DaveS wrote:You open an IRA account and deposit money into it. You did not post expenses for the funds you own. They are really expensive ones. If you poke around Vanguards web page, you may find a cost analyzer. Run the extra 1% in costs through it for 30 years or do the math in your head and you will be surprised at how much appreciation you lose to those costs. In the wiki this site take a look at the 3 or 4 fund portfolio's. Dave
Beantown85 wrote:150k in the bank as an EF seems insanely high. Do you really need three times your annual gross salary as an EF? You should be maxing all tax advantaged accounts and burning down that EF as necessary.
Grt2bOutdoors wrote:Can you list all the available funds in the 403b? If you take a look at Blue Chip Growth holdings you will see it's not what we call diversified - it's more like a closet tech fund. I would hardly call a tech fund - blue chip, even if some of them are established with good track records.
dickenjb wrote:You need to list all the funds available in your 401k and their expense ratios.
Then we can help.
We will probably advise you to max out your 401k at $17,500 and live off your insanely large emergency fund in the bank. Unless your 401k choices really really suck.
325e wrote:You make $50k and have $150k saved. Assuming that is not inheritance or something, that means you live below your means and can save even with a $500 car payment. That is excellent.
Saving money is the first part, then allocating is next.
If you live below means, perhaps you spend $30k a year or less. So that gives you 5 years of EF. That seems high.
No brainer is to open a Vanguard Roth and take that $500 a month car payment that is almost done, and throw it monthly into a roth. Pick a two or three fund (google boglehead 2 or 3 fund) and just keep putting money in there. After 5 years, you can take out principle from a roth penalty free, so it can double as an extra cushion to an EF if you really need it one day. But then you won't be paying taxes on the growth and it will work for you.
Put together a plan for what you want to achieve.
Based on that plan, you'll be able to better pick options to invest your money. The 401k is an amazing thing. If the market returns 7% a year, your money will double every 10 years. At 7%, $150k becomes $300k in 10, $600k in 20, 1.2mm in 30. Of course, this is not guaranteed. But to have your money grow tax free is a good deal. As said before, you could live on some of that $150k and start maxing your 401k along with the roth.
Overall, you are saving well. I would just start getting a chunk of that money to work for you in investments instead of sitting in the bank slowly losing money. If you are very conservative, you could pay extra on the mortgage as a trade-off to the EF, but your real gains will likely come from investing over the long term.
h8 2 lose wrote:dickenjb wrote:You need to list all the funds available in your 401k and their expense ratios.
Then we can help.
We will probably advise you to max out your 401k at $17,500 and live off your insanely large emergency fund in the bank. Unless your 401k choices really really suck.
I thought I posted them, see I don't know how to read them, if can take a pic and upload then I would. Max out meaning take my after tax money and put 17.5 in it? Or If they allow me to put up to 25% of gross in there I should?
Grt2bOutdoors wrote:Let's take a step back before we even provide investment suggestions.
The OP is 33, OP how long did it take you to amass that $150K - was it by scrimp and saving, an inheritance or you got lucky in the lottery? The reason I ask, is one who saved since the first job is likely not willing or wanting to place their money in investments that may cause principal to decline. This should be your first step - how much principal are you willing to place at risk, how much risk are you willing to assume and what is the ultimate purpose of these investments.
Emotionally, having that $150K in the bank probably provides you some piece of mind. How comfortable are you with reducing that balance? Will you be able to sleep at night, if you have $100K or $50K in the bank?
Second, how secure is your current employment? Are you in a sector/industry that experiences frequent layoffs?
When I asked about what investments were available in the 403(b) what I meant was of those funds you listed, is that all that is available to invest in or are there others that you could invest in but have chosen not to? Ex. You use 5 different funds, but there are 10 funds from which to choose. If there are others, can you please list them?
Grt2bOutdoors wrote:325e wrote:You make $50k and have $150k saved. Assuming that is not inheritance or something, that means you live below your means and can save even with a $500 car payment. That is excellent.
Saving money is the first part, then allocating is next.
If you live below means, perhaps you spend $30k a year or less. So that gives you 5 years of EF. That seems high.
No brainer is to open a Vanguard Roth and take that $500 a month car payment that is almost done, and throw it monthly into a roth. quote]
Disagree - No brainer would be to use the Traditional IRA; reason being OP will receive immediate tax deductibility due to current income limitation, OP likely will receive a Savers Credit when filing. Unless OP is on a career path which will lead to significant tax bracket creep that is sustained through retirement, OP will likely pay little or no taxes in retirement.
