Major maintenance for a 1999 Toyota Camry

[CountryBoy]

I am just a beginner when it comes to my 1999 Toyota Camry with only 123,000 miles on it. I am shooting for 250,000; hopefully.

I have followed the maintenance book pretty closely and am up to date on what has been needed, but
1- when is my next major maintenance and
2-what needs to be done?

The maintenance hand book does not cover the territory I am heading into.

Is the next major service at 180,000 miles and what needs to be done? I don't want to do too little or too much.

Thank You.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The car: 1999 Toyota Camry LE Sedan V6-3/0L (1MZ-FE)

Maintenance: Service 180,000

Check:
· Brakes and Traction Control; inspect pads/discs

Inspect/Adjust: Drive belts

Inspect

· -Brake hose/line
· -Constant velocity Joint boot
· -Exhaust System: pipes and mountings
· -Fuel delivery and air Induction: fuel lines and connections; fuel tank band and vapor vent system
· - Fuel filler cap
· -Steering: gear box, linkage and boots
· -Steering and suspension: ball joints, dust covers, steering linkage

Replace

· - Air filter element
· -Coolant
· - Engine oil
· -Fluid-A/T
· -Fluid-Differential
· -Oil filter, engine
· -Timing Belt
-Thermostat
· -Spark plugs - do they have to be platinum?

[charley]

Replace

· - Air filter element
· -Coolant
· - Engine oil
· -Fluid-A/T
· -Fluid-Differential
· -Oil filter, engine
· -Timing Belt
-Thermostat
· -Spark plugs - do they have to be platinum?

Most of those things are routine maintenance items that you would likely replace sooner than 180k miles, eg. oil and filter, coolant, air filter, and differential and A/T fluid. I think these are variable based on your driving habits (city vs highway, etc).

You can check out the Gates website to verify, but I believe your engine is non-interference. This means that there is sufficient clearance between the pistons and valves even when the timing is out of phase. In practice, it means that if your timing belt breaks you'll be stranded, but the engine won't suffer internal damage.

[CountryBoy]

"the Gates website"............?

[charley]

Im sorry. I meant to include a link and forgot: http://www.gates.com/part_locator/index.cfm?location_id=3598&go=Interference

The timing belt is, in my opinion, the biggest service item on the list. With an interference engine, a timing belt break could destroy the engine. Not so with a non-interference.

[CountryBoy]

Charley

Thanks very much. I went and pulled up the following info but am not sure re the answer to your interference question. My guess is that it is not an interference engine:

It says:
The vehicle shown is not an interference engine unless noted "Interference Engine Application" in the comments column of the Cam Belt application section.

http://www.gates.com/part_locator/index ... on_id=3598
Gates:
Belt Drive System
Front End Accessory Drive Components

Alt. & A.C.
Automotive V-Ribbed Belt (Standard) K060407

P.S.
Automotive V-Ribbed Belt (Standard) K040347

High Performance Automotive V-Ribbed Belt K040347RB (Blue)
Timing Belts & Components

Timing Component Kit
Timing Belt Component Kit TCK257
Does not include cam. tensioner hyd. assy.
Timing Belt Component Kit W/Water Pump TCKWP257

Cam. Belt
Automotive Timing Belt T257

Cam. Idler Pulley
Timing Belt Pulley T42030

Cam. Tensioner Hyd. Assy.
Timing Belt Tensioner T43096

Cam. Tensioner Pulley
Timing Belt Tensioner T41075
Does not include cam. tensioner hyd. assy.
Cam. Seal
Timing Component Seal KS14671
4 Required
Crankshaft Seal
Timing Component Seal KS15818

Cooling System

Coolant Hose

Upper
Molded Coolant Hose 22309

Lower
Molded Coolant Hose 22306

By Pass
Straight Heater Hose (Standard) 28413 (10")

Heater To Pipe-1
Molded Heater Hose 19092

Heater To Pipe-2
Molded Heater Hose 19093

Pipe-1 To Throttle Body
Straight Heater Hose (Standard) 28408 (12")

Throttle Body To Intake Manifold
Straight Heater Hose (Standard) 28408 (12")

