Replacing bathroom sink faucets

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Topic Author
September
Posts: 265
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 9:40 am

Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by September »

I planned to do a complete bathroom remodel since I bought my house but still haven't gotten to it. Now that due to the pandemic caused supply-chain issues, I decided to wait it out but just replacing the bathroom sink faucets instead. I have 4 inch, three holes double handle faucets and I am thinking of replacing those with Costco's Kohler Transitional Single Control Faucet
https://www.costco.com/kohler-transitio ... 07471.html
These are on sale now for $80

This faucet has single-hole or 4in center installations and has the 1.2 GPM

1) Is this a decent faucet if I were to replace the vanity and vanity tops later?
2) The faucets now all have 1.2 GPM. My old ones (20 years) might have higher GPM. Is this of concern?

Thanks!
Last edited by September on Sat Nov 27, 2021 2:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
twh
Posts: 1754
Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2020 2:15 pm

Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by twh »

Looks fine.
My advice on plumbing fixtures...
Major brand and not an off brand - you will need a part at some point.
Faucets must have ceramic disc valves - this will basically last longer and leak less.
Hook up the faucet/valve with a real copper/chrome-plated riser and you won't have a leak in the future.
Topic Author
September
Posts: 265
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 9:40 am

Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by September »

twh wrote: Sat Nov 27, 2021 2:43 pm Looks fine.
My advice on plumbing fixtures...
Major brand and not an off brand - you will need a part at some point.
Faucets must have ceramic disc valves - this will basically last longer and leak less.
Hook up the faucet/valve with a real copper/chrome-plated riser and you won't have a leak in the future.
Thanks for your quick reply! Regarding the "real copper/chrome-plated riser", it seems that plumbers now use the braided polymer faucet connectors and no one uses copper risers any more. The braided polymer faucet connectors are rated much higher than the copper risers at Homedepot and Lowes. I recently have a plumber replaced my kitchen sink and he replaced my old copper risers with the new braided polymer faucet connectors. With polymer connectors, it's much easy to do the installation for one hole kitchen faucet. If I choose to use copper riser, I might need to buy two handle faucets.
mcgarrett
Posts: 117
Joined: Wed May 16, 2007 12:42 pm

Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by mcgarrett »

I am also considering faucet replacement for double sinks in my master bath. Can you give me an idea about what the cost might be above the cost of the hardware? I am not experienced enough with plumbing to try to remove the old faucets and install the replacements myself. So I think it would be necessary for me to have a plumber do the work (unless YouTube can walk me through it step-by-step!).
twh
Posts: 1754
Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2020 2:15 pm

Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by twh »

September wrote: Sat Nov 27, 2021 5:41 pm
twh wrote: Sat Nov 27, 2021 2:43 pm Looks fine.
My advice on plumbing fixtures...
Major brand and not an off brand - you will need a part at some point.
Faucets must have ceramic disc valves - this will basically last longer and leak less.
Hook up the faucet/valve with a real copper/chrome-plated riser and you won't have a leak in the future.
Thanks for your quick reply! Regarding the "real copper/chrome-plated riser", it seems that plumbers now use the braided polymer faucet connectors and no one uses copper risers any more. The braided polymer faucet connectors are rated much higher than the copper risers at Homedepot and Lowes. I recently have a plumber replaced my kitchen sink and he replaced my old copper risers with the new braided polymer faucet connectors. With polymer connectors, it's much easy to do the installation for one hole kitchen faucet. If I choose to use copper riser, I might need to buy two handle faucets.
Copper risers are superior to anything else. Yes, they take more time, but not much more. But, as you note some faucets these days won't take them. If you have a choice a copper riser will never rupture.
Topic Author
September
Posts: 265
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 9:40 am

Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by September »

mcgarrett wrote: Sat Nov 27, 2021 6:35 pm I am also considering faucet replacement for double sinks in my master bath. Can you give me an idea about what the cost might be above the cost of the hardware? I am not experienced enough with plumbing to try to remove the old faucets and install the replacements myself. So I think it would be necessary for me to have a plumber do the work (unless YouTube can walk me through it step-by-step!).
My local Lowes store charges $139 for installation a bathroom faucet. If you want to save money, you can find some handymen from Nextdoor (nextdoor.com) that could do the job for less. This is what I did with my kitchen sink installation.
Topic Author
September
Posts: 265
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 9:40 am

Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by September »

twh wrote: Sat Nov 27, 2021 7:36 pm
September wrote: Sat Nov 27, 2021 5:41 pm
twh wrote: Sat Nov 27, 2021 2:43 pm Looks fine.
My advice on plumbing fixtures...
Major brand and not an off brand - you will need a part at some point.
Faucets must have ceramic disc valves - this will basically last longer and leak less.
Hook up the faucet/valve with a real copper/chrome-plated riser and you won't have a leak in the future.
Thanks for your quick reply! Regarding the "real copper/chrome-plated riser", it seems that plumbers now use the braided polymer faucet connectors and no one uses copper risers any more. The braided polymer faucet connectors are rated much higher than the copper risers at Homedepot and Lowes. I recently have a plumber replaced my kitchen sink and he replaced my old copper risers with the new braided polymer faucet connectors. With polymer connectors, it's much easy to do the installation for one hole kitchen faucet. If I choose to use copper riser, I might need to buy two handle faucets.
Copper risers are superior to anything else. Yes, they take more time, but not much more. But, as you note some faucets these days won't take them. If you have a choice a copper riser will never rupture.
The one handle faucet with single hole cannot fit two copper risers (hot & cold). If I were to use copper riser, I have to buy two handle faucet. If you check products on facucet supply lines on Lowes or Homedepot, the best sellers are all braided stainless steel. My current bathroom faucets use copper risers, and the shut off valve is made of copper as well. Due to its age, the shut off valve is no longer functioning.
criticalmass
Posts: 2839
Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2014 9:58 pm

Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by criticalmass »

September wrote: Sat Nov 27, 2021 8:20 pm
twh wrote: Sat Nov 27, 2021 7:36 pm
September wrote: Sat Nov 27, 2021 5:41 pm
twh wrote: Sat Nov 27, 2021 2:43 pm Looks fine.
My advice on plumbing fixtures...
Major brand and not an off brand - you will need a part at some point.
Faucets must have ceramic disc valves - this will basically last longer and leak less.
Hook up the faucet/valve with a real copper/chrome-plated riser and you won't have a leak in the future.
Thanks for your quick reply! Regarding the "real copper/chrome-plated riser", it seems that plumbers now use the braided polymer faucet connectors and no one uses copper risers any more. The braided polymer faucet connectors are rated much higher than the copper risers at Homedepot and Lowes. I recently have a plumber replaced my kitchen sink and he replaced my old copper risers with the new braided polymer faucet connectors. With polymer connectors, it's much easy to do the installation for one hole kitchen faucet. If I choose to use copper riser, I might need to buy two handle faucets.
Copper risers are superior to anything else. Yes, they take more time, but not much more. But, as you note some faucets these days won't take them. If you have a choice a copper riser will never rupture.
The one handle faucet with single hole cannot fit two copper risers (hot & cold). If I were to use copper riser, I have to buy two handle faucet. If you check products on facucet supply lines on Lowes or Homedepot, the best sellers are all braided stainless steel. My current bathroom faucets use copper risers, and the shut off valve is made of copper as well. Due to its age, the shut off valve is no longer functioning.
Replace that shut off with a quarter turn valve. You will be much happier with a valve that will work when you really need it to work.
twh
Posts: 1754
Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2020 2:15 pm

Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by twh »

September wrote: Sat Nov 27, 2021 8:20 pm Due to its age, the shut off valve is no longer functioning.
More than likely the washer is disintegrated. One popular brand of shutoff valve is Brasscraft. If that's what you have, buy a new one from Home Depot and take out the stem and replace that in the old one. Other brands will be similar if you can identify the brand.
sschoe2
Posts: 792
Joined: Fri Feb 24, 2017 3:42 pm

Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by sschoe2 »

Installing facets aren't hard though you may need a basin wrench and have to deal with some tough to reach fasteners, though some modern faucets are easier to install.
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Sandtrap
Posts: 19582
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Location: Hawaii No Ka Oi - white sandy beaches, N. Arizona 1 mile high.

Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by Sandtrap »

September wrote: Sat Nov 27, 2021 2:22 pm I planned to do a complete bathroom remodel since I bought my house but still haven't gotten to it. Now that due to the pandemic caused supply-chain issues, I decided to wait it out but just replacing the bathroom sink faucets instead. I have 4 inch, three holes double handle faucets and I am thinking of replacing those with Costco's Kohler Transitional Single Control Faucet
https://www.costco.com/kohler-transitio ... 07471.html
These are on sale now for $80

This faucet has single-hole or 4in center installations and has the 1.2 GPM

1) Is this a decent faucet if I were to replace the vanity and vanity tops later?
2) The faucets now all have 1.2 GPM. My old ones (20 years) might have higher GPM. Is this of concern?

Thanks!

Tools:

Basin wrench (A must)
Image
Amazon.com
https://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-WRN9200 ... reviews-20
Channel Lock Pliers
Small Crecent Wrench (optional)
Plastic paint roller tray
towels or rags to spread on the floor of the cabinet
Eye protection or glasses to protect from falling debris, rust, crud, etc.
Small thin blade putty knife
Plumbers putty (like Play Dough, the more you "need" it the softer it will get).
Something for your head or neck to prevent neck ache.
Something for your back to protect from back ache.

Faucet: Get the highest quality name brand. Solid insides, brass, etc. Ceramic valves.
*(Match the "pop up drain assembly rod" to the original) (vital).

New Water supply lines of the correct length: highest quality "flex" lines are the modern standard.
(in the very old days there was solid copper and then solid thin steel but no more, the end cone rubber washers eventually leaked, lines don't burst on the tube/line, they leak and burst on the ends, in general).

TIPS:
Take everything out from the cabinet. Give yourself space to work.
Put the paint roller tray under the angle stop and loosen the lower end of the water supply lines first so water doesn't go all over the place. Then, empty the tray of the water, put it back under the work area, then slide yourself under the faucets.
If things are rusty, wear a "covid mask" so you don't get rust falling in your mouth and nose.

If you are a big guy, take the doors off so you don't accidentally push too hard on them and bust the hinge or crack the frame.
(some of the guys that worked for me were really big so this became an issue that we figured out how to prevent).

Turn off the angle stops (water supply valves) just enough to stop water flow, don't overtighten. (no gorilla gripping).
Use a thin coat of plumber's putty under the faucet and also adequate amounts if you replace the entire pop up drain assembly.
Have a helper center the faucet in the holes and line it up straight from above when you tighten down the basin nuts from below.
Don't rush. Do the repair calmly. Play either soft music or hard rock. Get in the "zone".

If the faucet has a single center feed design, and the old one had side by sides, then the flex lines will be different lengths so buy those new ones.
Plumbers lie on their backs to do this, doing it like in this picture is tough unless you are very little or a "model doing a photo shoot with a fake cabinet like this.
Image

TIP:
Spouse or other might want the drain pop up assembly to match the finish of the faucet. So. . . .
https://smile.amazon.com/2-Handle-Cente ... RydWU&th=1
Image

TIP:
*If the angle stop is old and of the solid brass type, you can turn off your main water, again, use the paint roller tray to catch the water, then unscrew the collar and overhaul the valve with a kit of washers. Use plumber's grease on reassembly on the shaft and washers.
*If the angle stop can't be overhauled (many can), then replace.
*
**dislaimer: many might differ but if you did this for a living it's a whole nuther thing for most plumbers. Some do prefer to replace as the original at the owner's request and keep a stock of copper water supply line in the van/truck. So, there's no right or wrong about this. Some licensed plumbing contractors might input: "Give up this whole thing about solid copper or solid water supply lines from angle stop to faucet. Very 1950."
***If you want a definitive answer, go down to the plumbing contractor supply centers and get more input on what licensed plumbing contractor companies are using.
(copper was the gold standard in the 50/60's, and when flex lst came out there were issues, but that has evolved greatly)