Grt2bOutdoors wrote:h8 2 lose wrote:dickenjb wrote:You need to list all the funds available in your 401k and their expense ratios.
Then we can help.
We will probably advise you to max out your 401k at $17,500 and live off your insanely large emergency fund in the bank. Unless your 401k choices really really suck.
I thought I posted them, see I don't know how to read them, if can take a pic and upload then I would. Max out meaning take my after tax money and put 17.5 in it? Or If they allow me to put up to 25% of gross in there I should?
OP - how much are you coming home with monthly right now?
Take home - less mortgage, car payment, utilities, food, spending money = how much is left over at the end of the month?
Johm221122 wrote:I did not want to comment but share this if have not seen it
Bogleheads philosophy
http://www.bogleheads.org/wiki/Boglehea ... philosophy
John
h8 2 lose wrote:Johm221122 wrote:I did not want to comment but share this if have not seen it
Bogleheads philosophy
http://www.bogleheads.org/wiki/Boglehea ... philosophy
John
why didn't you want to comment John, thanks for commenting. I shall read that and try to understand. It all seems like a lot to take in. While I'm smart in some areas, I have mani idea in others. Thanks again everyone
h8 2 lose wrote:dickenjb wrote:You need to list all the funds available in your 401k and their expense ratios.
Then we can help.
We will probably advise you to max out your 401k at $17,500 and live off your insanely large emergency fund in the bank. Unless your 401k choices really really suck.
......Max out meaning take my after tax money and put 17.5 in it? Or If they allow me to put up to 25% of gross in there I should?
ok thx jw, however don't I need to re arrange my portfolio first?JW Nearly Retired wrote:h8 2 lose wrote:dickenjb wrote:You need to list all the funds available in your 401k and their expense ratios.
Then we can help.
We will probably advise you to max out your 401k at $17,500 and live off your insanely large emergency fund in the bank. Unless your 401k choices really really suck.
......Max out meaning take my after tax money and put 17.5 in it? Or If they allow me to put up to 25% of gross in there I should?
Max out meaning take my after tax money and put 17.5 in it?.......... Not directly because it isn't allowed. But you can do it indirectly.
Or If they allow me to put up to 25% of gross in there I should?........... Yes, boost your regular paycheck contributions up to 17500/12 = $1450/month, or whatever is the 25% max you would be allowed to do. Then take use ef withdrawels to make up for your reduced take home pay. You were already putting in some money and you will get a bigger tax break, so I doubt you will need to use more than $1000/month from the ef to "max" the 401k at $17,500. In effect this shifts money from your ef to your 401k.
JW
Johm221122 wrote:h8 2 lose wrote:Johm221122 wrote:I did not want to comment but share this if have not seen it
Bogleheads philosophy
http://www.bogleheads.org/wiki/Boglehea ... philosophy
John
why didn't you want to comment John, thanks for commenting. I shall read that and try to understand. It all seems like a lot to take in. While I'm smart in some areas, I have mani idea in others. Thanks again everyone
You are getting advise from others,I did not have time to follow all the replies right now.Your in right place, take your time.I will look latter if I see anything I let you know
Good luck
John
Thx grt, so just go to any bank and say I'd like to open a t ira, and deposit how much of my after tax money? In one shot or monthly ad you've suggested? In regards to the car, looking to sell to get a better fuel efficient car. The payment will be lower and I don't mind having one. I like the new subaru legacy.
h8 2 lose wrote:ok thx jw, however don't I need to re arrange my portfolio first?JW Nearly Retired wrote:h8 2 lose wrote:dickenjb wrote:You need to list all the funds available in your 401k and their expense ratios.
Then we can help.
We will probably advise you to max out your 401k at $17,500 and live off your insanely large emergency fund in the bank. Unless your 401k choices really really suck.
......Max out meaning take my after tax money and put 17.5 in it? Or If they allow me to put up to 25% of gross in there I should?
Max out meaning take my after tax money and put 17.5 in it?.......... Not directly because it isn't allowed. But you can do it indirectly.
Or If they allow me to put up to 25% of gross in there I should?........... Yes, boost your regular paycheck contributions up to 17500/12 = $1450/month, or whatever is the 25% max you would be allowed to do. Then take use ef withdrawels to make up for your reduced take home pay. You were already putting in some money and you will get a bigger tax break, so I doubt you will need to use more than $1000/month from the ef to "max" the 401k at $17,500. In effect this shifts money from your ef to your 401k.
JW
bogleblitz wrote:Why is there a car payment in the first place? I would think you would have paid in full with cash unless it is 0% finance. I know you are trying to get rid of the car payment.
