Bogleheads.org

There are many threads comparing total market vs SP500 - which is what I believe the OP is referring to. If so, I encourage them to read these other threads.

mark_in_denver wrote: ↑Mon Mar 20, 2023 11:04 pm Why not just buy some various duration treasuries.

Agreed. Just buy some TBills?

happymob wrote: ↑Sun Mar 19, 2023 9:15 am As always, with 529 plans, know your own state's (or states') rules. They vary a lot. Just looking at OK and KS today, I noticed that the websites say they don't require residency... which implies that some states might for the deduction.

+1 to this. Know your state's rules. NYS has some great tax benefits for the contribution year. I make sure to add $10k/yr to my kids plans (total).

About 2 years for me. It has taken a while, but my tax bill alone has gone down about 8-10k/yr. Being a BH works!

I am guessing .413

A professor here. I teach a class for college freshman. My advice is this: They are adults, treat them like it. Start doing it BEFORE they come to campus. I HATE when I hear things from advisors and other faculty (and parents) saying things analogous to "they're only 18" in regards to them remembering to study for tests etc..

anon_investor wrote: ↑Thu Mar 16, 2023 10:09 pm Why not just buy I Bonds now? The current 6%+ composite rate beat anything else out there.

I am moving emergency money and money I want to set aside for a new car down the road to Tbills. With Ibonds you're locked in for 1 year.

Wondering what the boglehead philosophy on 401k rollovers is. I've had a former employer's 401k with its same custodian for almost 3 years now. I have 401k with a new employer and also have a Roth IRA with vanguard. My personal philosophy is to never leave an old 401k behind. I always move it. And if you want to do backdoor Roth IRAs, roll it into your new 401K plan. I try to minimize the number of accounts I have. Keep everything simple. And I don’t want any “ties to the past”. +1 Move it. Years ago, I had left a company for 5+ years and they came back and removed money from my Fidelity account due to a "clerical error". I called Fidelity and they said they could legally do this, but that they had never really seen it happen.

SnowBog wrote: ↑Sun Mar 05, 2023 2:43 pm

dan7800 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 05, 2023 2:34 pm Dumb question.

- An ee in 20 years will return ~ 3.54%
- You can buy a 20 year at 4.1

Why buy an EE (outside of education etc...)?

An EE Bond incurs $0 taxes - until you sell it. In essence, they extend your "tax-advantaged" space.

A 20-year Zero has a tax-drag all 20 years (unless you have access to and space to hold them in a tax-advantaged account, but that means "less space" for other investments).

Excellent post. Thank you very much for the informative response.

Dumb question.

- An ee in 20 years will return ~ 3.54%
- You can buy a 20 year at 4.1

Why buy an EE (outside of education etc...)?

I used to visit the Almafi coast each summer. Grew to hate it. Too touristy. Sorrento is OK.

We LOVE Sicily now.

Hemingway

I have two kids under 18 months old. I am pretty sure that Mr. Bogle himself would advocate coffee for me even if it was $100/cup.

Joybeejoy wrote: ↑Fri Feb 24, 2023 6:39 pm PS - DEFINITELY get referrals, check with BBB, state licensing agency if your state has one. Visit someone who used him as a contractor and pay attention to fit and finish, attention to detail and ask if the work was performed in a timely manner.
My contractor was recommended by a plumber friend of 30 years.

Agreed. Go with referrals. The best one to hire may not be the cheapest. I've been burned by going with cheap contractors.

A few years ago, I had a well known company claim that I damaged a car. I did not.

Their "investigation" found that I was liable for the damages. I spoke to my CC company. I left a dispute and I was off the hook.

I wouldn't sweat this, just a PITA.

chassis wrote: ↑Fri Feb 17, 2023 9:57 am
Diminished value claims are urban legend. Abandon this idea and save mental time and space.

Disagree

Why not consider other forms of treasuries instead of CDs?

8foot7 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 13, 2023 6:21 am I would simply ignore the request.

Personally I would do this at least for now.

I am not a lawyer. Other than trying to stay in their good graces, what would you have to gain from signing such a document?

As far as being normal, I think that you answered your own question with what happened with your neighbor.

anthonypals wrote: ↑Sat Feb 11, 2023 10:06 pm I have the chance to lock in an 11 month CD rate at 5 percent with my bank (until 3/14/23). Does anyone think the CD rates are going to go up a lot more or should I take advantage of this offer?

My crystal ball is in the shop.

