France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

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bogleviewer
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France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by bogleviewer »

I know that many of you are avid travelers. I will soon be going to France from the USA. Paris, Nice and Montecarlo are a few of the destinations we have planned. Airfare paid for, hotels are booked, rent a car is scheduled. Now we need activities!

What are some of your "Must Do" items, things to see, things to do, etc. Eateries that must be visited, shows to be watched, activities to experience, Etc.

Any information would be helpful such as general location or address, approximate cost per person, what it is, etc would make this a helpful thread so that we can plan our 10 day trip well.
Brian2d
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by Brian2d »

I've been to both of those places...unless you have something off the beaten path I'd pass on a car. Take a TGV (train) from Paris to the coast, and use public transit where necessary (it's much better there than in the USA).

In Paris, I recommend having a meal in the eastern section near the Canal Saint Martin or in another less-touristy area. Gives you a different picture of the city (less touristy, stereotypes about Paris don't apply as much, etc.)
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by FafnerMorell »

Saint Paul de Vence near Nice is a must see. It's probably only 2-3 hours to walk through all the art shops, etc and admire the view - but a wonderful spot. I've been to Nice many times, and Saint Paul is my one "must do". Also, in Nice itself, on the section called "Old Nice", there's a stairway/path where you can climb up from the beach area to a park high above (I think it's called Castle Hill).

It's amazing how close Cannes, Antibes, Monaco, Monte Carlo all are - you can spend a day driving along the Bord De Mer (and where it takes you) and see so much.
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by chaz »

The Louvre and Versailles are not to be missed. A full day at each.
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by VictoriaF »

On my last visit to Paris I made a surprising discovery, the Passy Cemetery a short walking distance from the Eiffel Tower.

I was sitting in the Trocadéro place enjoying the view and chatting with a woman who was sitting next to me. She was a lawyer from Warsaw who adores Paris and comes there every year. Then a rain has started and we ran for cover. When we were indoors, we had some coffee and stepped up our mutual friendliness. She said that Passy was her favorite place in Paris and was surprised that I did not know it was there. After the rain has ended, the woman took me for a tour of the cemetery. It's a beautiful place, centrally located, and quite deserted being overshadowed by the Eiffel Tower and other famous attractions.

An interesting and less touristy experience is a tour of the Paris sewer system. I highly recommend it.

Another excellent underground experience is the Catacombs. But this one is very popular and requires a long wait in line.

Victoria
Last edited by VictoriaF on Sun Jun 02, 2013 7:18 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by Blues »

chaz wrote:The Louvre and Versailles are not to be missed. A full day at each.
Agree. Fontainebleau is also well worth visiting.

We spent two weeks walking the streets of Paris in every conceivable direction and never ran out of fascinating venues and vistas. Père Lachaise Cemetery, Sacré-Cœur Basilica, Invalides, etc etc.

Some of the restaurants we enjoyed:

Au Pied de Cochon
Le Val d'Isere
Le Fous d'en face
St. Germain l'Auxerrois
Le Coupe Chou
Le Vauban
Ladurée
Le Rostand
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by Ged »

chaz wrote:The Louvre and Versailles are not to be missed. A full day at each.
The Musée d'Orsay is worth seeing too.
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by VictoriaF »

In Paris, I have a ritual of spending at least one evening on Montmartre, on the steps just below Sacré-Cœur. The place offers a fantastic view of Paris and it's a popular with musicians and other performers. Several people bring their guitars, and invariably someone sings songs by the Beatles.

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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by Blues »

VictoriaF wrote:In Paris, I have a ritual of spending at least one evening on Montmartre, on the steps just below Sacré-Cœur. The place offers a fantastic view of Paris and it's a popular with musicians and other performers. Several people bring their guitars, and invariably someone sings songs by the Beatles.

Victoria
A good friend of ours lives about two blocks away. (Chateau Rouge is the closest stop on the Metro and then a short walk.) Great locale.

My cousin is a French citizen and attorney with offices on the Champs-Elysées. He turned us on to an amazing number of wonderful restaurants, bistros and brasseries several of which I listed in the post above.
Scotttheking
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by Scotttheking »

Cut and paste from a prior Paris recommendation list from my wife:

--Top of Arc de Triomphe (we went at night and it was particularly neat having that view)
--Versailles
--Sewer Museum
--Louvre--particularly the part with the history of Paris and the Louvre (has an excavated part of old city wall)
--Pere LaChaise Cemetery--Has some famous people there including Oscar Wilde
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by 2stepsbehind »

Key question: when are you going?
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by xrvision »

yummy, non-pretentious, non-touristy, affordable restaurant suggestions:
-Cafe Med- creperie on ile st louis, reasonable prices. Right by Notre Dame.
-http://www.travelandleisure.com/travel- ... cain-paris
-La Penderie- in the Marais.
-Mon Oncle http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_R ... rance.html
-http://hipparis.com. Blog we used for restaurant ideas.

Marais- really cool district to walk around. Rue Montorgueil is a street nearby with an outdoor market and lots of yummy food.
The Opera Garnier- one of my favorite tours we did. Get there early- there's a long line on weekends.
Spend an afternoon in the Champs de Mars (park near the Eiffel Tower) with a bottle of wine and a baguette and cheese

We spent a day in Champagne country and really enjoyed it. It's a bit pricey, but this was the most reasonable tour I found (they picked us up and dropped us off in Paris). You can also just take a train and do a day trip to Champagne country on your own for cheaper. http://www.parischampagnetour.com/

Biggest advice for Paris is don't rush. There are a zillion things to do/eat/drink. If you miss a couple of museums, oh well. Take your time, stop and get ice cream and crepes on the side of the road, and enjoy.
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by Spades »

IIRC, there's a Rodin museum in Paris as well that is exquisite. I recently visited Normandy and that was a blast, but you ain't heading that way. Mont St. Michel is must up there after the D-Day beaches.

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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by VictoriaF »

xrvision wrote:Biggest advice for Paris is don't rush. There are a zillion things to do/eat/drink. If you miss a couple of museums, oh well. Take your time, stop and get ice cream and crepes on the side of the road, and enjoy.
Don't rush is the key to enjoying Paris.

A part of the experience is just being there, slowing down, thinking and behaving like a Parisian. During previous visits my favorite park was Jardin du Luxembourg. But recently (in 2011), I got to appreciate Jardin des Tuileries. There is large basin at the end of the park with armchairs generously spread around it. It's a brilliant place to have a conversation with friends, do people watching, or just catch up with your own thoughts.

Victoria
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by fatlittlepig »

take advantage of the velib bike share system, it's really really nice and very cheap and convenient. I rode the bike around Paris late at night even along the champs élysées. you can buy a pass online.

bogleviewer wrote:I know that many of you are avid travelers. I will soon be going to France from the USA. Paris, Nice and Montecarlo are a few of the destinations we have planned. Airfare paid for, hotels are booked, rent a car is scheduled. Now we need activities!