Shaping Coil; For 5/16" I.D. Hose
Heater Hose Shaping Coil 28515

Shaping Coil; For 1" I.D. Hose
Heater Hose Shaping Coil 28517

Radiator Caps & Testers

Radiator Cap
Safety Release Radiator Cap 31534 (16 psi)
Check hood clearance prior to installing this cap
OE Type Radiator Cap 31336 (16 psi)

Cap Adapter
Radiator Cap/Cooling System Tester Adapter 31378

Cooling System Adapter
Radiator Cap/Cooling System Tester Adapter 31428

Thermostats, Seals & Gaskets

Thermostat
OE Exact Thermostat 33983 (180º)
OE Temperature
OE Type Thermostat 33868 (180º)
OE Temperature
33867 (170º)
Alternate Temperature
Thermostat Seal
Thermostat Seal 33661

Water Pumps & Components

Water Pump
Water Pump (Standard) 42340
Timing Belt Driven

Fuel System

Fuel Caps & Testers

Fuel Cap; Models made in USA.; Early
OE Equivalent Fuel Cap 31612

Regular Locking Fuel Cap 31675

Fuel Cap; Models made in USA.; Late
OE Equivalent Fuel Cap 31832

Regular Locking Fuel Cap 31780

Fuel Cap Tester Adapter
Fuel Cap/System Tester Adapter 12410 (Threaded) Threaded adapter connected to tester

Oil & Lubrication System

Oil Caps

Oil Filler Cap
Oil Filler Cap 31279

Steering System

Power Steering Hose

Pressure - From Pump; W/43 1/4" Hose
Pressure Line Assembly 365520

Pressure - From Pump; W/47 1/2" Hose; W/Switch Port
Pressure Line Assembly 368760

Pressure - From Pump; W/47 1/2" Hose; W/O Switch Port
Pressure Line Assembly 365530

Pressure Tube - To Rack
Pressure Line Assembly 363070

Return - From Gear
Return Line Assembly 365570

Power Steering Repair Kits

Pump Seal Kit
Power Steering Repair Kit 348376

Rack & Pinion Seal Kit
Power Steering Repair Kit 348367

I did find a spot on the website that said I need to change it once every 90K miles, but not an answer to your very important question.

Thank you.

[charley]

The website is tricky to decode. Above the car information is the cipher for the important info:

"The vehicle shown is not an interference engine unless noted "Interference Engine Application" in the comments column of the Cam Belt application section. "

The Cam Belt application section should be under the timing belt section.

[CountryBoy]

Anyone with advice on spark plugs: how often and what kind?

[camper]

Anyone with advice on spark plugs: how often and what kind?

I went with iridium plugs. Supposedly good for 100,000 miles.

[CountryBoy]

I am not knowledgeable enough to choose wisely between platinum and iridium; I wonder how many people are.

[aja8888]

What you did for maintenance due=ring the first 100,000, just repeat for the next 100,000. When you get to 200,000, have a qualified shop look at the ball joints, struts, and other suspension components which are NOT routine maintenance items. By 200,000, you will also have deteriorating rubber and synthetic parts like the headliner will start to sag, doors will lose their air seal (shrinking seals), and foam seat cushions will star to sag.

How do I know? We have a 1999 Camry with 236,000 miles on it. Granddaughter drives it at college. I have rebuilt most of it and keep it going when she comes home.

Spark plugs, just get the platinum tipped ones and a new set of ignition wires.

[CountryBoy]

aja,

Thanks so very much; that is the guidance I have been looking for but that the car maintenance manual does not cover.

When you get to 200,000, have a qualified shop look at the ball joints, struts, and other suspension components which are NOT routine maintenance items. By 200,000, you will also have deteriorating rubber and synthetic parts like the headliner will start to sag, doors will lose their air seal (shrinking seals), and foam seat cushions will star to sag.

I guess there is no answer to the problems:

deteriorating rubber and synthetic parts like the headliner will start to sag, doors will lose their air seal (shrinking seals), and foam seat cushions will star to sag.

Would it be fair to say that by 200K I will be racking up a lot of repairs/costs that make buying a new car look viable and cheaper than keeping this going? Maybe everything has its limits as to cost efficiency.

My problem is I love things that last a long time..........