Take a look at Tbill rates

1. 401k and 403b contributions count against each other. Max total across all these is $22.5K in 2023 for under 50. And for @dan7800, apparently 403(b) contributions do not count against 401(k) contributions, so the same would not apply to you. But check that out for yourself. I run a side business and collect 1099 income. Usually 1-25k yr. I have a full time job with a traditional 403b that I max out. If I want to save as much as possible in TA accounts, is a SEP the way to go, or can I open a solo 401k on top of my traditional 403b? Not only do 403(b) deferrals count against your solo 401(k), even the employer contributions do. Thank you very much. I am under 50. So if I am maxing out my 403b, then it sounds like the only alternative opt...

I run a side business and collect 1099 income. Usually 1-25k yr. I have a full time job with a traditional 403b that I max out.

If I want to save as much as possible in TA accounts, is a SEP the way to go, or can I open a solo 401k on top of my traditional 403b?

Inside the 3rd reich.

While not a WWII book, David Hackworth was one of my favorite "war" authors.

Tom_T wrote: ↑Mon Jan 23, 2023 1:39 pm Similarly, if you bought 10K now, you can't sell it in April and then "buy it back" in May. TD does not care about your "net" purchases. As soon as the 10K purchase box is checked, you're done for the year.

What about gifts?

I live in upstate NY in a 4k sq ft home. Decent insulation. Had to keep the house cranked up due to the addition for a premie baby to the family. Thinking we could be getting over a 1k heating bill.

Assuming this incident happened within the last couple days and you don’t have 6 inches of standing water on the floor, you can likely remediate this yourself. Mold can start within a day or two so do the cleanup asap. 1. Mop up all water. 2. Put a couple dehumidifiers and fans in the room 24/7 until dry. 3. Remove and dispose of any drywall, rugs and other items in the garage that are wet/have wicked up water. 4. Let everything dry out. Don’t install any new drywall until dry for at least a couple weeks. 5. Use a bleach solution spray on any areas showing mold. Wear protective gear/eye protection with adequate ventilation. This. About 10 years ago, we had 3 feet of water in our basement due to a flood. Followed this process, and we were f...

Nate79 wrote: ↑Fri Jan 20, 2023 6:02 pm VTI and VTSAX are share classes of the same fund.

They are the same thing.

So if you do any analysis that shows them different, you are wrong.

Agreed. There are also a ton of threads on this already that I would encourage folks to read.


This is why VTI/VTSAX are NOT TLH partners. They are the same thing.

voxtry wrote: ↑Thu Jan 19, 2023 12:54 pm

dan7800 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 17, 2023 9:36 am Heck, I could put the money into T-bills for 3 months and then buy back the ibonds later on.

Just checking to see if my tentative plan would make sense.

But when trying to buy them back, you would be limited to $10k, right? I think that's what stops some people from selling them. I'm no expert though, and I'm interested in what others say.

I am no expert either, but would this work?

1) Deliver the 10k gift to my wife and she gives me my gift. So we each have 20k in our account
2) We sell the 20k in ibonds 3 months into the 0 (or very low) variable rate. This would essentially bypass the 3 month penalty because we wouldn't be making anything anyways.
3) We buy 20k as gifts for one another, which we will deliver in 2024.

For Vanguard customers, using FSKAX instead of VTSAX in TA accounts seems to make a lot of sense. This would enable them to use VTI/ITOT as TLH partners in taxable accounts while not triggering any wash sales. Any thoughts regarding this? I'm considering moving all of my VTI in my TA to FSKAX just to make TLH easier. Why not use SCHB and avoid the transaction fee? I do not believe that FSKAX has a transaction fee. When buying at Vanguard? I think it's $50. https://investor.vanguard.com/mutual-funds/profile/fees/X751?FundIntExt=EXT Here is what I see when starting an order for $3000 in my Vanguard account to buy FSKAX Estimated transaction details Buy amount $3,000.00 Vanguard Brokerage fee None Net amount $3,000.00 From the wording on the ...

Option 1: Redeem the 2023 bond (which was purchased in 2022) today, which maxes the 2023 limit, and buy a new gift bond today for 2025. Why can't we deliver the gifts in 2023 and we then each sell our 20k lot? We could then turn around and buy 20 k as gifts for one another, delivering them in 2024, 2025, but this time they'd have some kind of fixed value. Strategically it currently makes sense to generally wait on this sort of thing. Current market rates are higher than the fixed rate, so it's possible the fixed rate might increase again. Right now it also looks like the next inflation rate could be lower. Selling a 2022 purchase means receiving zero interest for three months. For example redeeming a January 2022 purchase this month gives ...