What are some of your "Must Do" items, things to see, things to do, etc. Eateries that must be visited, shows to be watched, activities to experience, Etc.

Any information would be helpful such as general location or address, approximate cost per person, what it is, etc would make this a helpful thread so that we can plan our 10 day trip well.
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by saver65 »

Find Laduree by St. Germain if you like French pastries,

Walking tour in Notre Dame,

Musee Marmottan to see more Monet,

Ferris Wheel at the end of Tuileries gardens,

Most important - slow down, relax, and walk around. Marais is great for walking, Montmartre for eating out in tiny holes in the wall, Champs Elysees for people watching.
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by camden »

So many great things to do and see in Paris, many of which have already been mentioned, but one I would strongly recommend that has not is Sainte-Chapelle, close to Notre Dame. A gem of a mini-cathedral, with magnificent stained glass. Do not know if it still happens, but when I visited a dozen years ago I stumbled on a free half hour organ concert given every Sunday afternoon at St. Eustache---the cathedral itself was worth visiting, but with organ music wafting about..........
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by MidA »

- The Rodin museum is wonderful and a nice size (not too big, which is a nice break if you've been visiting larger museums)
- If you are big Monet/impressionism fans, consider visiting the Musee de l'Orangerie one afternoon; the line is often relatively short, it's a small museum, and seeing the expansive "Waterlily" canvases is a nice way to end the day. Purchase a dual ticket to the Orangerie and the Musee d'Orsay; the next morning, visit the Orsay without having to wait in the lengthy ticket line!
- If weather permits, picnic one evening. Our favorite location is the Eiffel Tower at dusk (there is a little light show once the sun sets). As others have suggested, the steps of Sacre Coeur are also great to do so. If you enjoy wine, bring a bottle (and a few plastic glasses from the hotel room and your own bottle opener) to accompany your food (quiches, sandwiches, beautiful pastries, slices of cheese/cured meat from local shops...whatever you fancy). One of my favorite Parisian experiences and a welcome break after several nights eating out!

Enjoy!
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by Valuethinker »

The Louvre is overwhelming and around the Mona Lisa irritatingly crowded. You need to know what you want to see.

But the Musee D'Orsay-- the curator has admitted he actually doesn't like the Impressionists that much. No fooling, the way it is laid out.

At 10.am sharp, or about 3.30pm, you need to go the Musee D'Orsay, ignore the first 2 levels, it's the third level you want, above the entrance (the interior layout is confusing-- it's a magnificent converted train station, imagine Grand Central Station as an art gallery).

There in a series of small rooms you will find paintings by the Impressionists and their contemporaries.

It is one of the great art collections of the world. The Impressionists were in many ways, still, the greatest paintings in the history of western art. And they are there, including little seen things like the exquisite pastels (too fragile to be moved, shown in reduced light) by Odile Redon. Whether by a guide, guidebook or whatever, the more you can learn about the Impressionists the more impressed you will be.

Other than that I find Paris exhausting, too many big roads. Public transport is excellent though (beware of pickpockets!). Serving staff are offhand or rude (more than the usual Gallic whatever, downright bad). Thefts from hotel rooms (use the safe!) are greeted with that shrug of 'what do you want me to do about it?' Paris suffers from too much demand for the hotel rooms-- check Tripadvisor carefully, it's not just Americans complaining!, Paris really does take some careful choosing on hotels.

We found some modern hotels around Montparnasse which are not bad. The tower area itself is a little bit spooky after dark, but there are nice streets around, I don't think it is really unsafe -- we found a good Vietnamese restaurant and a good seafood place. And it has excellent transport links to the centre, and a direct train to Charles De Gaulle Airport (this is Paris, the ticket booths were unmanned and the ticket machines a nightmare).

Restaurants again a mixed bag. Brasserie Chez Julie (near Pl. De Republique) is an old family favourite (Alsatian - sea food platter to die for). You do need your guidebooks, it's easy to have mediocre food at high prices in Paris. Again making it rather unique in France (only the tourist areas have that problem-- bad restaurants don't survive in France in a country that treats eating out at restaurants as the national pasttime). Note that the menus at the best restaurants are often quite restricted-- they only offer what was fresh in the market that day.

The magic of Paris such as it is in the city lit up at night and the very concept of it. Montmartre. The Eiffel Tower (again, overrated in some ways, but you have to see it). I like Invalides (military museum) but that's a specialist taste: lots of static dioramas and cases, quite old fashioned (or was). Strolling up the Champs Elysees in the setting sun, popping into Galleries Lafayette and Printemps for some shopping, seeing the Arc de Triomphe in the setting sun.

For walking around I don't think Paris is that great (there are good bits and bad bits), but Le Marais (pl. Victor Hugo) is the old medieval bit and is nice to walk around. The old Jewishness (and even the gayness) of it is dying under gentrification, but as you get up towards Pl de Republique it's still there. Place Leo Blum (11th district/ Arrondisement I think) is kind of like their Lower East Side, a Jewish then muslim immigrant district now going yuppy. That canal up that way is interesting-- Hotel Du Nord, another classic paris film, is set there.


There's a railway line walk starting around La Bastille (the citadel was pulled down 200 years ago, alas) which the High Line in New York emulated, which is kind of neat to walk along. You walk through peoples' apartment buildings at a couple of points, which is kind of kooky.

The Left Bank is disappointing I thought-- very touristy. You can have a coffee at the cafe Sartre used to sit in, but you'll pay for it. The actual island (Notre Dame Cathedral) is nice and the cathedral impressive-- make sure you get a view behind it. The Catacombs (accessed in season only from south Paris) are fascinating.

A river cruise is a good way to orient yourself, and would be spectacular at night as well.

You can spend your life in the museums but I'd hit Musee D'orsay, maybe spend a morning at the Louvre seeing a few key pieces, and spend as much of the rest of the time doing various walking tours (you can get books for self guided tours) having perhaps taken a tour bus ride around and/or a boat ride.

*everything* museum wise is closed Monday, and that's when everyone goes to Versailles. Versailles itself, if you've never seen it, is impressive. It's not too my taste (that kind of very formal 1700s French palace suffers poorly against 19th century English country houses, which are much more domestic). It's hard to imagine anyone living there, the way of life was so alien. But it is impressive (and crowded)- -Hall of Mirrors etc.

(there was a Julie Delpy film, with Ethan ?Allan?, Before Sunset (the film with the same actors, Before Sunrise, was about an American meeting a French girl in Vienna, 15 years earlier) is a tribute to Paris and quite touching. Ditto also 'Frantic' a Harrison Ford thriller (Roman Polanski) about an American man whose bag is switched at the airport and his wife kidnapped-- great chase over the rooftops).