When you are done, congratulations are in order.
:sharebeer

*If all of the above is overwhelming, especially replacing the angle stops if there are issues there (you don't want a leak in the wall *50/50 chance of this on old work), then call a reputable licensed plumber to do all of the work. Save your back. :D :D
j :D
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stefan_lec
Posts: 88
Joined: Fri Mar 08, 2019 10:43 pm

Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by stefan_lec »

September wrote: Sat Nov 27, 2021 8:20 pm My current bathroom faucets use copper risers, and the shut off valve is made of copper as well. Due to its age, the shut off valve is no longer functioning.
Just fixed one of these Brasscraft copper shutoff valves a week or two ago, you can get a small kit from Home Depot for only $3. It's super easy - I don't know anything about plumbing, but I found a YouTube video and it only took like 3 minutes to fix.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft- ... /204845385

This doesn't require replacing the valve completely or taking it off of the pipe - you're just unscrewing one screw to take off the shutoff valve's handle and replacing a small plastic insert and some washers.

If the shutoff valve handle is all corroded and nasty, you can get a new one of those for $2 from HD as well.

Here's the YouTube video I used: https://youtu.be/VIh8Li4uUFk
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Topic Author
September
Posts: 265
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 9:40 am

Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by September »

I just received the faucets I ordered from Costco (see picture below), the water supply lines are made of plastic and they are permanently attached to the faucets. The plastic really feels cheap. If these lines were to break, the faucet has to be replaced. I would rather use separate water supply lines, so that I can buy quality products on my own. The Kohler states that they have lifetime limited warranty, they warrant the faucet to be leak and drip free during normal residentail usage for as long as the original consumer owns their house. Let me know what you think of this faucet. Thanks!

Image
tibbitts
Posts: 23589
Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2007 5:50 pm

Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by tibbitts »

September wrote: Thu Dec 02, 2021 7:58 pm I just received the faucets I ordered from Costco (see picture below), the water supply lines are made of plastic and they are permanently attached to the faucets. The plastic really feels cheap. If these lines were to break, the faucet has to be replaced. I would rather use separate water supply lines, so that I can buy quality products on my own. The Kohler states that they have lifetime limited warranty, they warrant the faucet to be leak and drip free during normal residentail usage for as long as the original consumer owns their house. Let me know what you think of this faucet. Thanks!

Image
Plastic? So you're saying those braided lines aren't similar to the ones you buy separately? It's hard to say without feeling them but my kitchen faucet has a plastic sprayer head hose so I guess I must be okay with that. Years ago I would have complained about not being able to change the lines separately but now that they will probably outlast me I'm okay with them being permanent. By the time you have to replace the lines the faucet would probably need to be replaced anyway, just due to a generally crusty appearance.
bradinsky
Posts: 2267
Joined: Sat Jul 21, 2018 6:32 am
Location: Ohio

Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by bradinsky »

Sandtrap wrote: Sun Nov 28, 2021 9:09 am
September wrote: Sat Nov 27, 2021 2:22 pm I planned to do a complete bathroom remodel since I bought my house but still haven't gotten to it. Now that due to the pandemic caused supply-chain issues, I decided to wait it out but just replacing the bathroom sink faucets instead. I have 4 inch, three holes double handle faucets and I am thinking of replacing those with Costco's Kohler Transitional Single Control Faucet
https://www.costco.com/kohler-transitio ... 07471.html
These are on sale now for $80

This faucet has single-hole or 4in center installations and has the 1.2 GPM

1) Is this a decent faucet if I were to replace the vanity and vanity tops later?
2) The faucets now all have 1.2 GPM. My old ones (20 years) might have higher GPM. Is this of concern?

