Bogleheads.org

Did you try to enter a purchase of $20,000? The tables are only generated for real amounts that can be purchased. If you did try to enter a 20k ibond, you will have to split it into two 10k entries. Each Series I Bond requires the following information: Issue Date of I Bond in MM/YYYY format A valid Original Value. Valid values are $25, $50, $75, $100, $200, $500, $1,000, $5,000, or $10,000 You don't really need to impose this limitation. Just always pull from the $25 table and then scale the result by Original Value/25. That's how it's calculated internally anyway. Or you can just pull from the other site that's often mentioned here, which has a simpler table and also handles any base amount up to 10000, eg =index(ImportHtml("https:/...

Update 2.2.2023:
This issue seems to have been resolved and the 1099-R's are now displayed correctly in the "New" Tax forms & Information page. If I'm going to point out when it is broken I may as well point out when it is fixed!

ramram22 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 30, 2023 11:48 am Damn it. I had no problems setting this up earlier in the month, but I just tried adding $20,000 in new I Bonds and it's not adding this to my previous balance. Any ideas?

Did you try to enter a purchase of $20,000? The tables are only generated for real amounts that can be purchased. If you did try to enter a 20k ibond, you will have to split it into two 10k entries.

csmath wrote: ↑Wed Nov 02, 2022 10:38 pm Each Series I Bond requires the following information:

• Issue Date of I Bond in MM/YYYY format
• A valid Original Value. Valid values are $25, $50, $75, $100, $200, $500, $1,000, $5,000, or $10,000

If that isn't the issue, please PM me a bit more detail of the entry you are trying to make and I will problem solve it.

I don't think you did something that was "not-ok". I think some people are just passing their judgement unfairly. If fidelity had objections, they wouldn't have allowed online systems to do it. Tiny difference between someone who made transfers in the past and someone who knows they are trying to get around written guidelines. I mean, there is passing judgment, and then obvious skirting of rules that you can just point to without any judgements being made. If fidelity had objections, they wouldn't have allowed online systems to do it. Clearly online systems sometimes allow for things that were not intended. Even if the programmers never got the message. Online forums are also full of opinionated and frustrated individuals who dar...

Just because I was curious... then I got bored. Vanguard January 2013: https://www.tmag2.com/documentlibrary/131_Vanguard%2010%20year%20outlook_01142013.pdf The expected return differential between U.S. and non-U.S. equity portfolios is not statistically significant Vanguard 2014: https://static.fmgsuite.com/media/documents/7087448e-64fa-4478-a561-2a5e57b23cb3.pdf the long-term median expected return for U.S. equity versus global ex-U.S. equity in Figure III-8may suggest that the expected U.S. equity market return may undercut both its own historical average and the expected global ex-U.S. equity return. Vanguard 2015: https://silo.tips/download/vanguard-research-december-2015-2 The expected return outlook for non-U.S. equity markets is mod...

Cheez-It Guy wrote: ↑Wed Jan 25, 2023 4:13 pm Also, on the old format page, the IRAs do not say Brokerage. That's why. Next year you'll be right as rain. This actually exemplifies or typifies the issues of supporting two different platforms on an ongoing basis.

True. The taxable event occurred while the accounts were on the old platform, so that makes sense. I guess my issue was that I didn't think transitioning accounts was an account "closure".

Regardless, maybe the OP will help someone else not have to search for them

OP, You first noticed you have three tax dorms available, but you only see the one, based on the statement below, right? All 3 of your tax forms are now available So, you are informed you have three tax forms. Did you miss this, directly below the bolded statement above, Vanguard states this: Tax forms that do not show here, (and why) Had you clicked on the link you would have seen this: Closed accounts: You won't see tax forms for accounts you closed last year. To view these forms, visit our old tax form page. Form 1099-DIV: You won’t get a 1099-DIV if you received less than $10 in dividends last year. Form 5498: These forms aren’t available until May (and aren’t needed to file your tax returns). I did see the link, had clicked the link, ...