There probably is a better book/ movie of the time but 'Is Paris Burning?' Under Nazi occupation, the Jewish population and many resistance fighters were deported to the concentration camps, sometimes with enthusiastic French police help. Then in 1944 the Resistance led an uprising against the German garrison as the American and Free French divisions converged on the city. The history of Paris is the history of street fighting (Hausman cut the boulevards extra wide, in the manner of the newly built Washington DC, to allow the troops to move quickly between trouble spots, and so the cannon could cut down the mob in the streets) and in 1944 the people of Paris lived true to that tradition. 2 Pompiers (fireman) scaled the Eiffel Tower and unfurled the Tricouleur flag for the first time in 4 years. Von Cholmnitz, a German aristocrat, was ordered by Hitler to destroy the city with explosives. He never carried out the order. When the High Command rang him, holding out at the Hotel de Ville (city hall) and asked 'Is Paris burning?' he held the receiver up to the open window, so they could hear the crowds celebrating outside.

Paris lived, because a German aristocrat chose to disobey orders, to preserve the jewel on the Seine. That's something worth treasuring.
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by jebmke »

saver65 wrote:Marais is great for walking
Place des Vosges is one of my favorite spots. A small park, fairly enclosed by buildings. Cafe or two along the edge along with a couple shops. There is a music school nearby so often there are students playing either alone or in a small group along the edge.
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by sambb »

1. avoid top of eiffel tower. Get off the metro at trocadero for best photo of it, and then walk down to it
2. definitely do top of arc de triomphe
3. i like top of notre dame also very much
4. Get off at concorde metro stop - take pictures at the concorde stop, and walk through the jardins de tuileries for 10 minutes to get to the Louvre. A great way to approach the louvre - you will be worn out after 5 hours in the louvre, and you will only see 1% of it. Thats just the way it is.
5. Musee d'orsay is essential for half a day as well
6. Versailles is a whole day thing - dont miss the gardens there also
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by Blues »

Valuethinker wrote:There probably is a better book/ movie of the time but 'Is Paris Burning?' Under Nazi occupation, the Jewish population and many resistance fighters were deported to the concentration camps, sometimes with enthusiastic French police help.
Had a few family members who were interned at Drancy prior to being shipped off elsewhere. I've read quite a few books about the period and history.

In fact, the cousin (attorney) I referred to above...his father was one of those sent to Drancy and then on to the camps never to be seen or heard from again. Turns out he was denounced by a policeman who resided in his apartment building. He had come out of hiding to see his wife and two young sons at the time.
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by expat »

Try couscous. It's a North African dish very popular in France.
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bogleviewer
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by bogleviewer »

Someone asked when we are leaving and the answer is this upcoming week for 10 days. It is two couples going together.

We have our hotels (sticking with Marriott's). One of the people we are going with speaks French fluently, although isn't from France (aka, he isnt a tour guide, but atleast we can ask for help or won't be totally ostracized as Americans).

In terms of places to watch out for, dangerous, lots of crime, pickpocketing, etc. Can anyone help us avoid a potential accident?

Also, thanks for the comments. I just wrote a huge list to start researching.
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by sambb »

Pickpockets on the #1 line, which you will be on alot in central paris. Keep watch. There will be warnings about this everywhere.
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by THY4373 »

VictoriaF wrote: An interesting and less touristy experience is a tour of the Paris sewer system. I highly recommend it.
+1 I think this was one of my favorite parts of of my visit to Paris a number of years ago (yes I am probably odd).
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by VictoriaF »

THY4373 wrote:
VictoriaF wrote: An interesting and less touristy experience is a tour of the Paris sewer system. I highly recommend it.
+1 I think this was one of my favorite parts of of my visit to Paris a number of years ago (yes I am probably odd).
Now, we are even {smile},

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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by saver65 »

Watch out for gypsy girls on the steps to Sacré-Cœur. They speak pretty good English and would want you to sign some kind of petition, just to scam you out of money.
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by VictoriaF »

bogleviewer wrote:In terms of places to watch out for, dangerous, lots of crime, pickpocketing, etc. Can anyone help us avoid a potential accident?
In preparation to my 2011 trip to Paris, I bought Pacsafe MetroSafe 200 Anti-Theft Shoulder Bag. With this bag, I never had to worry about pickpockets either in Metro on in tourist areas. I probably should test it in Rome.

Victoria
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by Valuethinker »

bogleviewer wrote:Someone asked when we are leaving and the answer is this upcoming week for 10 days. It is two couples going together.

We have our hotels (sticking with Marriott's). One of the people we are going with speaks French fluently, although isn't from France (aka, he isnt a tour guide, but atleast we can ask for help or won't be totally ostracized as Americans).

In terms of places to watch out for, dangerous, lots of crime, pickpocketing, etc. Can anyone help us avoid a potential accident?

Also, thanks for the comments. I just wrote a huge list to start researching.
Pigalle is not actually as bad a district as it used to look. But basically anywhere crowded you are at risk from pickpockets. The real trouble in Paris is the Bains-lieues (far places) ie the suburbs particularly to the east and north, which have large North African and other immigrant populations, very high unemployment and pverty, at times all out war with the cops (French police are a tough lot), etc. Gard Du Nord (and some parts of East Paris) that feed into those local trains etc. therefore can be a bit rough and ready. You'll feel it pretty quickly.

Pickpockets you are at risk everywhere and I have had friends mugged in various places (I don't think of it as an unsafe city). I am not up on which bits are worse than others, in the centre, to be honest.

don't worry the ostracization has nothing to do with being Americans! They don't like the English either! ;-).

It is Paris. Like all things in France, people one on one can be hugely charming, hugely helpful, just wonderful. But something about the place, perhaps simply too many tourists, reinforces the general 'eff you' of the city.

It does help to speak French. Nowadays the French speak English, but they are not particularly happy about that. (partly that's pride-- they like to speak French well, and it irritates them they cannot speak English well).

But remember, even French people complain about Paris.

You get these moments of really touching and individual concern, but you also get that very gallic shrug and what do you want me to do about it?

As with any great city: New York, London, Berlin-- you do have to learn to take it on its own terms, and 'have a nice day' has not penetrated to Paris. Vive La Difference I say!

Watch before you cross the road. They drive like maniacs.
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by Valuethinker »

A general problem in European cities is being jossled or stopped by people, as a scam for begging or for a bag lift or snatch or phone. Often the perpetrators are not locals.

Sitting in a cafe on the sidewalk. Or on public transport.

