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401(k)s We currently fully max our 401(k)s; to fix for currently-high-ERs, our plan is to do the following: - Mine (plan for each is BrokerageLink): 25% in bonds (BND/BNDX split), 25% in intl stocks (VXUS), 50% in US stocks (VTI); I may also consider FXAIX instead, however wanted to prioritize bonds into here - Spouse: 29% in bonds (Vanguard Institutional Total Bond Market Index Trust @ 0.02%), 25% in intl stocks (Vanguard Institutional Total International Stock Market Index Trust @ 0.05%), 46% in US stocks (Vanguard Institutional Total Stock Market Index Trust @ 0.01%) Is there any fee to use BrokerageLink? If so, I would explore not using it and picking low cost funds in the standard account. Thanks for the notes. Good q on the 401(k) fu...

Update Hi friends - I’ll admit it: I’m nervous! We’ve never invested anything outside of my roth IRA and our 401(k)s. But, after reviewing our plan, reading into each and every one of your comments, having some discussions in other threads here on BH, and reading into some additional research, we have decided the following! Note: I realize the %'s below may seem off, but I did confirm the final numbers align to my AA of 80% stocks/20% bonds. These %'s are specifically within each vehicle. Emergency funds We have 9 months (our goal) of emergency funds. Plan to have $10k each in i-bonds, ~50% in HYSA (currently at 3.5%), and the remaining % in CD ladder. Mortgage Only debt is mortgage; 5.125%, and paying extra towards principal monthly. My e...

Thank you all for the always-helpful comments and verifying in this case my intuition!

KlangFool wrote: ↑Mon Feb 20, 2023 12:34 pm
benevo,

From tax efficiency standpoint, if your AA is 80/20, you should be 100% stock in your taxable account and keep the 20% bond in your tax-advantaged accounts. I hope that is what you mean.

KlangFool

Hi KlangFool, that's correct; I aim to have 20% bonds in 401k, IRA, and HSA before any bonds are in taxable.

Hi folks! I was speaking with a financial advisor friend and wanted to run by something he mentioned that I'm not certain makes sense - but I also admit to being a bit more on the naive side of these things. :) I recently came into a windfall, let's say $100,000 just for the sake of this example. I planned on the typical approach - since my AA is 80/20, I planned to allocate the amount to 80% stock index fund, 20% to my bond index funds of my 3-fund portfolio (yes, I already fund fully my tax-advantaged accounts). However, my friend made the suggestion instead to put the majority of this $100k into a money market account where it will get the guaranteed 3.4-4% higher rate they are currently at, and instead of the lump sum into my index fund...

HomeStretch wrote: ↑Tue Feb 14, 2023 8:40 pm

benevo wrote: ↑Tue Feb 14, 2023 8:04 pm

HomeStretch wrote: ↑Mon Jan 23, 2023 8:45 pm It’s a good idea for your spouse to start a Roth IRA to get the 5-year clock on an initial Roth IRA started. BH wiki page on backdoor Roth:
https://www.bogleheads.org/wiki/Backdoor_Roth

… Do you have any good wiki article or documentation to explain the 5 year rule? …

Here’s an older article by Michael Kitces that explains the two five-year rules:
https://www.kitces.com/blog/understandi ... nversions/

Thank you!

HomeStretch wrote: ↑Mon Jan 23, 2023 8:45 pm It’s a good idea for your spouse to start a Roth IRA to get the 5-year clock on an initial Roth IRA started. BH wiki page on backdoor Roth:
https://www.bogleheads.org/wiki/Backdoor_Roth

Hi there! Do you have any good wiki article or documentation to explain the 5 year rule? I've done some research but have come back a tad confused and want to make sure I understand. Is it only a rule for withdrawals from the Roth - not deposits? So basically, as long as I and my spouse deposit into our traditional IRAs, do the conversion for the backdoor Roth, and then don't withdrawal - we can do this each year without penalty? (And then, after 5 years from our first deposit, we can then withdraw after that point?) Am I understanding that correctly?

ruralavalon wrote: ↑Fri Jan 27, 2023 11:22 am My personal preference is Vanguard for accounts and funds.

In your taxable brokerage account use very tax-efficient stock index funds. Examples include Vanguard Total Stock Market Index Fund (VTSAX) ER 0.04% and Vanguard Total International Stock Index Fund (VTIAX) ER 0.11%.