One note first, we transitioned our accounts to the new brokerage platform this year. Maybe our issue was related to that? Below is what I see when I log into to get my tax forms on the "great" new Vanguard website. The one with huge text and white space everywhere. As you can see, it says that all 3 of my tax forms are now available. Of course, only one is shown, the Consolidated 1099. It is missing 2 of the 3 tax documents, and no, the other forms are not also in the Consolidated one. Am I missing a drop down menu somewhere to change the view in order to be able to see the other 2? I did not crop out anything relevant when taking the screen shot. Now look in the lower right corner. See that link to "View the old experience&...

I’m still using the old format at Vanguard. When I login it always prompts me to go the updated version. People didn’t like the new one. Is it better now? The new one is fine. People don't like change. Have you seen the new Wikipedia format? I don't like it but will surely get used to it. Same with the VG website. I like change. I was pretty quick to test out the "beta" version of Fidelity when I saw the option. I am absolutely dumbfounded that someone who used Vanguard's "Balances and Holdings" as their primary page could possibly like the new version better than the old one. I mean, maybe someone who believes in never checking their portfolio but doesn't have enough self discipline to not look all the time would like ...

It is as close to a certainty as possible that we are moving in the next couple of years. I put us in an ARM. It was the correct decision and is guaranteed to have a better outcome than the other options available. People that are saying that ARMs are never the correct choice are being hyperbolic about it. Our situation at the time: Guaranteed move within a couple of years of the remortgage Lowest available rate and monthly payment was ARM Enough liquid assets to almost fully pay it off if needed Have been earning a far higher, risk free, after tax return with the excess cash flow compared to the interest rate being paid for the remaining time we are in the home. Once you start considering the possibility of keeping a mortgage past the fixe...

Thanks for the update csmath! I wasn't sure if this would be maintained, and I just hadn't gotten around to looking at the formula myself to see how it could be fixed. This is very helpful, thank you! I prefer Google Sheets because that’s where I have my own total portfolio tracking spreadsheet as well. The only issue I’ve run into is with brand new bond purchases. In the “with penalty” section, it just says “Jan 1” with no value. I don’t know if Sheets is advanced enough to put a placeholder value in this case so it doesn't throw off the top totals. I’ll still be using this either way. I'm glad you have found it useful. I just replaced the link target with a version that has completely overhauled how the data is retrieved and parsed. This...

Fun times. This is the first price increase for this deal since I started taking advantage of it in 2018. I updated the OP with the 2022 info for future reference. Let's do it all again in about 11 months.

Good luck with all of your tax forms and filings!

dubsem wrote: ↑Tue Nov 29, 2022 7:30 pm Can any of you please share how long it took to receive this confirmation email that you're enrolled in the offer? I'm curious if/when it'll show up.

Much longer than 10 minutes. Probably closer to 16 hours maybe?

DW & I, both have the Fidelity 2% cashback cards. We have been using for 20 years with CB going into Fidelity 529. This 529 has funded 2 years of full-time state college tuition for DD and is now changed over to 16 yr. old DS as beneficiary. Plan is to let it continue to accumulate & grow to be used for his last 2 years of state college tuition (will need some good markets for this to be accomplished). Overall, a great product! For some, this would be pretty tax inefficient correct? I don't think the Fido Cash Back rewards are taxable and many states give income tax deductions for 529's up until a certain annual level. Of course, for many, just having it on autopilot results in a higher savings rate. I'm not following this question...

Gronnie wrote: ↑Sat Nov 26, 2022 7:22 pm If I already have a joint account with spouse can we each open individual accounts?

Yes.