Do use the hotel safes in the room. And don't take things of sentimental value. There seems to be an endemic problem with room theft in France.
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by Valuethinker »

Blues wrote:
Valuethinker wrote:There probably is a better book/ movie of the time but 'Is Paris Burning?' Under Nazi occupation, the Jewish population and many resistance fighters were deported to the concentration camps, sometimes with enthusiastic French police help.
Had a few family members who were interned at Drancy prior to being shipped off elsewhere. I've read quite a few books about the period and history.

In fact, the cousin (attorney) I referred to above...his father was one of those sent to Drancy and then on to the camps never to be seen or heard from again. Turns out he was denounced by a policeman who resided in his apartment building. He had come out of hiding to see his wife and two young sons at the time.
It's taken a long time for the French to admit with what enthusiasm they collaborated in the deportation of the Juifs.

But then we don't like to talk about Jersey and Guernsey....

The Vichy regime was enormously popular at first, seen as revivifying the old France after the (Leon Blum was of Jewish extraction) socialist rule of the Front Populaire (1936-1940). Many of its reforms were in fact adopted in post war France (eg the reduction to 19 Departments, construction of the Peripherique motorway, national identity cards).

What is not widely understood is how much suicidal adherence to the Franc Fort and the Gold Standard (until 1936) crippled France, whilst the British Pound went off the Gold Standard in 1931, and we had a huge housing boom. Thus leaving our industrial base ready for rearmament.

Alan Furst writes some good thrillers about Nazi occupied Paris.

Geography and blind luck saved us from the same fate. There's a Len Deighton thriller SS GB (SS Great Britain branch), about a Nazi occupation of London. It's utterly chilling, the more so because I recognize many of the locales in which it was written. And the mindsets displayed.
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by Blues »

Valuethinker wrote:It's taken a long time for the French to admit with what enthusiasm they collaborated in the deportation of the Juifs.

But then we don't like to talk about Jersey and Guernsey....(snip)
The only reason my cousin, his older brother and mother were spared was because she was Catholic and the children raised as Catholics even though that might not ordinarily have saved the day.

As an interesting aside...some years later she married an American G.I. stationed in Europe and they resided in Germany for years. Ironically, my cousin had his Confirmation at a chapel at Dachau. (To this day he says he gets along well with Germans and enjoys German culture despite the loss of a father he was really too young to know.) He went on to study in the U.S as well as the Sorbonne and became a world renowned attorney specializing primarily in African affairs.

His late brother had a long career in the U.S. military.

And so it goes.

(By the way, I've read some of the titles you refer to.)
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schnoodlemom
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by schnoodlemom »

I'm not the OP, but thanks for all this great info! We're heading to London/Paris for 2 weeks in late June-early July. We're spending 5 nights in London, will travel by TGV to Paris, then 6 nights in Paris. The comment about Versailles on Monday being crowded because museums are closed, does that imply we should avoid Versailles on Mondays? We're a family of four with 2 teenage girls, ages 13 & 16. Any reason to avoid Paris at night with the younger ones? Last time I was in London or Paris was over 25 years ago as a young adult. It's been a long-held dream to take the rest of the family there. I'm sorry if this seems like a thread hijack. To the OP: Have an excellent trip!!
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by fatlittlepig »

I don't travel being paranoid about pickpockets, it ruins your experience. It's not that bad.
Valuethinker wrote:A general problem in European cities is being jossled or stopped by people, as a scam for begging or for a bag lift or snatch or phone. Often the perpetrators are not locals.

Sitting in a cafe on the sidewalk. Or on public transport.

Do use the hotel safes in the room. And don't take things of sentimental value. There seems to be an endemic problem with room theft in France.
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Blues
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by Blues »

fatlittlepig wrote:I don't travel being paranoid about pickpockets, it ruins your experience. It's not that bad.
I agree, though it pays to keep your wits about you. Some years back on our first day in Rome a friend had her pocketbook snatched as a car went by and the passenger grabbed the strap. Fortunately, she wasn't hurt and we were actually able to grab the guy and retrieve the pocketbook without much of an incident.
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by Puakinekine »

It is not often that I disagree with VT, but I do not think that people are any ruder or arrogant or that pick pocketers or scam artists are any worse in Paris then in they are in London. I enjoy walking in Paris as much as I do in London, or perhaps even more so, as the beauty sometimes overwhelms. It is my favorite thing to do there.
It is Paris. Like all things in France, people one on one can be hugely charming, hugely helpful, just wonderful. But something about the place, perhaps simply too many tourists, reinforces the general 'eff you' of the city.
For me this sentence can be applied in London or New York or Berlin or just about any large city. Perhaps, because I grew up in New York in the 1970's, I don't really expect people in large cities to be all that friendly. I always think of it as a bonus if they are.

I was just in Paris a month ago, and although the gold ring trick was tried on us (the day my husband was carrying a camera on his shoulder and not put away in his pack) and he (never me) was asked to answer surveys by groups of young girls several times, no one went for our pockets, bags or packs, which has happened in Rome a few times. You just have to keep your money/valuables under your clothes and be aware of what the new scams are this year. I also try to travel with nothing that I would be very upset to lose--wedding ring excepted. Rick Steve's website gives a good rundown on the current scams. Although, if you take all of the dire warnings from people on his website to heart too much to heart, you'd never go anywhere.

What I did notice this time, was a change in attitude about speaking English. People spoke English readily and without (apparent) resentment or reluctance. It has been gradually changing over the years, but I was fairly amazed at the change even from two years ago.

I do agree with VT on not really liking the left bank--it is packed with tourists, so I prefer not to stay there, just visit. The first time we were in Paris, I brought along a small light weight guide book called something like Fodor's 25 Best Paris Citypack. I don't know if they are publishing the same one anymore, but there is something like it on Amazon. It had a great laminated map that came with it, and it probably was one of the best guides I've ever used in terms of weight vs information. I finally left it in the apartment that we stayed in for others, as at the end of visit four, we had finally used it up.
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Watty
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by Watty »

we can plan our 10 day trip well.
If your plans are still flexible then for a ten day trip I would spend it all in Paris and the area outside of Paris since you would burn up a lot of time traveling to the other cities.
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by protagonist »

Bogleviewer, I go to France every year to play music, visit friends, etc. Over the years I have put together my own "personal Paris guide" for friends, as well as for myself, to remember what I liked best. Below is a copy. This has been amassed over several years, so if things have changed, or closed, or if prices have increased, or if you and I are just different, sorry.

Latest update summer 2012....some of the info may date back to 2006-7 and may be obsolete by now. If so please don't shoot the messenger.

Before you leave make sure you notify your credit card and ATM companies or your cards won’t work.

Another convenient thing is to download map apps on your phone/tablet/whatever that you can carry with you (I use CityMaps2Go for Paris but there are probably loads of them), and the Tripadvisor app is useful for restaurants, attractions, etc. With those two in your pocket , as well as a gps or gps app, you don't need a bulky map or guide.