Would SWTSX and SWISX (understood your personal preference is Vanguard!) be similarly equivalent in tax-efficiency as VTSAX and VTIAX you mention?

And thanks to you and tashnewbie for the replies! tashnewbie good call out on bonds in 401k, and ruralavalon on prioritizing tax advantages account first. (We will be looking into back door IRA; max 401k today.)

toblerone wrote: ↑Fri Jan 27, 2023 1:07 am

benevo wrote: ↑Thu Jan 26, 2023 9:00 pm 55% SWTSX
25% SWISX

In the original post you said you wanted your AA to be 70/30, but this would put you at 80/20 (in taxable?), and the 100% stock in your 401ks would make your overall AA closer to 85/15. Did your risk tolerance change with newfound Boglehead confidence?

Otherwise yes, it looks great, and I would tweak the dials to make your overall AA 70/30, or whatever you want it to be. SWAGX for all of your fixed income seems fine to avoid an extra fund.

Haha honestly, yes, newfound Boglehead confidence indeed! After reading a bit more about some new (to us) ways of identifying our bond %, decided we liked theo 120-age rule. Since we're 35 and 40, going with 120-40=80. And thanks for your comments!

HomeStretch wrote: ↑Mon Jan 23, 2023 8:45 pm If you provide the info requested above and tell us which brokerage you want to use and whether you prefer mutual funds or ETFs, we can recommend some specific funds/ETFs.

After the helpful info in this thread and some further research, I’m considering the following and thinking of going with Schwab:

55% SWTSX
25% SWISX
18% SWAGX (or 15% SWAGX + 3% TBD - no Schwab equivalent to VTABX?)
(remaining 2% cash or SWVXX tbd)

And moving 401ks from FA FREEDOM 2045 (0.5% expense ratio) to FSKAX (0.0125%).

Would love any thoughts on this plan, and thanks again. Happy almost Friday to you all.
-be

toblerone wrote: ↑Tue Jan 24, 2023 1:32 am In both 401k I would move into the total market index fund, @ 0.015% ER. The funds you are currently in are costing you $1746 per year more just in expense ratios (assuming $360,000 in 401k).

Regarding cash, 5% is fine but as your portfolio grows larger it will become an unnecessary drag, at your age. I'm a fan of the three-fund portfolio and would not have a significant cash balance until closer to retirement.

Thanks! Would you recommend like 2% cash at our age then?

Edit- what is your mortgage rate and do you itemize deductions for your Federal tax return? If your mortgage rate is high enough, another option is to use some/all of the cash to pay down your current mortgage. Other comments: You have 34.3% in a single stock (CRWD). Consider de-risking and moving at least some of that to a diversified equity fund. There are tax consequences to selling in a Taxable account. What is the total unrealized gain or loss on CRWD? Do you have any individual tax lots with a loss or small gain? If you provide the info requested above and tell us which brokerage you want to use and whether you prefer mutual funds or ETFs, we can recommend some specific funds/ETFs. Thank you for the reply to you and all! To follow-up...

HomeStretch wrote: ↑Mon Jan 23, 2023 8:08 am With your income level and portfolio balance, you could easily manage your own taxes and investment management, if so inclined.

You will get the best feedback if you stop providing information in this thread and, as suggested by other posters, instead start a new thread with your complete financial picture in the “Asking Portfolio Questions” format linked by tashnewbie, above. You will get the best feedback that way. When you do post, you can add a link to your original post in this thread redirecting people to your new thread.

tashnewbie and HomeStretch, thank you and my apologies for missing the format info. I have posted a new thread as some suggested: viewtopic.php?p=7079913

Thanks again!

Hi all, After posting in the wrong format (my apologies!), I am taking the smart advice to post a new thread with this format. Hope I did it right this time, it's been a while since I've been on here and am usually a reader vs a poster. :) Original post: https://www.bogleheads.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=395715 Questions are listed below the details! Thanks ahead of time for your thoughts! Emergency funds: We have 9 months saved in a high-yield savings account (currently gaining 3.3%). Debt: We pay our credit cards off each month, and have no student loan debt remaining nor car loans anymore. We do have a mortgage: $560,000 remains (5.125%) and we pay the monthly due in full each month (+$400 extra towards principal) Tax Filing Status: Marrie...