Thanks!

Tools:

Basin wrench (A must)
Image
Amazon.com
https://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-WRN9200 ... reviews-20
Channel Lock Pliers
Small Crecent Wrench (optional)
Plastic paint roller tray
towels or rags to spread on the floor of the cabinet
Eye protection or glasses to protect from falling debris, rust, crud, etc.
Small thin blade putty knife
Plumbers putty (like Play Dough, the more you "need" it the softer it will get).
Something for your head or neck to prevent neck ache.
Something for your back to protect from back ache.

Faucet: Get the highest quality name brand. Solid insides, brass, etc. Ceramic valves.
*(Match the "pop up drain assembly rod" to the original) (vital).

New Water supply lines of the correct length: highest quality "flex" lines are the modern standard.
(in the very old days there was solid copper and then solid thin steel but no more, the end cone rubber washers eventually leaked, lines don't burst on the tube/line, they leak and burst on the ends, in general).

TIPS:
Take everything out from the cabinet. Give yourself space to work.
Put the paint roller tray under the angle stop and loosen the lower end of the water supply lines first so water doesn't go all over the place. Then, empty the tray of the water, put it back under the work area, then slide yourself under the faucets.
If things are rusty, wear a "covid mask" so you don't get rust falling in your mouth and nose.

If you are a big guy, take the doors off so you don't accidentally push too hard on them and bust the hinge or crack the frame.
(some of the guys that worked for me were really big so this became an issue that we figured out how to prevent).

Turn off the angle stops (water supply valves) just enough to stop water flow, don't overtighten. (no gorilla gripping).
Use a thin coat of plumber's putty under the faucet and also adequate amounts if you replace the entire pop up drain assembly.
Have a helper center the faucet in the holes and line it up straight from above when you tighten down the basin nuts from below.
Don't rush. Do the repair calmly. Play either soft music or hard rock. Get in the "zone".

If the faucet has a single center feed design, and the old one had side by sides, then the flex lines will be different lengths so buy those new ones.
Plumbers lie on their backs to do this, doing it like in this picture is tough unless you are very little or a "model doing a photo shoot with a fake cabinet like this.
Image

TIP:
Spouse or other might want the drain pop up assembly to match the finish of the faucet. So. . . .
https://smile.amazon.com/2-Handle-Cente ... RydWU&th=1
Image

TIP:
*If the angle stop is old and of the solid brass type, you can turn off your main water, again, use the paint roller tray to catch the water, then unscrew the collar and overhaul the valve with a kit of washers. Use plumber's grease on reassembly on the shaft and washers.
*If the angle stop can't be overhauled (many can), then replace.
*
**dislaimer: many might differ but if you did this for a living it's a whole nuther thing for most plumbers. Some do prefer to replace as the original at the owner's request and keep a stock of copper water supply line in the van/truck. So, there's no right or wrong about this. Some licensed plumbing contractors might input: "Give up this whole thing about solid copper or solid water supply lines from angle stop to faucet. Very 1950."
***If you want a definitive answer, go down to the plumbing contractor supply centers and get more input on what licensed plumbing contractor companies are using.
(copper was the gold standard in the 50/60's, and when flex lst came out there were issues, but that has evolved greatly)

When you are done, congratulations are in order.
:sharebeer

*If all of the above is overwhelming, especially replacing the angle stops if there are issues there (you don't want a leak in the wall *50/50 chance of this on old work), then call a reputable licensed plumber to do all of the work. Save your back. :D :D
j :D
Nice post Sandtrap!
Topic Author
September
Posts: 265
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 9:40 am

Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by September »

tibbitts wrote: Thu Dec 02, 2021 8:14 pm
September wrote: Thu Dec 02, 2021 7:58 pm I just received the faucets I ordered from Costco (see picture below), the water supply lines are made of plastic and they are permanently attached to the faucets. The plastic really feels cheap. If these lines were to break, the faucet has to be replaced. I would rather use separate water supply lines, so that I can buy quality products on my own. The Kohler states that they have lifetime limited warranty, they warrant the faucet to be leak and drip free during normal residentail usage for as long as the original consumer owns their house. Let me know what you think of this faucet. Thanks!