[StretchArmstrong]

I believe the manual will tell you to get the dual prod spark plugs. I did a search and it looks like you can use Denso PK20TR11 or NGK BKR6EKPB11. Just call the dealer and ask what plugs it can take, sometimes you arent supposed to mix types. I would change the wires too, and if it has one (mine doesn't) check the distributor cap.

Is this a DIY project?? Be sure to put anti seize on the plugs before you put them in and put dielectric grease on the top. If you don't you will have a fun time next change. There are some cleaning agents you can put in while you have the plugs out. It is amazing how much residue builds up over the years.

You will probably need to change the PCS valve. It is like 8 bucks for OEM. Don't skimp on that. You could also clean the mass airflow sensor. Any parts store will have the cleaner. When it gets dirty it changes how the computer measures the air. Just don't touch it otherwise you are looking at $350 for a new one.

The throttle body could use cleaning too. You have to take the intake off but isn't hard to do.

Check the radiator hose connections and hoses. They can and do wear out. Also, Toyota used to secure the hoses with these crappy clips that you can take off one time and then they are loose. If you do need to replace the hoses get some proper clamps you can adjust with a screw driver.

[CountryBoy]

It sounds to me as if I have a long list of things I need to do....

[newprestonpete]

I use this website as a guide for our 1999 Sienna.
http://www.driverside.com/service-sched ... e_offset=4

[CountryBoy]

Many thanks; a very helpful website.

[Frugal Al]

There are some cleaning agents you can put in while you have the plugs out.

Most of your advice seemed reasonable, Stretch, but in my experience there is no over the counter cleaner that will clean the cylinder bore or valves. Nor is any cylinder cleaning needed in a properly running engine. In the days of carburetors we used to decarb an engine by pouring water directly into the carburetor while it was running/revving. Modern engine fuel management has virtually eliminated those kinds of carbon buildup issues.

[bottlecap]

Your manual should cover more than 123,000 miles, even if it's just to say "Do x at y intervals."

I think you are over-thinking this. There's nothing special about a certain mileage in a car. Just have things checked periodically and replace things when needed. More important things, like timing belts, should be kept track of and checked more frequently when they are nearing the end of their useful life.

Generally speaking, when your odometer rolls over 200,000, you will have some repairs coming (they could come earlier, of course). Since 200k I've had to replace, ball joints, sway bar links, door handles, lift gate latches, fan clutch and even the differential (although this one - a fairly big one - I could have probably avoided if I'd been more observant). If you've kept the maintenance up, this probably won't be huge stuff, but it will start to add up. Non-routine stuff have cost me probably about $3,200 over the last 3 years or about 5 or 6 cents a mile. Without the differential, it would be a little more than half that.

Stuff wears out after 16 years and 200k. Your decision will then become "Do I want to spend $xxxx for another 50,000 miles, get a new car or spend $xxxx and drive it for another 100,000+ miles?"

Good luck,

JT

[CountryBoy]

I guess I have lots to learn when it comes to the different car parts so as to be able to "replace things when needed" and also determining "when they are nearing the end of their useful life."

That is a lot to know about a lot of different parts.

[bottlecap]

I guess I have lots to learn when it comes to the different car parts so as to be able to "replace things when needed" and also determining "when they are nearing the end of their useful life."

That is a lot to know about a lot of different parts.

It's not that bad. And as your vehicle ages, you learn as you go. The biggest thing on most cars is the timing belt, which usually starts nearing its useful life between 80-90k. They will last more than 100k, but failure can be catastrophic, so it's important to check 'em. I usually replace by 90 or 100k just so I don't have to worry too much. Other than that, find a mechanic you trust, watch your gauges and and don't ignore service lights.

The two most important things I find with an older high-mileage vehicle is don't be oblivious and if you notice a change in operation, don't wait to have it checked out. If you fail to do these two things, you might need a tow someday....

The good thing and older high-mileage vehicle is that if something really bad does happen, you're only out the value of the vehicle (usually not much) and your decision to repair or replace has essentially been made for you!

JT

[CountryBoy]

Well I did the timing belt at 90K so that is a start. And I have followed the maintenance manual up to this point of 123K; so time will tell.

As to determining when different parts "are nearing the end of their useful life," is a bit of a challenge for me. For me it is a bit like the necessity for tightening a bolt 1/2 turn short of stripping the thread.