DW & I, both have the Fidelity 2% cashback cards. We have been using for 20 years with CB going into Fidelity 529. This 529 has funded 2 years of full-time state college tuition for DD and is now changed over to 16 yr. old DS as beneficiary. Plan is to let it continue to accumulate & grow to be used for his last 2 years of state college tuition (will need some good markets for this to be accomplished). Overall, a great product! For some, this would be pretty tax inefficient correct? I don't think the Fido Cash Back rewards are taxable and many states give income tax deductions for 529's up until a certain annual level. Of course, for many, just having it on autopilot results in a higher savings rate. Edit: ignore this post of mine....

exodusing wrote: ↑Sat Nov 26, 2022 3:12 pm

csmath wrote: ↑Sat Nov 26, 2022 2:17 pm

GreendaleCC wrote: ↑Sat Nov 26, 2022 1:52 pm It seems Amazon throwing in the $10 gift card in the bundle is really short circuiting our collective analyses using Camelcamelcamel. The price didn't drop, but the effective value increased.

The gift card doesn't change anything because it is what we were expecting. The deal has included the gift card for years.

Have they offered a gift card deal before Christmas in prior years?

Yes.

csmath wrote: ↑Sat Nov 26, 2022 12:00 pm ... the source of the price history I am using is camelcamelcamel. Here is a link to the 2021 price history: https://camelcamelcamel.com/product/B09 ... xt=tracker

GreendaleCC wrote: ↑Sat Nov 26, 2022 1:52 pm It seems Amazon throwing in the $10 gift card in the bundle is really short circuiting our collective analyses using Camelcamelcamel. The price didn't drop, but the effective value increased.

The gift card doesn't change anything because it is what we were expecting. The deal has included the gift card for years.

Try using CamelCamelCamel.com to track prices on amazon and set up a price drop notice. I ran an amazon price history of the 2021 version and you can see how the price changes. You can see the Black Friday drop and then the drop on Dec. 29. https://3cmls.co/US/B09FW199HB So last year was the Black Friday price the same price as the post Christmas price? Yes it was, effective $30 for Deluxe. I concur with a prior poster that it is like $36 moving forward (as their holiday bottom price) due to inflation. No, I don't believe the Black Friday price was the same as the post Christmas price. Last years Black Friday sale was for $49.99. The post Christmas sale $39.99. And I'm not sure about your higher price "due to inflation" or else I...

Try using CamelCamelCamel.com to track prices on amazon and set up a price drop notice. I ran an amazon price history of the 2021 version and you can see how the price changes. You can see the Black Friday drop and then the drop on Dec. 29. https://3cmls.co/US/B09FW199HB So last year was the Black Friday price the same price as the post Christmas price? No. I believe in the recent past (5 years or so) there has been a single day between Christmas and New Years where the price has dropped to the absolute minimum. From the OP: According to records, after the gift card I paid the following for Deluxe Federal+State Desktop Download on Amazon.com: $32.38 - December 29, 2021 $32.38 - December 26, 2020 $32.38 - December 28, 2019 $32.37 - December...

nomorework wrote: ↑Fri Nov 18, 2022 3:47 pm The news regarding war, layoffs, economy, etc is eating at me. I KNOW I SHOULD STAY THE COURSE BUT CANT I would like to take my investments and put all in a safer position.

This seems like a good place to drop this:

F150HD wrote: ↑Wed Jan 08, 2020 9:14 pm Interesting to look back.....lots of noise.
-

-
https://www.marketwatch.com/story/stocks-are-up-495
-

It sounds like neither of you fully prepared for parenthood. You were already stressed with the first child then you had a second, compounding the problems you already had. You're both high income professionals that don't have time for raising children. All I heard in this post was how this impacted YOUR life and you have no time to yourself. Welcome to parenthood! What about the kid's lives? I suspect this as well. My kids are 9 and 12 and I honestly find this more challenging and our lives more busy than the daycare years with sleepless nights. Homework and grades actually matter and luckily they seek our help as they navigate relationship drama. Take a step back and evaluate how you want your new family life to play out. Good luck. Yeah...