Image
Plastic? So you're saying those braided lines aren't similar to the ones you buy separately? It's hard to say without feeling them but my kitchen faucet has a plastic sprayer head hose so I guess I must be okay with that. Years ago I would have complained about not being able to change the lines separately but now that they will probably outlast me I'm okay with them being permanent. By the time you have to replace the lines the faucet would probably need to be replaced anyway, just due to a generally crusty appearance.

The braided stainless steel one looks better
https://www.homedepot.com/p/BWE-24-in-B ... /315000602

My kitchen faucet also has a plastic sprayer head hose, but not the water supply lines
Topic Author
September
Posts: 265
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 9:40 am

Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by September »

bradinsky wrote: Thu Dec 02, 2021 8:25 pm
Sandtrap wrote: Sun Nov 28, 2021 9:09 am
September wrote: Sat Nov 27, 2021 2:22 pm I planned to do a complete bathroom remodel since I bought my house but still haven't gotten to it. Now that due to the pandemic caused supply-chain issues, I decided to wait it out but just replacing the bathroom sink faucets instead. I have 4 inch, three holes double handle faucets and I am thinking of replacing those with Costco's Kohler Transitional Single Control Faucet
https://www.costco.com/kohler-transitio ... 07471.html
These are on sale now for $80

This faucet has single-hole or 4in center installations and has the 1.2 GPM

1) Is this a decent faucet if I were to replace the vanity and vanity tops later?
2) The faucets now all have 1.2 GPM. My old ones (20 years) might have higher GPM. Is this of concern?

Thanks!

Tools:

Basin wrench (A must)
Image
Amazon.com
https://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-WRN9200 ... reviews-20
Channel Lock Pliers
Small Crecent Wrench (optional)
Plastic paint roller tray
towels or rags to spread on the floor of the cabinet
Eye protection or glasses to protect from falling debris, rust, crud, etc.
Small thin blade putty knife
Plumbers putty (like Play Dough, the more you "need" it the softer it will get).
Something for your head or neck to prevent neck ache.
Something for your back to protect from back ache.

Faucet: Get the highest quality name brand. Solid insides, brass, etc. Ceramic valves.
*(Match the "pop up drain assembly rod" to the original) (vital).

New Water supply lines of the correct length: highest quality "flex" lines are the modern standard.
(in the very old days there was solid copper and then solid thin steel but no more, the end cone rubber washers eventually leaked, lines don't burst on the tube/line, they leak and burst on the ends, in general).

TIPS:
Take everything out from the cabinet. Give yourself space to work.
Put the paint roller tray under the angle stop and loosen the lower end of the water supply lines first so water doesn't go all over the place. Then, empty the tray of the water, put it back under the work area, then slide yourself under the faucets.
If things are rusty, wear a "covid mask" so you don't get rust falling in your mouth and nose.

If you are a big guy, take the doors off so you don't accidentally push too hard on them and bust the hinge or crack the frame.
(some of the guys that worked for me were really big so this became an issue that we figured out how to prevent).

Turn off the angle stops (water supply valves) just enough to stop water flow, don't overtighten. (no gorilla gripping).
Use a thin coat of plumber's putty under the faucet and also adequate amounts if you replace the entire pop up drain assembly.
Have a helper center the faucet in the holes and line it up straight from above when you tighten down the basin nuts from below.
Don't rush. Do the repair calmly. Play either soft music or hard rock. Get in the "zone".