Or as another example: I guess I need to go out and determine the life span of:

• Brake hose/line
• Constant velocity Joint boot
• Exhaust System: pipes and mountings
• Fuel delivery and air Induction: fuel lines and connections; fuel tank band and vapor vent system
• Fuel filler cap
• Steering: gear box, linkage and boots
• Steering and suspension: ball joints, dust covers, steering linkage

And of course there are the brake pads and rotors. Since no car shop in my area let's a car owner into their garage to see with his own eyes, how is one to know the point of "the end of their useful life?" I have no jack or car lift so it is all on ... f a i t h... in the mechanic.

[bottlecap]

Well I did the timing belt at 90K so that is a start. And I have followed the maintenance manual up to this point of 123K; so time will tell.

As to determining when different parts "are nearing the end of their useful life," is a bit of a challenge for me. For me it is a bit like the necessity for tightening a bolt 1/2 turn short of stripping the thread.

Or as another example: I guess I need to go out and deter the life span of:

• Brake hose/line
• Constant velocity Joint boot
• Exhaust System: pipes and mountings
• Fuel delivery and air Induction: fuel lines and connections; fuel tank band and vapor vent system
• Fuel filler cap
• Steering: gear box, linkage and boots
• Steering and suspension: ball joints, dust covers, steering linkage

And of course there are the brake pads and rotors. Since no car shop in my area let's a car owner into their garage to see with his own eyes, how is one to know the point of "the end of their useful life?" I have no jack or car lift so it is all on ... f a i t h... in the mechanic.

Quite frankly, I don't worry about any of those things you bullet-point, with maybe the exception of the ball joints, which I might have inspected from time to time. First, you only have 123,000 miles at this point. Second, you will in most cases get warning signs about the other stuff. That's why it's important not to ignore the warning signs. Mine is well over 200k and I've never replaced any of that stuff (with the exception of the ball joints).

How often brakes need to be done are typically a function of how much you use them (most often dependent on how fast you drive). If don't jam on them much, they should last somewhere in the neighborhood of 50k. Your trusted mechanic will also give you an idea of when brakes might need to be done. Outside of that it comes down to feel (spongy, pulsating, grinding) and sound (squeaky, grinding).

I guess the best thing you can do is find a mechanic you trust. You can ask around to do this, or try various places with smaller jobs. In my experience, mechanics are like index funds: you get what you don't pay for. Find one with reasonable prices and who gets a lot of work - those are good signs. But be suspicious - a trick I sometimes use with a new mechanic is to ask them to check things I know are okay, but easy for them to say they need replacing. Brakes are a good example. If I ask someone who's rotating my tires to check the brakes and they come back and say that they've still got 30-40% left, that's a good sign they aren't trying to do unnecessary work. Sometimes I have to talk the guy I presently use into doing work, so I'm usually not too concerned about him padding the bill with unnecessary stuff.

JT

[NHRATA01]

Well I did the timing belt at 90K so that is a start. And I have followed the maintenance manual up to this point of 123K; so time will tell.

As to determining when different parts "are nearing the end of their useful life," is a bit of a challenge for me. For me it is a bit like the necessity for tightening a bolt 1/2 turn short of stripping the thread.

Or as another example: I guess I need to go out and deter the life span of:

• Brake hose/line
• Constant velocity Joint boot
• Exhaust System: pipes and mountings
• Fuel delivery and air Induction: fuel lines and connections; fuel tank band and vapor vent system
• Fuel filler cap
• Steering: gear box, linkage and boots
• Steering and suspension: ball joints, dust covers, steering linkage

And of course there are the brake pads and rotors. Since no car shop in my area let's a car owner into their garage to see with his own eyes, how is one to know the point of "the end of their useful life?" I have no jack or car lift so it is all on ... f a i t h... in the mechanic.

Brake pads will begin to squeal noticeably when they hit the wear indicators. Of if you know what you are looking at, find where the pad is visible on the rotor and observe how much pad material is there.

Brake hoses and lines - best thing to do is trace the path and look for leaks on the hoses, or significant corrosion on the lines. In the rust belt lines can corrode at about the age of your vehicle (10-15 years).