When you arrive at CDG, while in airport:
-Get money from ATM

Take Metro RER-B into downtown Paris (St Michel stop is center of left bank) - Costs about 8E. The automatic ticketing machines do not typically accept American credit cards- you have to stand on line if you do not have euros. Takes about 40 min I think and is direct and easy.

Three things to buy immediately at a kiosk , or at the airport:
-phone card
-map, if you don't have offline map apps or gps/3G. The little booklet ones are the best. Mine is called Paris Pratique par Arrondisement, but they all work.
-Pariscope. Weekly listings of everything from restaurants, music, theatre, etc. Costs 40 cents and is extremely useful.

Hotels:

My favorite little cheap one in the 5th (Left bank) is Hotel du College de France, I think on rue Thenard . My favorite cheap one in the 3d (Marais) is Hotel de la Herse d'Or though it is very basic. Usually I rent an apartment (Livinparis is a reliable rental agency I have used and can be found easily on the net).
Other similar places that are good where I have stayed include Hotel Monge, Hotel Sully St. Germain. All should be under 100 euro. Please realize I stay in really basic places- if you seek luxury you must look elsewhere.

Alain (Pluton) has a great little apartment for rent at 10 r. Constance in Montmartre for 50E/night in 2012. pamino75@hotmail.com .

Restaurants I remember being good :
-Etamine. This is my new favorite for quality/atmosphere/value. 13 r. des Ecouffes in the Marais. Get the prix fixe meal: three course, delicious, inventive meal (choice of 3 appetizers, 3 main courses and 3 desserts) in a tiny (7 tables) hole in the wall with jazz...very romantic and only 19E for dinner (!) in 2012...total bill came to 29E with wine. The name means “stamen” in French. Restaurants should be given vaguely sexual names, but it will never happen in America.
-L’Epi Dupin. Definitely need to reserve. (7e I think) Dinners prob. around 35-50E.
-Le Pre Verre- 5e right across from Hotel du College de France. Also probably need reservation. Cheaper than l’Epi Dupin and also serves a really good table d’hote lunch for under 15E. Dinner around 30-35E .
-Andy Wahloo/404: located métro Arts et Métiers, 69 rue des Gravilliers. Andy Wahloo is a small bar of Moroccan inspiration with a DJ on Saturday nights. You can eat dinner or appetizers from the restaurant next door, 404, and they are delicious. If you are seven or eight, reserve the table on the mezzanine at 404 for a night you won't forget (especially when you try to make it down the tiny, steep stairway from the mezzanine after a few of the delicious house cocktails). There is a small garden out back - better to book a table if you want to eat or drink there. Tel 01 42 74 57 81 THIS PLACE MAKES FANTASTIC LAMB TAGINES AND VERY ATMOSPHERIC, in the Marais.

Founti Agadir. Good, reasonable Moroccan at 117 rue Monge, near cassis-daubertin metro. Main courses around 15-17 E.

-Le Petit Prince- somewhere in the 5e. 12 r. de Lanneau. “Gay ou pas?” French and romantic in the Latin Quarter.
-There is a-great Moroccan restaurant on Rue Monge near the level of the top of rue Mouffetard, very reasonable (easily not more than 20E), on the same side of street as Hotel Monge. Close to Censier-Daubenton metro stop (within a few blocks). Ariel knows it.
-Pain Quotidien: All over the place.. Very good but a little pricey; coffee, croissants, sandwiches etc . They are in NYC as well. A MUCH cheaper and at least as good an alternative for breakfast or lunch is to buy a baguette or croissants, etc at a bakery and cheese at a fromagerie and sit somewhere and eat it (they are literally everywhere…there are tons on rue Moufftard and in any neighborhood really), or a crepe from any of the ubiquitous crepe stands (3E gets you a really good one). .
-Delikat and Zen , 5 r. de Pontoise. A beautiful cute little café is on rue Pontoise off rue St Germain in the 5th not too far up from the river with good food and a sweet lady running it- open for lunch as well as dinner and very reasonable. …anyway it has a sort of Buddhist sound to the name. I think this one probably closed...couldn't find it last time.
-Carte Blanche, 6 rue Lamartine, in the 9th between Gare du Nord and Montmartre. Out of the way but worth it. Inventive cuisine, excellent, same quality and inventiveness as L’Epi Dupin but a little cheaper and easier to get in, less cramped, dinners between 25-40E.
-Les Bacchantes, 21 r. Caumartin, in the 9th near Opera. Relatively inexpensive but high quality little bistro. Main courses ~18E. Appetizers and desserts ~8E. Excellent cabernet ~6E/glass.
--Le Cafeotheque has FANTASTIC coffee and also croissants and pastries (I didn't try the pastries). Sort of expensive...coffee starts at 3E for a simple espresso and up for more complicated drinks (2012), but really great coffee and great bohemian coffee house type atmosphere. 52 r.de l'Hotel de Ville along the Seine in the Marais bordering Ile St Louis .

You are always better off ordering off the prix fixe menus in the restaurants if you can…they are usually much better deals. And for the same price you can have good wine, or mediocre beer, coffee or coca cola. I know which I would choose.

Bakeries:
There are tons of great ones. Ariel and I found one we particularly liked on rue Monge, same side of street as Hotel Monge, about 2 blocks further up rue Monge away from the river. It might be Maison Gregoire at 69 rue Monge.

Another good one is Miss Manon at 81 r. St. Antoine in the Marais.

Coquelicot in Montmartre, 24(?) rue de les Abbesses, close to Place des Abbesses in Montmartre- good bakery as well as cafe w/ outdoor seating (cappuccino, smoked salmon, croissant and pain au chocolat for ~9E in 2012).

Ice Cream:

-Probably the best is Berthillon on ile St. Louis (the island is touristy but a beautiful place to walk around). Great herb and flower flavors. Only get it from the takeout stand…the café is way overpriced.
-Alberto or Alberti or something like that on Mouffetard is delicious and the cones are a work of art
-Pazzetto- delicious gelato and sorbets at rue de Roi de Sicile 39 in the Marais. Good coffee too, and friendly.
-Amorino is all over and pretty good but the above are better.

Clubs:

The coolest one is aux 3 Mailletz on rue Galande and Dante in the 5th. Show starts around midnight but really does not get going until closer to 3AM, and there is a fairly stiff cover (maybe 15-20 euro?), so don’t bother going unless you intend to stay up most of the night. You definitely cannot leave before Pascal sings “L’amour est un oiseau rebelle”. Upstairs is a piano bar and restaurant where people come off the street to sing opera and chansons, and they serve passably decent food as well. YOU MUST NOT MISS THIS!