For my first couple of cars, I followed what the dealer recommendations and discovered that I paid for a lot of unnecessary services. (My knowledge on cars is minimal.) For my last car (Toyota), I checked owners forum and made sure that I only do what Toyota had recommended. I currently own a 2019 Hyundai Ioniq. It is at 16k miles. Due to the pandemic, I only drove about a 1k-2k per year in 2021 and likely the same in 2022. Today I finally brought the car to the dealer for oil change and tire rotation. (Last year, I did an oil change at one of those places that customers can stay in their cars.) The dealer recommended the following after an inspection. 1) Change the air filter. 2) Clean and lubricate real brakes. 3) Flush the brake fluid. ...

In my experience this won't decrease your credit score provided you have other cards on the side sitting unused. Five cards each with $30k = $150k limit. You'd only be utilizing 20% (hypothetical.) My stack of cards would be an inch thick! I open new cards various reasons but seldom close them. I got dinged for 30-50 points when one card with a 0% offer hit 50% of its limit, even though that amount of credit was 5%ish of my available credit and I was making the required monthly payments. (Only other debt was a mortgage that's less than 1 year's salary.) Out of curiosity, do you remember how long your credit score took to recover after you paid off the balance? It's tough to say. I noticed the hit, got it below 50%, then paid it off a two m...

exodusNH wrote: ↑Tue Nov 15, 2022 8:50 am

sunny_socal wrote: ↑Tue Nov 15, 2022 5:45 am In my experience this won't decrease your credit score provided you have other cards on the side sitting unused. Five cards each with $30k = $150k limit. You'd only be utilizing 20% (hypothetical.) My stack of cards would be an inch thick! I open new cards various reasons but seldom close them.

I got dinged for 30-50 points when one card with a 0% offer hit 50% of its limit, even though that amount of credit was 5%ish of my available credit and I was making the required monthly payments. (Only other debt was a mortgage that's less than 1 year's salary.)

Out of curiosity, do you remember how long your credit score took to recover after you paid off the balance?

I'm in open enrollment and wanted to get some advice on HDHP v/s PPO plan for 2023. We're expecting a baby in June next year and were contemplating which plan should we go with: I don’t mean to sound like a broken record in these PPO vs HDHP threads but… PPO vs HDHP is usually a false comparison. PPO and HDHP aren’t necessarily mutually exclusive characteristics. For example, I have an HDHP PPO plan that I chose over several other options, one of which was a NON-HDHP PPO. Is your HDHP a PPO plan too? Most that I have seen are, but they don’t need to be. For what it is worth, I think you should go HDHP+HSA if you are going to actually utilize the HSA to its fullest. In my experience it doesn’t complicate anything with regards to working wit...

Are there any Boglehead rules of thumb for choosing between HDHP and PPO, based on the parameters of each? In my case (all figures are for family of 6): The yearly premiums for the HDHP are about $500/year less than PPO The employer contributes $1500/year to my HSA The deductible for HDHP is $3000 for the HDHP vs. $1000 for the PPO Out-of-pocket max for both plans is $7000 (same) Prescription drug coverage is "80% after the deductible", which basically means zero drug coverage in my situation as far as I can tell. I understand everything about the HSA and what a great account it is. I'm sure some people would go HDHP just to have the HSA, but I already can't afford to max my 401ks and IRA, so HSA wouldn't give me any additional t...

123 wrote: ↑Sat Nov 12, 2022 6:11 pm Life insurance is typically bought to provide protection to family members if the insured passes away and the support provided by the insured lost. If no one is dependent upon you for support/income you may not need any life insurance.

This rings true to me.

White Coat Investor wrote: ↑Sat Nov 12, 2022 3:16 pm

hammond wrote: ↑Sat Nov 12, 2022 11:16 am I am a boglehead for the most part. I was recently talking to a friend about their investments. He was mentioning that in 2020, he bought some SPY calls and was able to turn 75k into 1.8m.
Soon they upgraded their lifestyle and now have like a 4m house.

Anyways, I am having huge FOMO because of this. To me the boglehead way seems like the slow and steady way. How do folks avoid fomo?