If the faucet has a single center feed design, and the old one had side by sides, then the flex lines will be different lengths so buy those new ones.
Plumbers lie on their backs to do this, doing it like in this picture is tough unless you are very little or a "model doing a photo shoot with a fake cabinet like this.
Image

TIP:
Spouse or other might want the drain pop up assembly to match the finish of the faucet. So. . . .
https://smile.amazon.com/2-Handle-Cente ... RydWU&th=1
Image

TIP:
*If the angle stop is old and of the solid brass type, you can turn off your main water, again, use the paint roller tray to catch the water, then unscrew the collar and overhaul the valve with a kit of washers. Use plumber's grease on reassembly on the shaft and washers.
*If the angle stop can't be overhauled (many can), then replace.
*
**dislaimer: many might differ but if you did this for a living it's a whole nuther thing for most plumbers. Some do prefer to replace as the original at the owner's request and keep a stock of copper water supply line in the van/truck. So, there's no right or wrong about this. Some licensed plumbing contractors might input: "Give up this whole thing about solid copper or solid water supply lines from angle stop to faucet. Very 1950."
***If you want a definitive answer, go down to the plumbing contractor supply centers and get more input on what licensed plumbing contractor companies are using.
(copper was the gold standard in the 50/60's, and when flex lst came out there were issues, but that has evolved greatly)

When you are done, congratulations are in order.
:sharebeer

*If all of the above is overwhelming, especially replacing the angle stops if there are issues there (you don't want a leak in the wall *50/50 chance of this on old work), then call a reputable licensed plumber to do all of the work. Save your back. :D :D
j :D
Nice post Sandtrap!
Indeed! Thanks Sandtrap for the detailed post. The hardest job is to take the old faucets, supply lines, and shutoff valves out. The ones I have are 20+ years old. I tried using a basin wrench to unhook the nuts that hold the faucets. I can only loosen one nut not the other in one of the sinks. They have other tools, Change-Faucet-Tool, that can handle the jobs better, but I haven't tried yet. Believe me I read instructions and watched lots of youtube videos, and still haven't decided to do it on my own. It's really uncomfortable to work in the tiny space with your face facing the sink and lying on your back. I need to shut off the main water lines to replace the faucet as the shutoff valves for my bathroom faucet didn't work.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-EZ-C ... 528759-_-N
furwut
Posts: 2122
Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2012 8:54 pm

Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by furwut »

I have a basin wrench. But the last faucet I replaced had me cussing and thinking I should have had one of these:
https://youtu.be/_H0p6r8ovY4

EDIT: Didn’t see the post immediately above so duplicate. But +1 with September. There’s a new tool in town!
tibbitts
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Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by tibbitts »

furwut wrote: Fri Dec 03, 2021 9:33 am I have a basin wrench. But the last faucet I replaced had me cussing and thinking I should have had one of these:
https://youtu.be/_H0p6r8ovY4

EDIT: Didn’t see the post immediately above so duplicate. But +1 with September. There’s a new tool in town!
That's an interesting tool, and it seems like there are lots of clones. I'd never seen one. I had just used tubing wrenches on the hot/cold lines, and never needed anything special for the drain for the sinks I've replaced, but can see where a tool like this could come in handy.
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September
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Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by September »

Thanks for your replies! The Kohler faucet I bought is too large for my bathroom. I am thinking of buying this one instead.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/MOEN-Adler- ... t-overview
Adler 4 in. Centerset Single-Handle Low-Arc Bathroom Faucet in Spot Resist Brushed Nickel
twh
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Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by twh »

September wrote: Fri Dec 03, 2021 12:52 pm Thanks for your replies! The Kohler faucet I bought is too large for my bathroom. I am thinking of buying this one instead.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/MOEN-Adler- ... t-overview
Adler 4 in. Centerset Single-Handle Low-Arc Bathroom Faucet in Spot Resist Brushed Nickel
American Standard or Kohler
twh
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Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by twh »

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Sandtrap
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Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by Sandtrap »

September wrote: Fri Dec 03, 2021 12:52 pm Thanks for your replies! The Kohler faucet I bought is too large for my bathroom. I am thinking of buying this one instead.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/MOEN-Adler- ... t-overview
Adler 4 in. Centerset Single-Handle Low-Arc Bathroom Faucet in Spot Resist Brushed Nickel
This will work.
Consider Delta, Moen (this one), Kohler, other "name brands" so you can get parts for it (replacement washers, cartridges, etc,) later on.