Classical music in the churches as per posters on the street.

Jazz: many. A few of mention: Duc des Lombards (1e),New Morning (10e), 7 Lizards, Sunside (1e), le Bilboquet (6e). There is a cool jazz store close to the Pantheon where you can get a free copy of Lylo, which lists all the jazz happenings for the month.. It’s called CrocoJazz, at r. de la Montaigne St Genevieve 62. There are free jam sessions at Autour de Midi in a tiny cave in Montmartre (11 r. Lepic), as well as at Le Baiser Sale (another sexual innuendo) between Sunside and Duc des Lombards on r. des Lombards. (3 jazz clubs on the same block!!)

Tourist attractions that are worth it:
Louvre, Musee d’Orsay, Notre Dame, la Chapelle (my favorite of the churches), Pantheon, Picasso museum, Rodin museum.

Tourist attractions that are overrated:
Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, Champs-Elysees

One that everybody loves but I have not visited: Catacombs.

The Marais (3e I think) is a very cool neighborhood, great walking, center of gay activity
and also the Jewish ghetto. Lots of great cafes, etc. Get a free cup of delicious tea at Le Palais des Thes, 64 rue Vieille du Temple.

You can pretty much walk around anywhere in the first 7 arrondisements and be happy, and Montmartre is very cool too- very beautiful but also quite touristy.

The BatoBus is a boat that runs up and down the river and you can buy a ticket for a day, multiple days, etc. if that kind of thing floats your boat…it stops close to most everything you would want to do around Paris. Once might be enough- if it is very hot the sun really bakes you.

The bookstalls by the Louvre are cool.

A large concentration of musical instrument shops including luthiers are concentrated in a few blocks on what I believe is the rue de Rome in the 17e, but I could be wrong about the location so check at any music shop and they will know.

Luxembourg Gardens is a cool place to get away from the heat.

Good shopping and a lot of trendy restaurants and bars around Chatelet by the border of the 4e and 1e, around Duc de Lombards (jazz club).





THOSE WERE MINE AND ARIELLE’S PICS. FOLLOWING ARE PICS FROM A FRIEND WHO LIVES IN PARIS- I HAVE NOT TRIED ANY OF THESE:

To eat:

Le Pure Café, traditional bistro, very good food for not outrageous prices in a neighborhood without any particular interest. 14 rue Jean Macé, métro Faideherbe, Réservations : 01 43 71 47 22
Le Petit Marché, food not as good as Pure Café but better location, right off Place des Vosges at 9, rue Béarn, open lunch and dinner
Les Caves Saint-Gilles, 4 rue Saint-Gilles, with decent but expensive tapas and the best sangria you'll ever drink, near Le Petit Marché and Place des Vosges Tel : 01 48 87 22 62
L'Antre Amis, I think the food is an excellent value and I've never seen a tourist in the place! The waiters are adorable and attentive. Good deals on wine. Make sure you order the fondant au chocolat - exquisite. Unfortunately, very much off the beaten track at 9 rue Bouchut, métro Sèvres Lecourbe Tel 01 45 67 15 65
Chez Prune: I've not actually eaten here, but the old bistro atmosphere right off the canal Saint Martin is interesting and there is usually good eye candy! located at 36, Rue Beaurepaire - Quai Valmy

Aux Lyonnais on 32 rue St Marc for delicious, real French bistro food in a well-preserved turn-of-the-century atmosphere. Tél. 01 42 96 65 04

Café Panique for an excellent and slightly innovative meal for 30 euros in loft space located in a rather shabby neighborhood you'd probably never see otherwise. 10 rue Messageries. Tel. 01 47 70 06 84

Le bistro du peintre, 116, avenue Ledru Rollin 75011. Art nouveau decor, good food for good prices in a slowly-gentrifying neighborhood. Tel: 01-47-00-34-39.

rue des Dames, running west from a block north of Place de Clichy, is full of well-preserved Art Nouveau bars and cafés and decent restaurants. Try l'Aubergine, 46 rue des Dames, for fresh ingredients and mucho eye candy customers. Tel 01 43 87 67 95. Take the time to explore the street, which juxtaposes an emporium for drag queens with art shops displaying tasteful pencil-drawings of alluring nudes and run-down hardware stores.

I hear the Jules Verne restaurant at the Eiffel Tower has competent food and, of course, a magnificent view. Everyone I know who's eaten there says it's worth the trip. The prices are steep (I don't know how steep exactly). You need to book far ahead. You can call them at +33 1 45 55 61 44

You can have an extraordinary meal for two with wine for EUR 600 at the Four Seasons Hotel George V restaurant "Le Cinq". It's one of the world's best restaurants, and the hotel happens to be a client so I know it well. Phone +33 1 49 52 70 00

Someplace a lot cheaper but charming with good food and very French atmosphere is La Fontaine de Mars, near the Eiffel Tower. A three course dinner with wine will probably run up to EUR 80 per person. Make sure you get a table outside. Phone +33 1 47 05 46 44

Decent food with a great view of the Arc de Triomphe and a fun and occasionally raunchy nightclub downstairs can be found at L'Etoile. Prices are about the same as Fontaine de Mars although the service isn't the best - it's a semi-snobbish place but on a clear evening if you're sitting near the windows the setting is splendid, so insist on sitting by a window. +33 1 45 00 78 70

I have had a lot of luck sending clients to La Cantine du Faubourg, 105 rue du Faubourg. Tel. +33 1 42 56 22 22. Basement lounge atmosphere, decent food, expensive drinks and some of the sluttier call girls you'll find in Paris.

The Ice Kube. A bar of ice kept at -5°C. All the Grey Goose you can drink in 30 minutes. Watch out, when you exit, the heat will really hit you and so will the potato juice. OUCH! Reservations a must: Tel. 01 42 05 20 00.