Go blow $75K on SPY calls. You'll either get rich like your friend or cure yourself of your FOMO.

$75k of Powerball last week could have had a higher ROI!

I use the term zero sum game as it was used by Vanguard and Mr. Bogle as reasons for a passive investment strategy. Here’s a link. I think your disagreement may be more semantic. If any net positive return is considered a winning bet, then I agree that playing the market can be a non-zero sum game. I think that’s a too low of a bar for me, and probably not a useful paradigm for the OP to make investing decisions. If I use the market average is the baseline for comparison, as described in the reference above, then it is a zero sum game because (unlike in Lake Wobegon) not everyone can be above average. Thanks for the link, and yes, certainly a bit of semantics. I haven't read through it all yet but it is interesting to me see "zero-sum...

If you buy a stock and hold, it's not necessary that there are winners and losers, right? In the sense that the pie can grow larger. The market is a zero sum game. For every invested dollar that beats the market, another invested dollar must lag behind the market. If you buy and hold a stock, you probably do so because you believe it would beat the market. The person/institution selling it to you bet that it would lag. Only one of you will win this bet. Yes - the pie got bigger, but one of you ended up with a smaller slice than you could have gotten if you hadn’t made that trade. Emphasis above is mine. That does not sound like a zero-sum game. It sounds like there is a positive sum that gets split in a way where some people get more than ...

You know even the worst estimates of rising sea levels are like 1-2 feet in a century or something right? So if it's not in a flood zone now, it won't be later. I'd say if the house is 15+ feet above sea level I wouldn't worry about it. is this true? I have friends who live in Troy PA which has an elevation of 1099 feet (source: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=elevation+troy+pa) and yet they had the worst flood in 2018 (source: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=troy+pa+flood) and my friend's finished basement (with a bedroom and bathroom) was flooded (they live up on the side of a mountain in fact). They had video showing the water running out of their basement down the mountain when they ope...

This thread title made me think of this news story I ran into earlier today: Mostly underwater parcel of land spread across 4 acres is one sale for $43 million in Boca Raton

So I decided to completely revamp my old Excel workbook that computed values without using a macro, but only for one I Bond. My new I Bond Calculator handles multiple single I Bond sheets with a "Portfolio" sheet that summarizes them. Here is that sheet showing values each month in 2022 pulled from the six sample single bond sheets in the workbook: Sum -> 60,000 96,068 96,628 97,192 97,868 98,648 99,468 100,312 101,172 102,036 112,984 124,096 125,232 Sheet Fixed Face Name Issued Rate Value Jan 22 Feb 22 Mar 22 Apr 22 May 22 Jun 22 Jul 22 Aug 22 Sep 22 Oct 22 Nov 22 Dec 22 Bond1 9/1/1998 3.4% 10,000 36,268 36,476 36,684 37,004 37,324 37,648 37,972 38,304 38,636 39,048 39,468 39,888 Bond2 10/1/2000 3.6% 10,000 33,740 33,940 34,140 ...

Andrews Federal Credit Union is offering a 7- month CD at 5%, but it states that all CD's will automatically renew to a 12-month CD. I am wondering if this is required or if it would be possible not to renew. I have sent this question to AFCU and am awaiting a response. Anyone know? In my experience, CD's directly from banks almost always have an "automatic rollover" to some specified CD. Special offers are usually rolled over into a more traditional duration. Like in your example, a 1 year duration CD. Somewhere you will find language about the "grace period" that you have to withdrawal the funds from the CD. Usually once you establish a CD you will be able to edit settings for that specific CD with regards to what hap...

Also this statement is in the FAQ, but I don't understand the meaning: "FSA funds available to you in one lump sum at the beginning of your plan year" Is that like an advance of the funds I am expected to contribute for that year? FSAs work a bit different than HSAs. If you commit to contribute a total of $2000 during open enrollment, then it is immediately available to you at the start of the plan year. So when you pay $1000 for contacts in March, you can immediately submit the receipt and get reimbursed even if your paycheck deductions don't add up to $1000. It is best to submit a reimbursement request ASAP after the charge. This is consistent with my own experiences. You can get full reimbursement before the FSA contributions ...