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hightechburrito
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Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by hightechburrito »

In my experience, the drain assembly is where the worst effects of the supplier saving money are seen.

Ultimately, the issue is either how the threads are formed in the plastic (it leaves a seam along the surface of the threads and water can leak by), or the plastic threads aren't strong enough to compress the gaskets enough to seal. Both end up with a very slow leak that drips under the drain (slow like a few drops each time the sink is used). Not enough to really cause any damage, but enough to make me want to fix it.

I now go right to an all metal drain assembly when changing faucets. The cost about $25 from the big box stores (which would add $50-75 if they supplied that same drain with the faucet).

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Keeney-Chrome- ... in/1059287

Another source of slow drips/leaks is when the trap arm isn't aligned well to the p-trap when that joint is tightened. In the common kits from big box stores, that's a plastic-on-plastic joint, so if there's any misalignment it won't seal well. The other two joints (between trap and tailpiece, and between trap arm and wall trap adapter) have a rubber or nylon washer, so they're more forgiving of some misalignment. So you want to tighten the least forgiving joint first (plastic-plastic joint between the trap and trap arm), then the more forgiving joints with the washers.
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September
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Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by September »

hightechburrito wrote: Fri Dec 03, 2021 5:19 pm In my experience, the drain assembly is where the worst effects of the supplier saving money are seen.

Ultimately, the issue is either how the threads are formed in the plastic (it leaves a seam along the surface of the threads and water can leak by), or the plastic threads aren't strong enough to compress the gaskets enough to seal. Both end up with a very slow leak that drips under the drain (slow like a few drops each time the sink is used). Not enough to really cause any damage, but enough to make me want to fix it.

I now go right to an all metal drain assembly when changing faucets. The cost about $25 from the big box stores (which would add $50-75 if they supplied that same drain with the faucet).

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Keeney-Chrome- ... in/1059287

Another source of slow drips/leaks is when the trap arm isn't aligned well to the p-trap when that joint is tightened. In the common kits from big box stores, that's a plastic-on-plastic joint, so if there's any misalignment it won't seal well. The other two joints (between trap and tailpiece, and between trap arm and wall trap adapter) have a rubber or nylon washer, so they're more forgiving of some misalignment. So you want to tighten the least forgiving joint first (plastic-plastic joint between the trap and trap arm), then the more forgiving joints with the washers.
Thanks for your advice. Considering the cost of getting faucets replaced right once for all (I will hire a handyman/plumber to do it), maybe I should wait until I do the full bathroom remodeling. My bathroom sinks, cabinets, and shower doors all need to be replaced as they are 20+ year old.
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Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by TT »

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jabberwockOG
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Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by jabberwockOG »

Plumber tip/trick - Particularly in a new install, you can save time and back pain by installing the faucet, drain, and supply lines onto the countertop/sink before you put the countertop on the cabinet. Even for old work, sometimes the countertop is relatively small and can easily be removed (held down on cabinet only by caulk). The countertop/sink can then be flipped upside down and back up again to easily remove old fixture/drain, and to greatly ease new faucet/drain fixture and supply line installation. In tight quarters and/or old corroded install situation this method can save hours of time (and greatly minimize curse words). After new faucet, drain, and supply lines are mounted, reinstall the counter top/sink onto the cabinet. Then attach supply lines to water valves - et Bob est ton oncle.
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Re: Replacing bathroom sink faucets

Post by jcpct »

I would never buy cheap faucets from a big box store. I remodeled my bathroom several years ago and my designer suggested a brand called Brizo. They are outstanding, have a great feel and have worked like they should for the years I have had them. Not cheap but so worth it. Replacing faucets is not rocket science and there a many YouTube videos that will show you how.
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