CV Boot - look for grease coming out of the boot, that will indicate a failure. Also a noticeable clicking that changes with the rotation speed of the wheel.

Exhaust system - excessive visible corrosion, things hanging down well past where they should hang, louder exhaust tone

Fuel lines and tank - not much to see or go bad. Probably a plastic tank, otherwise corrosion can be an issue whereby the pump filter sock gets clogged with grime.

Fuel vapor system and cap - you will get a check engine light if anything is wrong

Steering box and linkage - be aware if wheel feels unusual, pump whines loudly when when turning wheel, or loud pops and creaks coming from joints when wheel is turned

Suspension - firmly push down on each corner of the suspension and ideally the car should return to height and settle quickly. If the car keeps bouncing, shocks are bad. If the ride height is off (such as rear end sitting much lower than normal) springs are bad. If suspension creaks over bumps, ball joints bad. Also jack up the car at each corner, grab the tire and see if it wiggles. Excessive movement = bad balljoint. Also if driving and you hear a "whoomp, whoomp, whoomp" that increases in frequency with speed, also bad balljoint


Finally as always the best thing to do is ask around exhaustively and find a trustworthy mechanic. It is not easy to find one, but they are worth their weight in gold.

[CountryBoy]

JT

Many thanks for your excellent observations and guidance; greatly appreciated.

Just a small footnote if I may and that is on the Toyota 90k mile normal service maintenance list there is not one mention of ball joint inspection and yet you say:

"Quite frankly, I don't worry about any of those things you bullet-point, with maybe the exception of the ball joints, which I might have inspected from time to time."

I will of course go with what you advise. I had to look up in wikipedia re ball joints to understand what you were saying.

Bottom line for me is that trying to keep a car to 200K miles is no easy thing and as well quite a bit of a learning curve.

Thanks again.

cb

[CountryBoy]

NHRATA01

Many thanks for your time and comprehensive answer.

Please check your PM

cb

[bottlecap]

Just a small footnote if I may and that is on the Toyota 90k mile normal service maintenance list there is not one mention of ball joint inspection and yet you say:

"Quite frankly, I don't worry about any of those things you bullet-point, with maybe the exception of the ball joints, which I might have inspected from time to time."

I will of course go with what you advise. I had to look up in wikipedia re ball joints to understand what you were saying.

Actually, at 90k, you shouldn't have to worry about ball joints, either. I started getting some noise after 200k and that's when I had the front end check and got them done. But it is a part you don't want to fail while you're rolling down the interstate and some of the concern is age and not mileage. Yours is a year older than mine and I had them done 2 or 3 years ago.

The good news for you is that I don't have anywhere near the knowledge of some of the posters, like NHRATA01, but I've been able to keep mine running from experience and - of course - with the help of decent mechanics. Just owning a high mileage car will get you some practical experience. You may not be able fix them, but you'll be able to figure out when you need to take them to someone who can!

Good luck,

JT

[Reubin]

I've had 3 Toyotas with much more than 300,000 miles. I kept them away from mechanics as much as possible. I would recommend occasional oil changes, a drain and fill on your A/T every 100,000 miles, timing belt every 100,000 while leaving the water pump alone, struts and brakes and spark plugs as needed. Nothing else is required unless it calls your attention to it.

[CountryBoy]

Reubin,

3 Toyotas with much more than 300,000 miles

Those sound like very serious credentials; thank you for your comments.

Today I had the car mechanic down the street do the following:

1 Differential Service -apparently it had never been done.
1-Valve Cover Gasket Set-was leaking very badly
1-Sway bar link-hopefully improve the ride.
1-Rear sway bar bushing kit-hopefully improve the ride.
1-Can of degreaser-a lot of oil around.

Total cost: $670.46 included parts, labor, tax.

I really do want to thank everyone for all the time, expertise, and thought they have given to this thread. It is greatly appreciated. I have learned a lot and of course come to the very belated realization of what one has to know in order to keep a car for 250K-300K miles. That does not just happen; it takes a lot of study and knowing what to do and what not to do; where to worry and where not to worry in order to pull it off. I truly hope I make that 300K mark, but only time will tell.

And of course, my thanks to everyone for their patient answering of so many beginner level questions. You folks have shown that just reading the manual is clearly not enough.

country boy