Interesting article from TIPS Watch https://tipswatch.com/2023/01/13/is-the-i-bonds-variable-rate-heading-to-zero-maybe-not/ that discusses a possible iBond variable rate of 0%. This, or a very low variable rate would be quite interesting. - I like a lot of people loaded up recently when the fixed rate was 0%. If the variable rate is very low and our fixed rate is 0%, then we are earning nothing /very little for 6 months. This would make it easy to exit out of these bonds since a 3 month penalty of ~0% interest would obviously be easy to tolerate. - I would also envision that they'd need to raise the fixed rate to at least 2-3% to make the purchase at least somewhat attractive so people would continue to buy it. I'd see no reason why someo...

- I would also envision that they'd need to raise the fixed rate to at least 2-3% to make the purchase at least somewhat attractive so people would continue to buy it. I'd see no reason why someone would purchase iBonds if the fixed rate was lower than 1% and the variable was very low as well. This could make the iBond attractive for long term investors like me who could tolerate a short period of low total return in favor of the longer term benefits of a high fixed rate. If this is the case, I would sell all my purchases that have a fixed rate of 0% and switch into new purchases (assuming the fixed rate is at least 2-3%). The largest fixed rate increase was November 2008 of 0.7%. Considering the current fixed rate, it's rather unlikely th...

Interesting article from TIPS Watch https://tipswatch.com/2023/01/13/is-the-i-bonds-variable-rate-heading-to-zero-maybe-not/ that discusses a possible iBond variable rate of 0%. This, or a very low variable rate would be quite interesting. - I like a lot of people loaded up recently when the fixed rate was 0%. If the variable rate is very low and our fixed rate is 0%, then we are earning nothing /very little for 6 months. This would make it easy to exit out of these bonds since a 3 month penalty of ~0% interest would obviously be easy to tolerate. - I would also envision that they'd need to raise the fixed rate to at least 2-3% to make the purchase at least somewhat attractive so people would continue to buy it. I'd see no reason why someon...

Compared to what? This year I am funding/maxing out these in order:

ROTH IRA
401k
529
ibonds


What are you giving up?

For Vanguard customers, using FSKAX instead of VTSAX in TA accounts seems to make a lot of sense. This would enable them to use VTI/ITOT as TLH partners in taxable accounts while not triggering any wash sales. Any thoughts regarding this? I'm considering moving all of my VTI in my TA to FSKAX just to make TLH easier. Why not use SCHB and avoid the transaction fee? I do not believe that FSKAX has a transaction fee. When buying at Vanguard? I think it's $50. https://investor.vanguard.com/mutual-funds/profile/fees/X751?FundIntExt=EXT Here is what I see when starting an order for $3000 in my Vanguard account to buy FSKAX Estimated transaction details Buy amount $3,000.00 Vanguard Brokerage fee None Net amount $3,000.00 From the wording on the ...

toddthebod wrote: ↑Sun Jan 08, 2023 10:07 am

dan7800 wrote: ↑Sun Jan 08, 2023 10:05 am For Vanguard customers, using FSKAX instead of VTSAX in TA accounts seems to make a lot of sense. This would enable them to use VTI/ITOT as TLH partners in taxable accounts while not triggering any wash sales.

Any thoughts regarding this? I'm considering moving all of my VTI in my TA to FSKAX just to make TLH easier.

Why not use SCHB and avoid the transaction fee?

I do not believe that FSKAX has a transaction fee.

For Vanguard customers, using FSKAX instead of VTSAX in TA accounts seems to make a lot of sense. This would enable them to use VTI/ITOT as TLH partners in taxable accounts while not triggering any wash sales.

Any thoughts regarding this? I'm considering moving all of my VTI in my TA to FSKAX just to make TLH easier.

Hello, I am a New York State resident, filing jointly in the 24% tax bracket. Would it make more sense for me to keep my ex US (VXUS/IXUS) in my taxable, or tax advantaged account? Ive been adding ex us to my taxable since I assumed that the FTC made this slightly advantageous, but I obviously could be wrong. Note, I always fill up my ROTH & 401k each year, and I only buy VTI or VXUS/IXUS & total bonds with any new contributions. Thanks all -Dan Just checking on this. Based upon previous threads, it SEEMS Like it is likely not much difference if international is held in taxable vs tax friendly? I am just wondering if any NYS or CAL (high tax st) residents ever did the math to determine if international should be held in taxable or ...

bg5 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 04, 2023 7:09 pm So as you can see I def got enough money in the budget to get better cars....but for some reason those things above are more important to me

I am the same way and your story sounds really similar to mine.

