Bogleheads.org

I had the same thing in an account, and wanted to simplify, so I called them up and they did the conversion (VTSAX to VTI). There are no tax consequences, the value will be the same.

Has he visited the campuses? I'd think the very different vibes of these places would bring him to prefer one over the others.

Also, he could start and realize he wants to do something totally different. I started at MIT (literally a half-century ago) and left after four very-undistinguished semesters for an art and design school, which worked out very well for me.

Agree about the vicissitudes of shipping TV's: we bought our current TV (50" TCL Series 5 Roku) from Amazon, the first one had some lines in a corner of the screen image, they took it back and shipped another that was fine. I was glad not to go to the store.

Agree also with B&H as on outstanding company to deal with. In the Northeast, we get most things from them next day.

Remember that you can deduct your health insurance and medicare; also part of your house, part of your phone and internet, mileage, anything used for the business. Also look into that it can make sense to use a Roth 401K for self-employment, because of the reduction of income by 20% for QBI. I am mostly-retired, and one reason to keep doing it is all the tax benefits.

I think any of the options proposed above would be fine for the money.

A bigger concern is that they may need the money for themselves going forward. If your mom is bedridden, either she is being tended by her husband, or needs hired care. They may one or both need assisted living or nursing care. I hope they are willing to use the money for themselves, as required.

We had a similar choice 30 years ago, and bought the next house. Your new neighborhood sounds a lot nicer, less traffic, more trees.

I'd do it.

For us it's a subjective idea of what would be painful-- 40K value, we keep collision. 15K, self-insure.

If you an afford the loss, you're balancing personal pain points: what hurts more, paying the insurance or writing a very big check. And of course you pay the insurance company to bear the risk.

Might not be the issue here, but when I have this kind of problem I try a different web browser, and sometimes that works (switch to Chrome from Safari, for example).

Every single dollar in every single account is an emergency fund - including home equity. As far as tiering, i.e., sequence of pulling out: -Credit Cards -Checking -Savings -iBonds -HSA -Home Equity -Post-Tax -ROTH -Pre-Tax Accounts -529 Plan While I know what you are saying, I am going to push back on this concept because a lot of those investments don't fit the profile I would consider appropriate for an emergency fund especially for individuals under 59.5. I think this is just meant to illustrate the sequence in which you liquidate, at increasing levels of desperation, not that they are all optimal for quick cash. I think for most, they consider an emergency fund as money you can access quickly, that has stable principle, to carry you t...

I was reading this, people talking about their weddings 40 years ago, thinking, "come on, that's ancient history!"

Then remembered our wedding was 37 years ago...

It really is probably not about the caulking that you see, but about the underlying flashing that is over the window unit and between the window unit and the sheathing (under the trim and the siding) which keeps the water out.

There is nothing going to employer retirement plans currently aside from the pension contribution? No employer matching available? With 5k in debt payment due each month and 5 kids, before you have even started saving, you have put yourself into a bit of a tight area. I would forget going to a 6 month emergency fund and start plowing available money into pretax retirement accounts ASAP. That 1600 dollar post tax savings turns into 2000 per month pretax savings and you need to start compounding ASAP. That money can always be pulled out in an emergency if taxes and penalty are paid, and the biggest of emergencies (job loss) will almost certainly mean you are in a lower tax bracket thus it becomes about a wash. Consider ditching the 529s as w...

If he's got the paper statements he could take phone pictures of them or get them copied at Staples and mail them to you.

Did you have the house built, and can you contact the builder?

If not, I'd have another contractor look at it. There's a particular sequence of flashing tape that is followed when installing windows to keep the water out, and it sounds like that wasn't followed. I've DIY installed windows, and there's a way to apply the flashing so it doesn't leak. Whether your builder did that or not is unknown.

Did you have the house built, and can you contact the builder?

If not, I'd have another contractor look at it. There's a particular sequence of flashing tape that is followed when installing windows to keep the water out, and it sounds like that wasn't followed. I've DIY installed windows, and there's a way to apply the flashing so it doesn't leak. Whether your builder did that or not is unknown.

I second the suggestion to put money toward student loans; that's a guaranteed 5% after tax return, and at your income level you've got to earn well more than the amount you owe to pay that principal and interest. Like if you carry, say, a $100,000. balance, you'll owe an additional $5,000. next year on it, and you'll have to earn $7,000. to pay that, after taxes.

Thank you for the replies. From the research I have done, Amica looks like a good insurance company. A dividend policy is available in my state. But I am trying to validate the statement one agent made: "Called an Amica agent the other day and she stated that in the last 17 years (how long she has worked there), the auto and umbrella policy dividends have been 20% every year. And the home dividend every year." For those of you who have a dividend policy, does this match with what you have received in dividends each year? Getting this same % every year just seems too good to be true. thanks The dividend can vary; if they have substantial losses, it's not guaranteed. That said, what she said is probably true. You can get it quoted ...

