Bogleheads.org

airahcaz

How long would it be before one can buy a new or used Tesla for under $30K?

This is a current dilemma vs the new Camry or Accord, albeit ICE cars, but right now more than $30K is out of budget for most, including myself, or simply a choice where we don't want to spend more than that on a car.

airahcaz

Hi, I am in similar situation: This is my understanding. If you live in NJ and work in NYC, Though you get tax credit for NY state tax, you still end up paying tax for NJ. so essentially not much benefit. The problem is: now you are locked for NY 529 and cant move to different state 529 plan, as ny...

airahcaz

Not really "luxury" but still pretty nice; I buy used Lexus ES's that are 5-7 years old; they are at the optimal part of the depreciation curve, so they are relatively cheap; they are based on the Camry, so they are very reliable, and cheap to maintain. They drive smoothly (albeit boring)...

airahcaz

mak1277 wrote:
airahcaz wrote:Entry level Rolex is no longer "around $5000"
Oyster Perpetual models can still be found around $5k new.

You're right. I was referring to entry level classic DateJust.

airahcaz

Dottie57 wrote:I would just get a camry with all the trimmings. Leather heated seats. All of the many safety features. And a set of snow tires.

Accord!

airahcaz

I recently bought a Porsche Boxster. I could have sprung for a 911, but I don't see the extra value in that. I went to a recent Porsche track event. Not much extra for the cost with a 911, even an S. However, a Turbo, that is amazing. Roller coaster on wheels. I was thinking a Lexus 460 next. Howev...

airahcaz

Hi BH, As my router is on top floor, I’m fairly close to making the decision to not run Ethernet to my basement and instead get a wireless mesh network (Whole Home Wi-Fi Systems). Or I still run the Ethernet cable (to a switch) and still get the Mesh, because I understand there are distinct advantag...

airahcaz

Entry level Rolex is no longer "around $5000" but I am on my third upgrade and I've been so pleasantly surprised each time that each one has held their value so well over decades, that there's nothing like it. I also have a Tag etc., which get peanuts on a trade-in. Rolex for sure, the new...

airahcaz

Why did you say counterproductive? Well, maybe 'counterproductive' is a stretch. Just inst doing anything really useful if the basement walls are well insulated. Ah ok. If I didn't have it already, I wouldn't add it. But I do have it and don't necessarily want to waste it if it can add value. If it...

airahcaz

Thanks for this - but what makes this different is that the newly conditioned basement will not be used daily and thus not heated daily to the same temp as first floor. It can be more than a 10 degree difference. So we wonder if it makes sense to keep the ceiling fiberglass batt so that the first f...

airahcaz

Yes, the air trapped within the fiberglass contributes to insulation value, however fiberglass batts are very poor at blocking airflow. Near useless if they are unfaced. Go up into the attic of an old house and look at the pink bats. you will see dark stains everywhere - this is where drafts pass t...

airahcaz

So what about a basement that does get finished where rim joists are sealed and walls are insulated, BUT the new basement living space is not used daily (in winter it will remain cooler than first and second floors). Does one remove the existing fiberglass batt in basement ceiling for creating a pr...

airahcaz

Removing the fiberglass batt from a basement ceiling will allow for warm air from the first floor to warm up the basement, thereby making the basement more comfortable. But is this at the expense of the first floor?

airahcaz

Thanks for the clarifications but I am not sure I am clearer on whether to take them out or leave them

airahcaz

So what about a basement that does get finished where rim joists are sealed and walls are insulated, BUT the new basement living space is not used daily (in winter it will remain cooler than first and second floors). Does one remove the existing fiberglass batt in basement ceiling for creating a pro...

airahcaz

When finishing an unfinished basement, some say remove the existing fiberglass batt in basement ceiling, for air flow between now two conditioned spaces. Others say leave it.