Why not just use a target date fund? How are your 401ks and IRAs invested? Whatever course you end up on, it is probably worth your while to fill out the case study worksheet on the wiki, as any adviser will also need that information. A target date fund in taxable is not advisable, case in point - Vanguard which had certain institutional investors change share classes leaving the tax burden on the shoulders of the individual investors which held those target date funds. Nope. Since the OP is willing to take a bit of an active role, depending on their asset allocation, a simple 3-4 fund portfolio of broad based index funds would fit the "bill" so to speak just without the $5K price tag to go along with it. Don't know much about S...

novelbogle wrote: ↑Sun Jan 22, 2023 4:15 pm You should post in the suggested portfolio review format. If you do that, commenters can advise you on a low fee, tax-efficient allocation that fits your risk profile. It will be worth your effort.

Thank you; it’s been a while since I’ve been on here and completely forgot about that! I will do that. I presume it’d be best to start a new thread with that instead of replying with it here, is that a safe assumption?

Why not just use a target date fund? How are your 401ks and IRAs invested? Whatever course you end up on, it is probably worth your while to fill out the case study worksheet on the wiki, as any adviser will also need that information. A target date fund in taxable is not advisable, case in point - Vanguard which had certain institutional investors change share classes leaving the tax burden on the shoulders of the individual investors which held those target date funds. Nope. Since the OP is willing to take a bit of an active role, depending on their asset allocation, a simple 3-4 fund portfolio of broad based index funds would fit the "bill" so to speak just without the $5K price tag to go along with it. Don't know much about S...

sailaway wrote: ↑Sun Jan 22, 2023 3:28 pm Why not just use a target date fund?

How are your 401ks and IRAs invested?

Whatever course you end up on, it is probably worth your while to fill out the case study worksheet on the wiki, as any adviser will also need that information.

That may very well be all we need to do - I may be overthinking what is needed. All 401ks and IRAs are currently in Vanguard 2040 and 2045 funds. And thank you, will check that worksheet out!

Update: Portfolio review posted here: https://www.bogleheads.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7079913 Hi everyone, Long story short: my spouse and I are looking for how to best invest/place our money, as most of it is in high-yield savings + our 401(k)s vs investing in mutual funds, ETFs, or anything else. Hoping this forum can help! At the moment, we're between 3 options: - Vanguard Personal Advisor Services - Schwab Intelligent Portfolios Premium - Hire an independent financial advisor (there's one we're currently working with; not super loving him, but he is $5,000 annually if we proceed [currently just doing a small project with him]) We are both younger and high earners. Here’s the breakdown: - My age: 35 - My salary: $200k + bonus - My bonu...

aristotelian wrote: ↑Thu Sep 05, 2019 5:17 pm I am also confused about your income situation. If you are above the 22% bracket, you should be able to do more than a small amount to your Roth, especially now that you have no car or student loans.

I will be now - I wasn't yet as I (1) just recently started maxing my 401k (wanted to do that first), and (2) wanted to pay off my student loans with any extra money. Thanks!

HomeStretch wrote: ↑Thu Sep 05, 2019 3:47 pm Congratulations on paying off your student loans and car!

Good move to build up your emergency fund to 6 months. Is it in a high yield account?

What is your current mortgage rate? Do you have 20% equity? Does refinancing to a lower rate and to eliminate PMI, if applicable) make sense?

Thank you! Also thanks [and apologies!] for formatting - I have updated and provided some additional info.

Yes, my emergency savings are in a high yield (currently 1.9%) savings account. My goal is once I have 6 months, to setup a tiered approach in I-bonds and/or CD.

My current mortgage rate is 3.875%, and we had our house re-appraised and got rid of PMI last year!!

edited for formatting :happy Hi all, just doing a check-in on all my finances - I recently paid off (as in, this week!!) my student loans and I thought now was a great time to review my portfolio and allocations. I sincerely appreciate any advice, suggestions, etc.! Emergency funds: I am now focusing on building up my emergency fund even more; currently, I have about 4 months of expenses saved up. I'm shooting to hit 6 for now. Debt: My car and student loans are now both paid off as of September 2019 (car as of last year); I have a mortgage and am 4 years into a 30-year. Tax Filing Status: I file single, but live with my partner. Our expenses are shared, but [at this time] we keep our taxes separate until we get married. Tax Rate: Federal m...