I'm starting to do some end-of-the-year prep for 2022 taxes and figured the annual TurboTax "deal" thread was coming due soon. (Not the Fido Free TurboTax one!) If you are looking for a deal on TurboTax, I believe this is what you're looking for: I just got an offer for $10 off if I pre-order today. However, doesn't appear to be much actual saving since the fine print says "Price comparison based on anticipated price increase expected in March 2021." I use the desktop version. Any other better deals out there now or expected? I remember back in the day Vanguard gave free software to flagship members, but that along with most benefits seem to have gone by the wayside. I believe it was two years ago someone suggested setti...

Doom&Gloom wrote: ↑Fri Nov 04, 2022 12:27 pm Nifty little tool.
Thanks!

ETA: I Bond with purchase date of 10/1/22 is showing value of $10080 in the first column, but the second column is blank. Should it display something?

OK. Now it is fixed for real if you have Version: 11_04_2022.2

Funny you mention this. I have had https://www.chase.com/ bookmarked for quite a while just to make it quick to access. I don't remember when it happened, but at some point my browser setup completely disabled the "Sign In" button. I use a Firefox build with several extensions for added security, resistance to tracking, and filtering. The solution was to click the "Use Token" link above and to the right of the "Sign In" button. It takes you to this page: https://secure03b.chase.com/web/auth/#/logon/logon/chaseOnline?treatment=chase&lang=en. On that page, the "Sign In" button is active and I am able to log in. I get the 2FA notice every single time due to my setup, but I want it that way. I honestl...

DoubleComma wrote: ↑Thu Nov 03, 2022 9:27 pm I’ve seen a lot $80k kitchens and $25k bathrooms; simply using those as the guide post I think your easily looking at $250k and once you open a wall you can start finding $50k mandatory fixes.

Yes, and there are a lot of $80k kitchen plans and 25k bathroom plans that ended up being $150k and $40k plans too!

Worrying about load bearing walls is one thing but opening up a non-load bearing wall and finding unexpected hvac, plumbing, electrical or venting can be a whole other surprise too

Hi all, If I wanted to 'shape' a relatively square concrete pad (make it smaller, add angles, etc) is it relatively simple enough to do with a circular saw + diamond blade? If there's rebar in the concrete, will that be problematic? I did something like this about 18 years ago. I had way too much concrete and wanted to cut a walkway out of it and add landscaping on either side. You have received some pretty solid and thorough info already from a few posters but here is what I did and how it turned out. I rented a concrete saw and bought 2 blades. I was going to cut out the short walkway and also install an ejector pump in the basement so I cut through both basement floor and outdoor concrete slabs. My outdoor project had 1/2" rebar. I...

Doc7 wrote: ↑Fri Nov 04, 2022 7:02 pm But his website already has a tracking spreadsheet tool allowing any valid value available in the downloads section.

https://eyebonds.info/downloads/index.html

https://eyebonds.info/downloads/pages/I ... lator.html

You beat me to it. (see my post below yours)

Nifty little tool. Thanks! ETA: I Bond with purchase date of 10/1/22 is showing value of $10080 in the first column, but the second column is blank. Should it display something? This should now be fixed. Thank you for the heads up! No problem! I'm not terribly facile with spreadsheets, so I was afraid it might be something I had done. This gives me a simple and easily understood summary I can save to put with my other financial records so that whoever ultimately has to deal with them won't overlook any of our I Bonds. Not to mention my being able to see all of our I Bonds at a glance! Thanks again! Now if I can only remember to update it every month or two or three ... No problem and I'm glad you find it useful! I took a look at the calcul...