An interesting atmosphere (thousands of constantly changing lights) and creative hit-or-miss food right off the Champs Elysees is Music Hall. The prices are lower than L'Etoile but still a bit steep for what you get. +33 1 45 61 03 63

Do drinks at the rooftop terrace at Hotel Raphael. I haven't been there but supposedly it's the best view in Paris. +33 1 53 64 32 00

For a nightclub I like Cab, classy and snobby with lots of tourists and fairly commercial music. Don't bother eating there - it's not worth it. Strict dress code unless you order a bottle (minimum EUR 120) +33 1 58 62 56 25

For a much more down to earth club go to Favela Chic, hot and sweaty bar/restaurant with DJs mixing every night and great mango caprihinas. You can also eat a Brazilian meal for about EUR 25. No reservations taken, and the line can get long starting around midnight. The neighborhood can appear a bit scary (it's off Place de la République), but it's not really dangerous. The club is not visible from the street. +33 1 40 21 38 14

A lounge-y place for a drink near the Champs Elysees try Le Baron. Incredible pick-up scene, eclectic music. Best to book a table. +33 1 47 20 04 01

My favorite: the Hemingway Bar at the Ritz. For 25 euros, knock yourself out on a martini that will put you in the bed, munch on scrumptous nuts and hors-d'oeuvres, watch the arms dealers lean back and smoke their cigars as the awestruck Americans look on.
Last edited by protagonist on Sun Jun 02, 2013 6:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
gator15
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by gator15 »

I also favor Versailles. It's one of my favorite places in France. Go early because there is lots to see and the garden and premises behind Versailles is huge. You can certainly spend an entire day there. In Nice, go to the beach at night. My wife and I listened to the water roll off the rocks and it's phenomenal sound. Like you, I rented a car to travel from Nice to Monte Carlo. On our way we stop along the side of the road and took pictures with the French Riviera in the background. It's postcard worthy. Monte Carlo was nice, but I guess I enjoyed for all the wrong reasons including the casino they had there and the unbelievable cars you see there. Our course there is alot of money in that city.
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Blues
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by Blues »

protagonist wrote:...watch the arms dealers lean back and smoke their cigars as the awestruck Americans look on.
Funny, true story...when my wife and I went to Versailles we saw a couple of gentlemen walking around looking for a place to sit down and have a drink. I caught the eye of one and waved him over as there were a couple of vacant spots near us.

The elder gentleman introduced himself through his protege after a short time. Turned out that he was a senator from Kazakhstan in Paris preparatory to a trip to Africa for a nuclear weapons non-proliferation summit.

At the time I was assigned to an arms smuggling investigations group back in the U.S. I was in Paris strictly for vacation though I had arranged my hotel stay via the embassy.

Long story short, I had a lot of laughs with and some fun teasing the senator that I was there to shadow him. We exchanged cards but never kept in touch. When I got home I had to make sure to make a report of foreign contact just in case it turned out that i ended up on someone's surveillance tapes.

What were the odds of such a chance, innocent encounter? Small world...or...?
stan1
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by stan1 »

Near Nice:

St. Paul de Vence (a little touristy but really a must see)
Eze (smaller than St. Paul de Vence)
Monte Carlo
Beach resorts such as Cannes, Antibes, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, and Villefranche if you want to relax.

You can either drive or take the TGV (or drive from Paris to Nice, and take the TGV back to Paris).
There are some hotels across the boulevard (5-10 minute walk) from the Nice airport.
Good for one night -- no more -- but convenient if you have an early morning departure.
Warning: I am about 80% satisficer (accepting of good enough) and 20% maximizer
Viking65
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by Viking65 »

stan1 wrote:Near Nice:

St. Paul de Vence (a little touristy but really a must see)
Eze (smaller than St. Paul de Vence)
Monte Carlo
Beach resorts such as Cannes, Antibes, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, and Villefranche if you want to relax.

You can either drive or take the TGV (or drive from Paris to Nice, and take the TGV back to Paris).
There are some hotels across the boulevard (5-10 minute walk) from the Nice airport.
Good for one night -- no more -- but convenient if you have an early morning departure.
+1
Also, the Marche des Fleurs (the Flower Market) on the Course Saleya, between the old town in Nice and the water is a vibrant and beautiful market (much much more than flowers actually), especially on Saturday mornings.
Cimiez, a hill overlooking Nice has extensive Roman ruins, and the Matisse Museum (which can be of variable quality, but can also be very nice if they have special exhibits).
Villefranche sur Mer, just 10 min east of Nice, is a charming little town on a magnificent natural harbor. Great for a waterfront lunch near the beach at the end of the harbor. (disclaimer, I lived in Villefranche for 2 years in the 1990's)
St. Jean Cap Ferrat, a long-thin peninsula with forest and very exclusive and elaborate Chateau. A beautiful coastal walking path from Villefranche to the lighthouse at the tip of Cap Ferrat (before or after aforementioned lunch).
In Monaco, the Oceanographic Museum and Aquarium are beautiful, with a stunning setting. Have lunch at the cafe on the roof for great views of all of Monaco.
Very nice gardens and walking trails between the Oceanographic Museum and the Palace. Then wander through the old town on top of the Rock.
Sip a coffee or pastis at the Cafe de Paris next to the casino in Monte Carlo and watch the activity of the very rich in the vicinity.
In St. Paul de Vence, lunch in the Colombe d'Or is very nice (and expensive). You can eat on the terrace if the weather is nice, with incredible views. Inside there are sketches of a number of artists (Miro, Chagall, Picasso, Matisse etc.) who paid for their meals with their art when cash was scarce.

Good luck and enjoy!
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by VictoriaF »

I was at a conference in Nice and did not have much time for sightseeing, but a French colleague insisted that if I were to visit one place it must be Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild. After I have followed his advice I realized that his sentiments about the Villa were understated.

Here is where the money came from:
Born in 1864, Béatrice was the daughter of the banker and major art collector Baron Alphonse de Rothschild. At 19 years old, she married Maurice Ephrussi, a Parisian banker originally from Russia who was a friend of her parents and 15 years her senior. ... Béatrice’s father died and she inherited a vast fortune. It was at this time that she decided to build the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild.
And here is a bit about the gardens:
The Villa is surrounded by nine magnificent gardens decorated with patios, waterfalls, ornamental ponds, flowerbeds, shady paths and rare species of trees... The gardens took seven years to complete, from 1905 to 1912. Just like for the Villa, the Baroness called on the renowned personalities of the time, such as Harold Peto and Achille Duchêne. ... Hundreds of Italian workers were hired for these colossal excavation works.
The next time I am in the area, I am certain to visit the Villa again.

Victoria
Inventor of the Bogleheads Secret Handshake | Winner of the 2015 Boglehead Contest. | Every joke has a bit of a joke. ... The rest is the truth. (Marat F)
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by Valuethinker »

Blues wrote:
protagonist wrote:...watch the arms dealers lean back and smoke their cigars as the awestruck Americans look on.
Funny, true story...when my wife and I went to Versailles we saw a couple of gentlemen walking around looking for a place to sit down and have a drink. I caught the eye of one and waved him over as there were a couple of vacant spots near us.

The elder gentleman introduced himself through his protege after a short time. Turned out that he was a senator from Kazakhstan in Paris preparatory to a trip to Africa for a nuclear weapons non-proliferation summit.

At the time I was assigned to an arms smuggling investigations group back in the U.S. I was in Paris strictly for vacation though I had arranged my hotel stay via the embassy.

Long story short, I had a lot of laughs with and some fun teasing the senator that I was there to shadow him. We exchanged cards but never kept in touch. When I got home I had to make sure to make a report of foreign contact just in case it turned out that i ended up on someone's surveillance tapes.