Given that you are not married yet and possibly not even in fiancee status (?), I would be very very careful in using joint money to pay off personal loans at this point. Obviously your partner has input at this at a minimum, I would even argue you should not do your partners finances at all (or the joint accounts) - you two should keep things separate and just split the bills...otherwise, yes, get rid of the loan and start the next stage in life without that baggage (also true for your partner if also carrying student loans) Thanks! Totally understand your POV. We are however both looking at this together, and the emergency savings funds were funded completely on my part anyways. We've been in a committed relationship for 6 years and both...

Good afternoon! I'm curious what people think; long story short, the question is: should I pay off my student loans early? A bit of background: I refinanced my graduate student loans with Earnest back in July 2017. The minimum monthly payment was not a problem (actually a bit less than when they were federal loans), but I had just started a new job with a higher salary and made an effort to overpay each month - for a few months I was paying about 1.5x per month, and for the past 8-10 months consistently I've been paying almost 2.5x per month. Obviously, this has been great - and my projected payoff is now in January 2020! (If I payoff on that date, I will have paid my loans off in 6.5 years vs the full 10.) My partner and I share the majori...

Hi there!

Does anyone know of a good tool (or formula) to determine the benefits of max'ing your 401(k) at various times of the year? For example, if I max it in April vs October, how much more potential do I have to earn, etc.

Ideal would be a calculator that takes starting 401(k) balance into effect and, using the date entered, shows you how much you'd have extra in 5/10/20/etc years vs max'ing later.

Thanks for any advice!
-be

delamer wrote: ↑Tue Jan 08, 2019 9:10 pmIf you are concerned about your credit score, than it probably would be better to put them away rather than cancelling.

And, use them once a year or so, so that they don't cancel them for you!

onourway wrote: ↑Wed Jan 09, 2019 6:59 pm I don’t find PC to be terribly useful for this kind of tracking. I much prefer You Need a Budget which will make tracking this automatic.

+1

YNAB is a game changer, IMO.

Hi all! Not to get too audio geeky, but for anyone with the knowledge... I'm looking for a new pair of good quality, wireless headphones for work and while traveling. (So, they need to be closed-back.) Active noise canceling is not required, but it's nice as long as it can be turned on/off. I'm an amateur audio junkie, so something higher audio quality is preferred. I do realize this is very limited at the wireless/Bluetooth level. Currently leading the pack are the following, in no particular order: Audio Technica ATH M50XBT Sony WH-1000XM3 Sennheiser PXC 550 JBL Everest ELITE 700 Anyone have the opportunity to test a few or all of those out to help compare? I'd love to spend $200-$250 (USD), but am okay going up to $400. I really like a w...

Jimmie wrote: ↑Tue Jan 08, 2019 3:40 pm Lots of good suggestions and I congratulate you for your planning.

If you are good with spreadsheets, I would set up one with all the details and play with the variables to see what scenario yields the best results. You did not mention what the interest rate is with your mortgage, so that probably will influence the payoff scenarios as well.

Thanks for your suggestion! I will try that. Mortgage is @3.875.

USGrant wrote: ↑Tue Jan 08, 2019 3:00 pmI would definitely not put a penny extra toward the mortgage.

Thanks for your comments! Just curious your reasoning on this, thanks!

Hi gang! I had refinanced my student loans with Earnest last July, which was frankly one of the best decisions I had made - I brought my 6.8% federal loans down to 4.21% with the same benefits/protections for me. The minimum amount due each month with Earnest was $432.53 - I pushed that up to a payment of $1,090 each month. I have 14 months left instead of 35 as I would have been if I were paying the minimum. Yay! I am receiving a nice bonus this year in the amount of $14,000. My original plan was to do the same thing I did last year with my (lesser) bonus: put 25% toward my 401(k), 25% toward our shared expenses/extra to mortgage at home, 25% toward my student loans, and 20% toward emergency savings, and 5% toward spending money. Once I ha...

Thanks, all! All great info and responses - sounds like toggle bolts will solve this issue. As always, Bogleheads are my go-to for all sorts of knowledge!

mhadden1 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 02, 2019 2:54 pm An anchor in 1.5 inches of concrete should be fine for holding things like non-CRT televisions.

Thanks! Even if it's sitting in front of the gap/if it were pushed back would fall into the gap?

