4) Pole beans grow in poor soil. Summer squash essentially grows itself (and crushes everything else in the garden.)
5) Strawberries are very forgiving. You can grow large numbers in stackable towers, or you can tuck them under existing bushes where they'll spread out and become an edible ground cover.
6) Raised bed gardens allow you to control the soil. It's better than gardening directly at surface level.
7) Automate as much as you can. Hose water timers and drip irrigation systems were a game changer. When first getting started you don't need to be fancy, you just need to be reliable. Self-watering containers and hose water timers are good enough.

This is great info thank you! I do parsley and basil in pots, oregano is growing like weeds in ground which I love I recognize my lack of patience, then equals frustration. But growing up in a gardening home you'd think I know better. We had the automatic growths - blackberry, last year's tomatoes, etc. It was so much easier watching than doing I love the idea of a raised garden but need to plan that well. The space in our yard (shaded woods at elevation with one good area of all day sunlight) is sloped and full of rocks (another issue). Husband installed popup drains connecting from the downspouts just a few inches outside our now garden, I think we'll expand that to allow the rain water to flow through as an irrigation system!

[WoostaGal]

Zone 6a. Haven't planted anything yet. Just retired and getting the yard neatened up. I have three very large trees in my smallish yard and three compost bins. I moved two of the bins underneath two of my trees and am transferring the compost to those bins from the third, active compost bin which has been collecting kitchen scraps over the winter. My plan is to use these two bins during the summer when I don't have to trudge through snow to get to them. And I don't plan to turn the compost much, just water occasionally and allow the trees to use the nutrients since they always put their roots into the bottom of my compost bins. Since I'm heading into my senior years, I'm trying to set my yard up so there is less manual labor to maintain it. The third bin I need to put someplace where it will be accessible in the winter. Haven't identified the right spot yet since areas that are most accessible are places where I would be shoveling snow.

[WhyNotUs]

Zone 5B. We will probably have at least one more freeze and/or snow. Hardening starters for Memorial Day planting.
Picking first spinach and have lettuce, kale, and second batch of spinach just coming up.
It has been such a long winter, I am a little concerned about planting more.

[Nver2Late]

Zone 4B. Hit lower 50's this weekend. Planted peas. Have starts ready and starting to harden off.

We did have frost on the roofs one day last week, but I'm hopeful we are now past it. No tulip flowers this year - Moose ate them last week. Still waiting for the last remaining snow piles to melt away.

[8301]

SF Bay Area - Zone 10a

Slowly inching back to gardening 2nd year after leaving yard dormant for the 5 previous years. The fava beans planted late 2022 are doing gangbusters and attracting all sorts of pollinators. They should be ready for picking in a week. The cilantro plants were small and sad but really grew the last month. The green onions are doing great and putting out scape. The artichoke that I neglected and didn't water the last 5 years is producing right on schedule. I should have split it this winter because the root is now putting out 5 separate plants.

I tried starting seeds in ground back in March but that was apparently too cold or wet even for lettuce and bok choy. The only plants that germinated lately in the ground were arugula and radish. So I'm primarily starting seeds indoors with starter trays and egg cartons:

Tomatoes (should be going in the ground this month once I've cleared the spot)
Kale (Dazzling Blue got transplanted in the ground over the weekend, with some broccoli. Got 2 other varieties waiting in the wing to clear the yard.)
Basil (The seedlings are still tiny but will follow the tomatoes. Got 3 types: Cardinal, Sweet Thai, and Lettuce Leaf)
Tatsoi (Going into the ground as soon as each seed germinates because cool season is about to end)
Shallot onions (Seedlings just went in the ground.)
Broccoli raab (Ready to be transplanted this weekend)
Peppers (Still tiny in the trays and waiting for warm weather. Got 4 types: Shishito, Murasaki, Habanada, and Jigsaw)
Cucumbers (Just planted seeds with pole beans)
Greek oregano and lemongrass (No having luck germinating the seeds. Will keep trying.)
Stevia (1 tiny seedling out of 8 attempts)
Thyme (Seedlings are still small and will go with the tomatoes.)
Marigolds and carnations (Seedlings are ready to be transplanted.)

I'm waiting for the days to warm up and clearing more yard to plant the following:
Sweet corn
Okra
Summer and winter squash
Sunflowers
Watermelon

Upcoming weekend is dedicated to clearing out the weeds and hacking down more of the morning glory vines.

Our tomatoes are over one foot tall. Is the soil mostly clay? If yes, how do you deal with it?

[FunnelCakeBob]

Our tomatoes are over one foot tall. Is the soil mostly clay? If yes, how do you deal with it?

Soil in the plot for the tomatoes is clay-ish, as the entire yard. Haven't grown a thing there for about 8 years and just cleared the weeds last year. Will add compost from fava beans, cucumber and carrot peels, crushed eggshells, and chicken manure to amend soil texture and attract earthworms and beneficial microbes.

How do you get the tomatoes so tall this early? Did you start from seeds or got starter plants? What zone?

[protagonist]

This may be the most important gardening advice that can be summed up in two words:

AVOID BAMBOO!!!!