Call me confused.

airahcaz

Nearing_Destination wrote:No

But the R value of the foam products, for the depth, isn't as high
There are a number of similar products-- go to any big box store and look

I'm trying to compare it to DOW or Corning 2" rigid xps foam board.

airahcaz

Has anyone heard of InSoFast insulation?

https://insofast.com/

airahcaz

and with this will need to tile the walls, but is it unrealistic to spend only a few hundred bucks on tile material alone? https://www.lowes.com/pd/DreamLine-Aqua-Ultra-Chrome-Acrylic-Floor-2-Piece-Alcove-Shower-Kit-Common-30-in-x-60-in-Actual-74-75-in-x-30-in-x-60-in/50443522 You can buy tile, thi...

airahcaz

and with this will need to tile the walls, but is it unrealistic to spend only a few hundred bucks on tile material alone?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/DreamLine-Aqua ... n/50443522

airahcaz

https://www.lowes.com/pd/DreamLine-Infi ... n/50443304

airahcaz

Rough plumbing ejector pit etc. are all accounted for already. I'm just really after cost effective shower stall and the options.

airahcaz

Plumbing is included in my overall contractor price already, so I'm really after material costs.

By tile pattern, that just means tile right? Can tile be had for the same price as prefab walls? (not accounting for difference in labor)

airahcaz

Nicer pre-fab 3/4 shower kits will run you around $1k. Cheaper ones can be had for closer to $300. Installation for either isn't really that hard if someone else does the plumbing work. Here's a nicer model for reference http://www.homedepot.com/p/DreamLine-Prime-38-in-x-38-in-x-76-75-in-Corner-Fra...

airahcaz

A custom tiled shower with glass door is going to cost you 2-3K minimum, and that's assuming your shower will have a relatively small door (i.e., not too much glass). It wouldn't hurt to go to a bath/shower showroom so they can show you all the fancy options you can choose. But I think your budget ...

airahcaz

Hi - We are finishing our basement and are a bit overwhelmed with the options for a shower. We don't need/want a tub. space is 5' by 3'.We'd like to spend no more than $1000 for the "shower", whether the combo 3 piece walls and basin or glass door with tile or all the multitude of option...

airahcaz

Doesn't rigid foam board require a fire resistant barrier to cover it? When we built 30 years ago, we put foam board on the outside foundation (below grade) for the insulation value which is probably minimal. We also put 1" foil faced foam board on the 2X4 studs under sheetrock to get the equi...

airahcaz

Received this: Hello Ranjan and thank you for your inquiry. I would get a digital hygrometer to test your Relative Humidity in your space. If you go above 60% RH then you could use a dehumidifier down there because you want to be about 55% to 50%. That would be the RH seeping past your vapor barrier...

airahcaz

Rigid foam is a vapor retarder and not a barrier unless it also has foil on the inside. By putting rigid foam on the inside of a basement, you are wanting the basement walls to dry from the inside out. (I'm assuming you have no exterior foam around the basement that would cause a mold issue by not ...

airahcaz

Rigid foam is a vapor retarder and not a barrier unless it also has foil on the inside. By putting rigid foam on the inside of a basement, you are wanting the basement walls to dry from the inside out. (I'm assuming you have no exterior foam around the basement that would cause a mold issue by not ...

airahcaz

Hi - my basement will have rigid foam board acting as a vapor barrier for both the walls and the ceiling. Thus, I do not believe moisture will be able to penetrate into the living space.

Would a dehumidifier still be able to pull out the moisture from the cinder block behind the rigid foam board?

airahcaz

Has anyone been able to properly report a Roth IRA conversion recharacterization and subsequent return of excess with gains in TurboTax without having received any 1099 for the return of excess gains?

If so, how?

TIA

airahcaz

Ok Wise Folks, Tax filing time. Spoke to Fidelity and I will not receive proper 1099's for this Recharacterization and return of excess (with gains) till Jan 2018! They said I was obligated to report it in this year's taxes though. SO How do I do so? In TurboTax it allows me to fill out the recharac...

airahcaz

To be clear, I've not really given much of a look into the pro's and con's of in-wall heaters versus baseboards. I just know the in-wall heaters are very low cost and easy to find a location to fit them into the room because of their small size. Because they do make some fan noise, a baseboard migh...

airahcaz

That would definitely be my inclination. Multi-zone seems like overkill for what you're doing. I won't rule out that the installer might have good reasons for his suggestion, but he might also just be trying to sell you a seriously oversized system for his own profit. By in-wall, forced air heater,...