Hello Bogleheads, and Happy New Year!! We have an older (early 40s) home. In our unfinished basement, we use it for laundry and a home gym. I was looking to hang a TV on the concrete wall, and have the right screws and anchors. Upon drilling the holes, however, which are probably about 3" deep, the drill once it gets to about 1-1.5" in, suddenly goes straight in. I freak out a little, at first thinking how could this wall (the other side is the garage) be so thin? I look around in the garage though and the hole didn't go through. Upon closer inspection, it seems like there are 2 layers of concrete/brick with a gap in-between. Is this normal? A few people I asked had never heard of this, but granted they aren't pros in this area ei...

Hello!

I'm proud to say that we've been building up our emergency savings to a bigger number. Unfortunately, a leak is causing the need to rebuild part of our old chimney and it's a bit more than we want to take out of emergency savings. Since a HELOC is an option and having hemmed and hawed over a HELOC in the past, it seems like a good time to look into that.

I'm looking between DCU and Third Federal. I'm leaning towards DCU, but anyone used either and have thoughts on overall service? Do both have good mobile options? DCU is now a tad higher (5.0%), but they seem a bit more popular - Third Federal not as talked about, but 4.24%.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Still seems so odd. So the person who the check was made out to did not endorse the back of the check? I would have thought the check would not be accepted without the endorsement. Sounds like the check was presented and cashed out upon presentation (not deposited into any account)? Now that they have the name of the person who presented the check for payment (understand it is possible that is not the person who washed the check) and possibly where it was presented for payment is it not possible to track that person down? Perhaps this depends on where it was presented? Just trying to wrap my head around the facts in this case. Haha, you and me both! Yes, that's what it seems like to me. Police seemed very interested - I honestly thought th...

Update: Got a copy of the image of the check. They definitely cleared everything except my signature - super creepy. Pay to name, date, amount (with a cross out), the written amount, and the memo line. The memo line was changed and is now XXXX-XXXX-XXXX-XXXX (random numbers - bank account or CC #? Starts with 4117 which I think is Visa?). Also odd, you can almost see what appears to be the previous text a bit under the text on top. Bringing this to the police department this evening. Who was the pay to changed to? Where was it presented for payment - at a bank or elsewhere? Trying to understand how the check was accepted and how this person walked aaay with $6,000 cash. Made out to a person's name I've never heard of. And no clue. The back...

capsaicinguy wrote: ↑Wed Sep 26, 2018 6:06 am

benevo wrote: ↑Tue Sep 25, 2018 3:12 pm Update:

Got a copy of the image of the check. They definitely cleared everything except my signature - super creepy. Pay to name, date, amount (with a cross out), the written amount, and the memo line. The memo line was changed and is now XXXX-XXXX-XXXX-XXXX (random numbers - bank account or CC #? Starts with 4117 which I think is Visa?). Also odd, you can almost see what appears to be the previous text a bit under the text on top.

Bringing this to the police department this evening.

Maybe they put it on a prepaid Visa?

That's my bet! I didn't even know you could do that with a check. Ugh.

Update:

Got a copy of the image of the check. They definitely cleared everything except my signature - super creepy. Pay to name, date, amount (with a cross out), the written amount, and the memo line. The memo line was changed and is now XXXX-XXXX-XXXX-XXXX (random numbers - bank account or CC #? Starts with 4117 which I think is Visa?). Also odd, you can almost see what appears to be the previous text a bit under the text on top.

Bringing this to the police department this evening.

DavidRoseMountain wrote: ↑Tue Sep 25, 2018 9:36 am

benevo wrote: ↑Tue Sep 25, 2018 9:27 am Thanks all for the replies.

For those suggesting I file a police report - would I do that in the county/area I live in? I ask, because I live between 2 counties in 2 states - and may have mailed it from either one.

Based on the previous post it sounds like federal authorities, FBI, Postmaster need to have reports.

Would you recommend I let my bank know before I submit that report? Sorry if that's a dumb question.

Thanks all for the replies.

For those suggesting I file a police report - would I do that in the county/area I live in? I ask, because I live between 2 counties in 2 states - and may have mailed it from either one.