For me the main idea is, the professionals who do this to make money (the banks and other lenders) won't do it. They see it as risky or unprofitable.

You are an amateur with one property, second-guessing them.

I'd sell it on the open market, invest the money, and go on with my life. This thing could by an anxiety-producing job for years.

A couple of notes on using the strobes:

For what you're doing, 400ws Godox might be more than you need. I use the AD200 Pro and they make a lot of light. They come with a mount that will take an umbrella.

You can try aiming your strobe into a far corner of the wall and ceiling, and softly raise the overall brightness in the room. With any modern digital camera you can use the moderately higher ISO's, like 800, with fine results. Also less bright flashes at your child.

Adorama sells the Godox strobes as their own Flashpoint brand. You get a nice case included, and they will just send you a replacement strobe if something goes wrong in the warranty period, rather than having you send it in for repairs.

We use the bank that's about a 10 minute walk away for a checking and money market account, just a couple of months worth of expenses.

Most of our money flows through there, so we get a picture of our overall transactions.

We can go there for cashier's checks, medallion signatures, cash deposits; things you need a person for.

I've always used Amica, excellent service. (fourth generation policy holder)

Just get them to quote the same coverages as your old policies, get versions with and without dividends, and compare. The dividend percentages are different for different kinds of insurance (umbrella, homeowners, auto)

Compare the prices to what you've got now.

The other alternative is to get an independent agent to quote for you, see what they come up with.

I'm glad my parents used a trust company for their investments.

Less than 1% fee, accounts were basically 80/20 with a group of individual stocks and treasuries. They transferred a certain amount to checking each month, dealt with IRA distributions.

Now that both have passed, they're dealing with distributing the trusts, dividing the IRA, administering ongoing accounts.

Really a valuable service. I would probably do something similar in later life.

I've used goodrx.com to get much lower prices on drugs not in the Medicare formulary.

They've got a mail-order option, but it costs $10. per month; I've found them more useful for lower prices at alternate local pharmacies.

I'd look at the various sources and price your particular prescription.

Stinky wrote: ↑Thu Feb 23, 2023 4:54 am

Lukesmom wrote: ↑Wed Feb 22, 2023 8:31 pm
Thank you for your empathy and sound advice. My Dad is upset by this situation, but I told him he won because he’s still here.

Let us know what you (and he) decide to do.

Given the choice between living 89 years and having my heirs collect on an insurance policy on my life, I sure know which I would choose…..

Definitely, that's the whole idea of life insurance, to provide for dependents if you pass early.

If you decide to drop it, do something nice with your dad-- go out to dinner, take a scenic drive, watch a positive movie (Forrest Gump comes to mind, or whatever). Enjoy the being alive!

Kenkat wrote: ↑Thu Feb 16, 2023 2:07 pm

tibbitts wrote: ↑Thu Feb 16, 2023 10:26 am

FireSekr wrote: ↑Thu Feb 16, 2023 8:49 am There is definitely a lot of plastic in newer cars, but I haven't really seen that translate into reliability or repair issues.

Regarding plastic, what about yellowing headlight housings? Sealed beams used glass and it never yellowed that I was aware of. Has any manufacturer solved the yellowing headlight issue?

I’ve had good luck with headlight restoration kits when this has occurred in the past:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AIZ5HY/

Another vote for the 3M Headlight restoration kit. My 10 year old car had very fogged lenses, they looked new after using the kit. Mask off the paint around the headlights and allow a full hour or so for the job.

Beensabu wrote: ↑Sat Feb 11, 2023 2:53 pm

robphoto wrote: ↑Sat Feb 11, 2023 2:48 pm

Beensabu wrote: ↑Sat Feb 11, 2023 2:40 pm As a Chrysler (not a van) driver, I will tell you this: pop the hood and see if you can find the battery. The actual battery, not the terminals. If it is hidden, then the vehicle will need to be put on a lift for literally freakin' everything...

The Town and Country has a standard battery in the engine compartment.
The Pacifica has two batteries, a regular battery and a smaller auxiliary battery next to it, also in the engine compartment where you expect it.

Yes, but where in the engine compartment?

If you look up, "Pacifica engine compartment" or "Pacifica battery location" you can see it on the driver side front under an air tube that just pops out to access it.

Beensabu wrote: ↑Sat Feb 11, 2023 2:40 pm As a Chrysler (not a van) driver, I will tell you this: pop the hood and see if you can find the battery. The actual battery, not the terminals. If it is hidden, then the vehicle will need to be put on a lift for literally freakin' everything...