I am somewhat in the same boat. When I was a young, single guy I was saving about 80% of my earnings. With 2 kids and a "real" house, I am unable to save nearly this much, but I still save.

What gives you peace of mind? Saving an ample amount for retirement, my kid's college and sufficiently saving for our retirement plans give me mine. If someone got sick, my family would be taken care of financially due to our savings. That gives me more peace of mind than a brand new car every 3 years could.

I am considering exchanging VTSAX for FSKAX in my Vanguard TA accounts. The reason is that this way, I can avoid any wash sales (enabling me to switch from VTI/ITOT in my taxable account and keep things simple).

Thoughts?

Hello, I am a New York State resident, filing jointly in the 24% tax bracket. Would it make more sense for me to keep my ex US (VXUS/IXUS) in my taxable, or tax advantaged account? Ive been adding ex us to my taxable since I assumed that the FTC made this slightly advantageous, but I obviously could be wrong. Note, I always fill up my ROTH & 401k each year, and I only buy VTI or VXUS/IXUS & total bonds with any new contributions. Thanks all -Dan Just checking on this. Based upon previous threads, it SEEMS Like it is likely not much difference if international is held in taxable vs tax friendly? I am just wondering if any NYS or CAL (high tax st) residents ever did the math to determine if international should be held in taxable or ...

Hello, I am a New York State resident, filing jointly in the 24% tax bracket. Would it make more sense for me to keep my ex US (VXUS/IXUS) in my taxable, or tax advantaged account? Ive been adding ex us to my taxable since I assumed that the FTC made this slightly advantageous, but I obviously could be wrong. Note, I always fill up my ROTH & 401k each year, and I only buy VTI or VXUS/IXUS & total bonds with any new contributions. Thanks all -Dan Just checking on this. Based upon previous threads, it SEEMS Like it is likely not much difference if international is held in taxable vs tax friendly? I am just wondering if any NYS or CAL (high tax st) residents ever did the math to determine if international should be held in taxable or ...

The Adirondacks are gorgeous during the summer. I highly recommend.

Hello, I am a New York State resident, filing jointly in the 24% tax bracket. Would it make more sense for me to keep my ex US (VXUS/IXUS) in my taxable, or tax advantaged account? Ive been adding ex us to my taxable since I assumed that the FTC made this slightly advantageous, but I obviously could be wrong.

Note, I always fill up my ROTH & 401k each year, and I only buy VTI or VXUS/IXUS & total bonds with any new contributions.

Thanks all
-Dan

It sounds like this whole thing has gone to crazy town. Emails back and forth? I would not continue with that. Get a home inspector to come out and make a diagnosis and write a report. Get quotes to fix the problem from other contractors. Schedule a meeting with your initial contractor and present the diagnostic report. Give them the opportunity to fix the work or pay what it would cost to have someone else fix it. If this does not resolve the issue, I would go to small claims court. However, it would need to be enough expense involved to make that worth it and only you can determine that. This doesn't sound like a good contractor at all. Why would you think that they are capable of fixing an issue? Id: 1) Provide them with a written note ...

This is why you buy the haystack.

This is why you buy the haystack.

student wrote: ↑Fri Dec 02, 2022 10:04 am

dan7800 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 02, 2022 9:37 am

Target2019 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 02, 2022 9:34 am OP is restricted by Federal grants over the next 5 years as to working in AI etc. He posted this in the thread.

Restricted in taking on extra summer salary. This doesn't impact side gigs.

What are the regulations regarding side gigs at your university? At my R2, they must be reported, and there is always a chance that they say no.

I've done them in the past, never had any issues not reporting them. I believe they'd only care if it created a conflict of interest or it was directly federal dollars.

+1. Since you are in AI and you teach at a reasonably well-known US University and tenured, you are likely making a reasonably good wage. At my R2 university in MCOL university, my colleagues in the CS/E department make $90 (assistant professor) to $150 (full professor) before any grant money. Given that you have federal grant (as indicating in another post), you are likely a high achiever so I would guess that your salary is on the higher end of the scale. I have three comments. 1) You have 529s. Does your university provide free tuition (or heavily discounted) to your kids? If so, you can probably send your kids to your school and divert money from 529s. 2) You mentioned that you could adjunct but not with that salary. I am surprised tha...