Sooooo, I had an interesting evening last night. I realized as I was doing some paperwork that someone I sent a check to a few weeks ago never cashed it. Upon logging into my checking account to look into it, I saw that the check *was* deposited - kind of. Instead of the $600 check I had written, instead it showed a transaction of $4,000!! :shock: The check number it showed on the account ledger online matched with the one I wrote - but because the date of the transaction processed yesterday, the image wasn't yet available. So, since my checking account bank has a very convenient live chat, I first hopped on there to see if perhaps it was another check and I just forgot writing it (really, I was just telling myself this, as I would've remem...

unclescrooge wrote: ↑Thu May 17, 2018 9:01 am Thanks. I'm in the market for a HELOC too.

Yesterday I got a quote from third federal for prime minus 0.76%, currently 3.99%. but it has a $65/year fee after the first year.

YW! In my eyes, if it's being used either for large purchase/renovation or for an emergency fund, either way it shouldn't have a fee. Maybe you can get it waived?

Good morning! Yet another HELOC thread, but one with a slightly different question. My partner and I are considering applying for a HELOC. I'm between three credit unions for servicing it: DCU/Digital Credit Union, Bethpage Federal Credit Union, and PenFed (in that order). DCU has the best rate of the 3 at the moment, and PenFed/Bethpage are tied (though, Bethpage has a 1-year promo rate that is much lower, yet likely wouldn't be used). DCU has some great reviews and I've read wonderful experiences of customer service. PenFed has a great overall reputation. I haven't heard or found much (positive or negative) about Bethpage - but it's the closest to us (as it is a NY-based credit union). For those of you especially with DCU and PenFed, hav...

Good morning! Yet another HELOC thread, but one with a slightly different question. My partner and I are considering applying for a HELOC. I'm between three credit unions for servicing it: DCU/Digital Credit Union, Bethpage Federal Credit Union, and PenFed (in that order). DCU has the best rate of the 3 at the moment, and PenFed/Bethpage are tied (though, Bethpage has a 1-year promo rate that is much lower, yet likely wouldn't be used). DCU has some great reviews and I've read wonderful experiences of customer service. PenFed has a great overall reputation. I haven't heard or found much (positive or negative) about Bethpage - but it's the closest to us (as it is a NY-based credit union). For those of you especially with DCU and PenFed, have...

What type of LLC? If it's single-member, which is what I have, I was able to do the work on my own and found it to actually be pretty interesting and not difficult (in New York, at least). If you're setting up a large LLC, you'd likely want an attorney's advice.

ReformedSpender wrote: ↑Thu Apr 05, 2018 1:51 pm Looks like solid progress in just 12 months. Congrats.

401k is utilizing VG Target 2040 fund yet IRA is in VG Target 2055? Why the difference?

I know it's not really diversifying, was just changing it up - do you think it's better to be the same?

On April 5, 2017, I posted my very-first post on this Bogleheads forum. (And, back in July, I posted an update on my overall finances.) I wanted to take a moment - exactly 1 year to the day after joining the Bogleheads community - to give an update on how far I've come, where my goals are, and where my savings is heading. I wanted to kinda just write this out as a journal in a way, but I would certainly love and appreciate any thoughts/suggestions as well. Each section in bold is an item from April or July of last year. And, on my 1-year Bogleheads anniversary (ha), I wanted to thank this awesome community for invaluable feedback, advice, and overall great material to learn and live by. Thank you! :beer Overview I'm 30-years-old, live with ...

Hello gang! I'm getting a quote in the next few days to rewrite my home's electrical. For background, we purchased it 2 years ago, after it was renovated, and it was built in 1939 - so, an older home. The electrical isn't causing any issues whatsoever (knock on wood!), however when I've replaced the minor things I can do myself (light fixture, thermostat, etc.), I've noticed that it's definitely older wiring. Additionally, multiple/odd rooms are linked on the same breakers, etc. A rewire would update the wiring, but also make things easier! I'm NOT in a rush, since there are no negative issues (it's not like anything sparks or hums, etc). No one even recommended we get it done, I just know I'd like it to be updated wiring. However, when I s...

Marketing here for a big global company. We're pretty flex, in that some departments/groups are remote, some are in our headquarters, some are in various regional offices around the world - and none are the same hours. The company's official "open" hours are 8am - 6pm, however most in our HQ are 9-5. My team is a mix of 7/8/9-4/5/6. Except for days I use the work gym in the morning, I personally get in for 7:15 and stay until about 5:30. We also have pretty flexible work from home system.

denovo wrote: ↑Fri Feb 02, 2018 5:59 pm One checking account is enough.

Nice to meet you denovo, I'm benevo. Are we cousins?!