HueyLD wrote: ↑Fri Nov 04, 2022 6:35 pm A valid Original Value. Valid values are $25, $50, $75, $100, $200, $500, $1,000, $5,000, or $10,000.”

The valid values above are for PAPER I bonds only. Electronic bonds can be in any amount between $25 and $10,000.

Yes, but I'm pulling data from tables generated by #Cruncher's https://eyebonds.info/ibonds/index.html. and his site only generates tables for the values I listed. The values I listed are the only valid values for my workbook, not the only values you can purchase.

Doom&Gloom wrote: ↑Fri Nov 04, 2022 12:27 pm Nifty little tool.
Thanks!

ETA: I Bond with purchase date of 10/1/22 is showing value of $10080 in the first column, but the second column is blank. Should it display something?

This should now be fixed. Thank you for the heads up!

Feedback: 1) You should make it clear that the "Today's Date" field at the top should be filled in not as shown in the spreadsheet example, but as 'MM/DD/YY' with no spaces or bracket characters. 2) 3 of my 99 bonds failed to retrieve the external data source -- not your fault, but it is a bug of sorts. "Import internal error" was the reason given. 3) This seems like a pretty handy tool. Thanks. [Later] After eating lunch, I came back to my copy of the spreadsheet and it had miraculously healed itself of issue #2! Hallelujah :thumbsup Glad it is working for you. I replaced the [MM/DD/YY] with an actual date example. Thank you for the suggestion. Nifty little tool. Thanks! ETA: I Bond with purchase date of 10/1/22 is sho...

I made a Google Sheets to track the value of a Series I Bond Portfolio. I'm sorry if I missed that someone already posted a working one during the last few months of the I Bond frenzy! I thought I'd share it, so here it is: Get a Copy: Series I Bond Portfolio Tracker View First: Series I Bond Portfolio Tracker *You will need to be logged into a google account to save a copy to your Google Drive. It won't convert to .obs or .xlsx Credit for all of the Series I Bond values goes to user #Cruncher as I am pulling the data tables from his I Bonds website. Here is a link to his post: https://www.bogleheads.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=99008&p=1431302#p1431302 Link to his TIPS website: https://eyebonds.info/tips/ Link to his IBonds websi...

Two questions. 1) What exactly does the 5 digit code stand for on the Digital ibonds? The one of the form IAAAA, IAAAB, IAAAC etc. Is it just a way of indexing personal ibond purchases in a way other than the issue date? For example, does everyone get assigned IAAAA the first time they buy an ibond? 2) I didn't wait until the last minute. A couple of weeks ago I scheduled an ibond purchase as a gift for 10/29/2022 (Saturday) and on the confirmation page it showed a "Purchase Date" for the next available business day: 10/31/2022. At the time I was thinking this was fine but now after reading a few more posts and looking at the confirmation again I am realizing that this may mean that the issue date will be 11/01/2022, the next bus...

I'm not sure how handy you are with wood. Personally, I'd consider clamping a straight edge guide to the existing sill at the ends leaving enough room to run a circular saw along the front of the sill at a small angle to cut out most of the slope. I'd follow up a very sharp chisel and dremel type tool with course grit to shape the ends of the "channel" you are carving out. The result would create a slope that spans the full width of the window frame at the top but then narrows by about 1/2" to 1" on either side as it approaches the edge of the sill. Follow up with sanding, good exterior primer and paint. A little hard to describe what I'm picturing in my head and I didn't find any good examples with a quick google search...

kanjoos wrote: ↑Sat Oct 29, 2022 1:16 pm Hi,

My wife & I already have contributed our max for the last 2 yrs, and would like to open an account for our kids with the intent to start using that money for their sports/summer camps. If we open an account today and transfer money today, will it be processed by 10/31 and will give us the 6 month of interest of ~9%? We got occupied and did not realized it was 29th already.

Thanks in advance.

The short answer is, no.

The deadline was yesterday as the date of issue is 1 business day after the date of purchase. Sorry.