The Town and Country has a standard battery in the engine compartment.
The Pacifica has two batteries, a regular battery and a smaller auxiliary battery next to it, also in the engine compartment where you expect it. In some Pacifica's the auxiliary battery is under the passenger footwell, you lift the carpet to get to it.

There are Pacifica's with 8 Passenger: here's a YouTube video of one for sale: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rYdY3PGG-f0 There are also 8 Passenger Town and Country's, but it's not a common option. If you don't need 8 passengers, you've got a lot more options. There's also the Chrysler Voyager, which is basically a low-trim-level Pacifica. These are mostly fleet sales, and you can get them a couple of years old with 50-60,000 miles from Hertz, etc. for about 20K. None are eight passenger that I know of. The latest Town & Country's are 2017. I'd get the newer Pacifica if you can. That said, I've had a 2015 Town and Country for a couple of years which has been good. Definitely don't buy one till a mechanic has given it a thorough review...

Like they said, for particulates an N95 is very good, and you can use the kind with an exhaust vent if you're not using it inside around people. If you don't need quite that level, the KN94 masks have a pretty good fit and I find them more comfortable, but with a better seal than the generic blue surgical masks.

If it's to filter out solvents and chemicals, you need to use a cartridge-type respirator. When properly worn you can't smell anything around you, but you'll definitely have that gas mask look.

Really, those are always the choices. Which do you really want?

- you enjoy working, but would like to live a little more luxuriously?

- there are things you want to do now, rather than work so much?

- you'd like to move your retirement forward, or increase your retirement spending level or odds of success?

You can make decisions to balance these (or other desires) to your taste. This is a pretty fortunate set of choices.

That Subaru Outback is not real compact-- get into the SUV's you're considering to compare. If you want something compact, nice, and not too expensive you could look at the Toyota Venza; a little more posh than the RAV4.

If you get a compact SUV, you'll probably get something bigger if you've got two dogs when you get the second kid, just a guess.

Are you able to get a mortgage? You could then pay off over a few years, if you want, without the big all-at-once capital gains income.

Are these four stocks the only thing you've got to sell? you could look at the percentage of capital gains in each, and sell the ones with a lower percentage of gains.

Also, if you can identify the lots of stock you've purchased, you might be able to sell the lots with less gains (bought at a higher price than other lots).

Not sure if you just want things to look fresh, if you are thinking of selling, or if it's your forever home. If you're not changing the layout, one option is to put new doors and drawer fronts on everything, and replace the countertop with whatever is the current fashion. One can also have a cabinets that are solid, but in a not-current finish or color, professionally repainted. These are much lower cost options. If you're fine with spending the money and think you'll be there for a while, go ahead and do it all new: -- look at the home magazines and clip things you like -- talk to three of the local kitchen/bath outfits and see what they've got to offer, and their suggested plans -- talk to any friends who've done kitchens lately, see wha...

The base model Sonicare (1100) is 24.97 from Amazon, that's what we're using now, seems to work great. Note that they don't include the USB charger "block" (the part that plugs in the wall outlet)with it; I think most people have some of them kicking around. It does have the quadrant timer and choice of two speeds.

Definitely set your savings amount-- "pay yourself first," or more accurately, "pay your future self first," then your present self can enjoy the rest.

I totally sympathize with feeling discomfort in spending-- I was a broke student, then lived on very low income for years, and that still colors my thinking, but now my future self is fully funded, and I try to spend appropriately for my present self and family. Though I can still be maddeningly frugal!

Have you asked them if they would sell the car to you (if you want it)?

Also, worn tires and a couple of scuffed wheels doesn't sound major at the end of 5 years.

I'd get the car clean in and out, go there to turn it in without mentioning your concerns, and see what they say. If you mention the tires and wheels, you've already conceded a lot to them so the negotiation starts strongly to their advantage. They don't necessarily want to aggravate you for no reason, you might be pleasantly surprised.

If they call out lots of charges to you, then you'll have a basis for deciding your course of action.

Yeah these basically just went into effect. We bought our 2021 Hybrid and were surprised how loud it was. Especially in an underground parking garage below an apartment. I looked it up at the time, apparently the law was passed back in 2010, didn't get the final rule until 2018, and then implementation started second half of 2019. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_vehicle_warning_sounds Talk about a very slow process. The choir of angels is a good name for it. We always just call it the spaceship. Edit: I don't mind it. Since I drive a Prius and it has an extremely annoying reverse beep inside the car. You can turn off that inside-the-car reverse beep, or in our case we had them change the inside car to just one beep, so you know yo...