What were the odds of such a chance, innocent encounter? Small world...or...?
Paris is like that. I've had other weird coincidences.

I was looking at the (fabulous) Nain Brothers paintings from 1600s France in the Louvre-- one of my favourite bits of that museum, and a friend I had not seen in 20 years, from New York, came up behind me. He was over for the Memorial Day weekend.

I have to admit I never thought of Paris as being particularly favourable to arms dealers. Interesting perspective ;-).
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Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by MathWizard »

bogleviewer wrote:Someone asked when we are leaving and the answer is this upcoming week for 10 days. It is two couples going together.

We have our hotels (sticking with Marriott's). One of the people we are going with speaks French fluently, although isn't from France (aka, he isnt a tour guide, but atleast we can ask for help or won't be totally ostracized as Americans).

In terms of places to watch out for, dangerous, lots of crime, pickpocketing, etc. Can anyone help us avoid a potential accident?

Also, thanks for the comments. I just wrote a huge list to start researching.
I'm more worried in US cities for violent crime than Paris.

Pickpocketing is much more prevalant. They can spot a tourist, and probably that you are from the US.

Don't load yourself down. If you need to, take a taxi to your hotel when traveling with bags. You are weighted down,
and an obvoius target. Avoid tight spaces.

During a metro transfer, we had to take stairs or an elevator. Since we had bags, and we were tired, so we took the elevator.
It had family on it, and there was room for us. Just before the doors closed, two young girls who were just hanging around,
shoved in between us, pinning us against the walls. When we got on the metro, they had taken 350 Euros cash from my wife.

The 350 euros wasn't the bad part. My wife had been having a wonderful time, but after this she was shaken, and it ruined
the next two days in Paris. If I had it to do over, I'd take a taxi to the hotel when burdened with bags. We did that in Rome,
and had no problems.

Other matters:
----
Regarding Versailles, I liked the grounds, but hated the inside.
My take on the palace: Go inside if you like being pushed through doors by tour groups who have flags high on sticks to keep
their groups together and who push into the best spots in the rooms and stick the flags up so that you can't get any good
photos with your friends in them. Most rooms were too gaudy for my tastes.

Take the TGV in first class from Paris to Nice or back. The ride is very enjoyable and restful after touring, and your
time really is worth money when traveling.

Rodin musuem was great and you were not rushed.

Get a metro pass if you are going to use the Metro (highy advisable). It keeps you from having to buy tickets each time.
This is much better than handling money in a metro, as that makes you a target. We got 3 day passes with museum passes,
this is either the Paris Pass or the Paris Museum Pass, or some other combo.
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Peter Foley
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Location: Lake Wobegon

Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by Peter Foley »

While many will recommend the Louve, it is really overwhelming. I would limit my visit to 1/2 day and make a list and study up on the few artists and pieces that you really want to see. Just looking at the paintings and sculptures is not particularly rewarding (IMHO) unless you know something about what the artist is trying to communicate.

The Rodin museum and the d'Orsay are my favorites. Buy a museum pass, it's a cheaper and much faster way to go.

Versaille is great, but as mentioned the grounds are more impressive than the palace.

San Chapelle is worth the visit - guided? if you can get an explanation of the church, the social mix and the communication to the masses (who did not read ) via the imagery of the windows, it is exceptional.

Rick Steve's guides are well worth the price.
SarasotaJohn
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Joined: Wed May 08, 2013 9:09 pm

Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by SarasotaJohn »

I've been to Nice and Monaco a few times (but never Paris oddly enough) and wanted to mention a few things.

The changing of the guard at the castle in Monaco occurs around 11:50 daily, it's not the most mind blowing (you can google it to see if it interests you). It gets packed with people outside of the castle for an event thats all of 10 minutes, but we figured if we're climbing up the stairs to go up there we might as well get there in time to see it and say we did. You can also walk up and tour the castle for around 10 Euros, you're confined to one side and its just a self guided tour of multiple rooms (I think one is where Grace Kelly was married), I liked it but again not a mind blower so it depends on ones personal interests.

If you have dinner in old town in Nice we thourougly enjoyed La Ville de Sienne. It's a few streets back from Cours Saleya, but still in the heart of old town. Definitely more locals than tourists, and reasonable prices at 10-14 euros per entree. We went multiple nights, having a chicken with goat cheese one night and rigatoni with a tender beef stew another as favorites.

Not sure how much time you'll be spending in Nice, but just wanted to throw it out there that Cannes is a (I think around 30 minutes but don't quote me) short train ride away if you want to check another city off your list or need a break from the other couple (j/k). We always go down one day during our trip late morning, have lunch, spend an hour or two browsing the shopping, and then get on the train before work lets out and come back before dinner to Nice.

Viking65 had great suggestions, and I'll second Villefranche as a great waterfront place to dine, and having a drink at Cafe de Paris in Monaco. It won't be cheap, but everytime you see a Bond movie or F1 race its great to say you were there.

I also agree Eze was a nice place to visit, especially if you're already out in the car and in the area.
avalpert
Posts: 6313
Joined: Sat Mar 22, 2008 4:58 pm

Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by avalpert »

Don't know what types of activities interest you but I would consider taking the train to Epernay for the day and hop around to a few of the Champagne houses and have a nice picnic lunch
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AustenNut
Posts: 148
Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2012 7:19 pm

Re: France - Paris / Nice - Must do List

Post by AustenNut »

I don't remember the name of this eatery, but I can give you directions. I spent my junior year of college in Aix-en-Provence, France, and still remember this meal very fondly (mouth waters just thinking about it). The friend I went with has gone back twice with others, and still raves about it. It's a little creperie near the Musee d'Orsay in Paris. If your back is to the river and the Musee d'Orsay is in front of you, you will walk down the side street that is to the right of the museum. On the right hand side of that street (maybe about half a block or so down) there is the creperie. It has an awning where you can order your crepes to go, or you can eat inside at one of the few tables they have.

Back when I went in 2000 it was 50 francs($7) for the menu which consisted of a savory crepe, a sweet crepe, and a drink. I had ordered the chicken/cheese crepe, a nutella/banana crepe, and an Orangina. An absolutely wonderful meal (the spices with their savory crepe were far superior than what I got at most creperies in France, and the sweet crepe was filled to overflowing with its ingredients...definitely more super-sized than is typically available in France). And I'd add on the Musee d'Orsay as a must-see sight as well...I definitely preferred it over the Louvre. Though the price was right because we were college students, it was far superior to any other meals I ate in France, including when family visited and took me out to some expensive places in Nice and Monaco.

Also, while you're in the Nice area, I'd visit the Chagall museum. Definitely one of the more memorable experiences from the three visits I made there.

Bon voyage!
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