airahcaz

So how many total BTU/hour is he trying to sell you? A single unit generally heats a single floor fairly well when the doors are open - maybe a couple degrees difference if the outside walls are reasonably insulated. If that leaves a couple rooms too cool, I'd turn the basement heat up just enough ...

airahcaz

Most recent HVAC installer is suggesting a 3-4 zone unit, vs. single zone, as if we need to heat bedroom (bathroom, future office, etc.) later, we'd have to replace the outside unit? This will double initial costs, materials and labor, but worth considering? Hi, is this if you subdivide the basemen...

airahcaz

Most recent HVAC installer is suggesting a 3-4 zone unit, vs. single zone, as if we need to heat bedroom (bathroom, future office, etc.) later, we'd have to replace the outside unit? This will double initial costs, materials and labor, but worth considering?

airahcaz

The important point here is whether the basement is 1000 sq ft, where the 9kBTU is oversized, or 2400 sq ft, in which case it is probably just adequate. Perhaps the OP could provide the actual dimensions? Hi - I am deciding between the LG Art Cool Gallery 9000K BTU LA090HVP or their 12000 BTU LA120...

airahcaz

I have been considering installing mini-splits in my house in LI, and have done a lot of research. My feeling is that for a "well-insulated" 1000 sq ft basement in NJ, assuming its open floor layout with no air distribution issue, even a 9000 BTU/h mini-split may be oversized. If you have...

airahcaz

Absolutely, but where is the measurement taken that turns the unit on or off? On the remote? on the unit itself just below the ceiling? In the summer we usually set on it 72 - 74 for cooling, but it seems to run continuously (but uses hardly any electricity) and the room is certainly comfortable. O...

airahcaz

This is amazing. So many thanks. But now you've really got me, do I go with the 9K or 12K? Assume a 60x40 area with 6' below grade and 2' above grade (rim joists). That is larger than my area but should be good to get a rough idea. Big basement. OK. LEt's say the ground freezes down to 2' so thats ...

airahcaz

We had a Fujitsu AOU15RLFFH floor unit installed in our kitchen/dining room, first floor with condenser and drains through walkout basement. We installed primarily for cooling and shoulder season heating. Took a few minutes of discussion with installer once we had finished basement ceiling opened u...

airahcaz

Wellfleet wrote:We just had one put in yesterday. Don't forget about the condensate drain location. It will need to gravity flow to drain or outside or be pumped.

Which, what size, square footage, and basement or other level?

airahcaz

I'd still say its impossible to estimate over the 'net....are the walls insulated or not, to what R-value. Are the rims and sill sealed, insulated? Is the slab insulated, or not, R-value? The first two are more important than the last one. Unfinished and walls will be 2" of R5 so total R10 and...

airahcaz

I'd still say its impossible to estimate over the 'net....are the walls insulated or not, to what R-value. Are the rims and sill sealed, insulated? Is the slab insulated, or not, R-value? The first two are more important than the last one. Unfinished and walls will be 2" of R5 so total R10 and...

airahcaz

It means you will get full 12K BTU from the machine when outdoor temperatures are at around 30-40 degrees. Below that the units starts to lose BTU. With the chart I gave you, you can see at 14 degrees you only get 8.8K BTU. 9K btu at 14 degrees outside should be still good to go right?! It may just...

airahcaz

It means you will get full 12K BTU from the machine when outdoor temperatures are at around 30-40 degrees. Below that the units starts to lose BTU. With the chart I gave you, you can see at 14 degrees you only get 8.8K BTU. 9K btu at 14 degrees outside should be still good to go right?! It may just...

airahcaz

9K btu at 14 degrees outside should be still good to go right?! It may just run at high capacity and for an extended period of time, but that should be ok and a homeowner should expect to pay higher utilities when it is really cold outside anyway. If it went to 0 btu heat, then I suppose it'd be mo...

airahcaz

All heat pumps have reduced output at lower temperatures. There's not a certain outdoor temperature where it happens. It's a continuous curve. They are sized to a balance point - the temperature where the heat pump heat output matches the calculated heat loss. When temperatures are lower than that,...

Search found 1521 matches