We've got a RAV4 PHEV, and the sound of that is much more noticeable than the whoosh spaceship sound of our former Prius V.

If you're worried, just go to the dealer of the car you want and listen.

It's a pretty distinctive sound; there are a couple of other RAV4 PHEV's in our neighborhood, and I can identify them by that sound.

Not sure what is optimal in your case, but you can have both Roth and Traditional Solo 401K

Parkinglotracer wrote: ↑Mon Jan 23, 2023 4:28 am

spth wrote: ↑Sun Jan 22, 2023 9:29 pm 2014 Sienna front wheel drive. 8 passengers. Holds 4x8 sheet of plywood. No issues/repairs yet.

same here ... runs like a champ and can tow 3500 lbs. i was thinking of getting a TACOMA sticker for the back to make it cool.

With the newest Sienna you can't remove the second row seats because the airbags are part of the seats, so they have electrical connections. Or, you can remove them, but it involves a lot of unbolting and and electrical disconnection. So there's no 4x8' lie-flat floor.

I'm a fan of our Chrysler Pacifica. It has a fantastic ride, a proven engine and it will hold a 4x8 sheet of plywood with the hatch down. Most minivans cannot. +1 for Chrysler Pacifica (never thought I would own a Chrysler!) Plus the 2nd and 3rd row seats stow in the floor - no removing (you don't realize how nice this is until you had two vans that you had to remove them, then store them in your garage, then lift them back in, etc). Good to know! As far as you know are all the Pacifica years offering the 2nd and 3rd row seats that stow in the floor? Thanks. With Pacifica, the all-wheel-drive version, the hybrid, and the Pinnacle trim don't have stow-n-go for the second row. I have an AWD Pacifica with the rear seat currently stowed. It's ...

ruanddu wrote: ↑Sun Jan 22, 2023 4:22 pm

CenTexan wrote: ↑Sun Jan 22, 2023 12:08 pm

Woodshark wrote: ↑Sat Jan 21, 2023 7:34 pm I'm a fan of our Chrysler Pacifica. It has a fantastic ride, a proven engine and it will hold a 4x8 sheet of plywood with the hatch down. Most minivans cannot.

+1 for Chrysler Pacifica (never thought I would own a Chrysler!)

Plus the 2nd and 3rd row seats stow in the floor - no removing (you don't realize how nice this is until you had two vans that you had to remove them, then store them in your garage, then lift them back in, etc).

Good to know! As far as you know are all the Pacifica years offering the 2nd and 3rd row seats that stow in the floor? Thanks.

With Pacifica, the all-wheel-drive version, the hybrid, and the Pinnacle trim don't have stow-n-go for the second row.

Have you gotten a quote to repair your Odyssey?

There's a lot of cost in changing cars-- could by 3,000. - 4,000. just for sales tax!

JDave wrote: ↑Sat Jan 21, 2023 5:37 am Kamakura, Japan, and anything Disney.

Interested in what you didn't like about Kamakura? When we were there, seemed a pleasant enough day excursion.

While this is drifted off into nostalgia, I'll add that in 1975 an HP-35 calculator was 395., and my MIT tuition was 3,000. per year

Do you drive your car to Florida, or is this just for driving while in Florida? What are the systems used on your route to Florida?

Are you sure she's ok with sending the money "out of town?"

Our local credit union offers 4.5% on 2 year CD's; you could check with your local bank.

livesoft wrote: ↑Tue Jan 10, 2023 12:51 pm I had a Brooks saddle in 1974. It took quite a while to get it broken in and comfortable. Is that still the case?

My saddle definitely took some time to break in, but it was ok before break-in and great after.

You can get a pre-softened version: https://www.brooksengland.com/en_us/b17-softened.html but I haven't tried it.

Ok, I guess Brooks saddles have a correlation with Bogleheads posting. (B-17 here)

That said, I'd find a good bike shop and talk to them, rather than buying and hoping.

An earlier version of the Specialized Bridge Sport worked pretty well for me. Not cushy, but not as narrow and hard as a full-on road saddle.

The "running out of time in life" at 39 made me smile! It might help to think of your money in terms of when you need it, to worry less about whether it's going up or down at the moment. Do keep some cash, enough to get you through if you lose your job(s) and need to find another. Even money markets are paying 4 or so per cent now. For the rest, see if you can define what you will want to spend in a few years (major not-every-month purchases) and keep that money in bonds, or even CD's with a decent interest rate nowadays. The longer time frame, like retirement, that can be in a Target Retirement fund (at your age, that's mostly stocks) or a simple two fund (VTSAX+VBTLX) or three fund (add foreign stocks) portfolio, and don't worry...