JW Nearly Retired wrote:h8 2 lose wrote:ok thx jw, however don't I need to re arrange my portfolio first?JW Nearly Retired wrote:h8 2 lose wrote:dickenjb wrote:You need to list all the funds available in your 401k and their expense ratios.
Then we can help.
We will probably advise you to max out your 401k at $17,500 and live off your insanely large emergency fund in the bank. Unless your 401k choices really really suck.
......Max out meaning take my after tax money and put 17.5 in it? Or If they allow me to put up to 25% of gross in there I should?
Max out meaning take my after tax money and put 17.5 in it?.......... Not directly because it isn't allowed. But you can do it indirectly.
Or If they allow me to put up to 25% of gross in there I should?........... Yes, boost your regular paycheck contributions up to 17500/12 = $1450/month, or whatever is the 25% max you would be allowed to do. Then take use ef withdrawels to make up for your reduced take home pay. You were already putting in some money and you will get a bigger tax break, so I doubt you will need to use more than $1000/month from the ef to "max" the 401k at $17,500. In effect this shifts money from your ef to your 401k.
JW
I don't think it makes much difference as long as you will follow through on rearranging your portfolio. Once you decide (with our help) on what funds you want to hold in the 401k, that can usually be made to happen on-line in a few mouse clicks. You just exchange from your current bunch of funds to a new bunch.
Can you access your 401k account on line now? I thought that was pretty standard.
JW
Default User BR wrote:You're a lot like I was, only getting going earlier. I would advise reading some of the books from the reading list in the Wiki. That will help ease you into the process of letting go of some of those savings and turning them into investments. At 33, time is on your side.
Brian
Beantown85 wrote:150k in the bank as an EF seems insanely high. Do you really need three times your annual gross salary as an EF? You should be maxing all tax advantaged accounts and burning down that EF as necessary.
Beantown85 wrote:150k in the bank as an EF seems insanely high. Do you really need three times your annual gross salary as an EF? You should be maxing all tax advantaged accounts and burning down that EF as necessary.
Random Musings wrote:Unless the EF is really needed, I think the no-brainer is to take $10,500 of the $150K in EF and place in Roth.
$5,000 for 2012 contribution
$5,500 for 2013 contribution
How it will be invested will depend upon details of portfolio choices in 401K and other factors not yet provided by OP.
RM
h8 2 lose wrote:Random Musings wrote:Unless the EF is really needed, I think the no-brainer is to take $10,500 of the $150K in EF and place in Roth.
$5,000 for 2012 contribution
$5,500 for 2013 contribution
How it will be invested will depend upon details of portfolio choices in 401K and other factors not yet provided by OP.
RM
I can do that and not worry, where should I put it?
h8 2 lose wrote:here are my options to reallocate: If i need more info, just tell me what to input. Thanks..
SWPPX
SENCX
NSVAX
FSEMX
NAMAX
NSVAX
DIISX
Schwab Managed Retirement Trust Income Fund
Schwab Managed Retirement Trust Fund 2010 UNIT CLASS 2
Schwab Managed Retirement Trust Fund 2015, 2020, 2025, 2030, 2035, 2040, 2045, 2050
DBIRX
SWUXX
Morley Stable Value Fund CLASS 50-1
also, updated first post to show the symbols?
JW Nearly Retired wrote:h8 2 lose wrote:here are my options to reallocate: If i need more info, just tell me what to input. Thanks..
SWPPX
SENCX
NSVAX
FSEMX
NAMAX
NSVAX
DIISX
Schwab Managed Retirement Trust Income Fund
Schwab Managed Retirement Trust Fund 2010 UNIT CLASS 2
Schwab Managed Retirement Trust Fund 2015, 2020, 2025, 2030, 2035, 2040, 2045, 2050
DBIRX
SWUXX
Morley Stable Value Fund CLASS 50-1
also, updated first post to show the symbols?
I think you have some pretty good low expense choices here. Just to clarify, you now show in the OP that you are presently invested in the following:
RRBGX 11%
MPEGX 30%
TGVIX 19%
MALOX 19%
WFGDX 21%
This plus the other group above is all the choices in your 401k... correct?
Can you add the expense ratios to this? and fund names? Some folks here complain about needing to look them up. Also we need the ERs within the 401k including whatever admin fee the 401k custodian is tacking on. And sometimes the 401k ERs are different from the retail versions of the funds. This info should be in the 401k Summary Plan Description (SPD) document.
JW
which do you suggest? I'd like to do as mentioned above and add that 5000 and 5500, respectively, Right now.Random Musings wrote:h8 2 lose wrote:Random Musings wrote:Unless the EF is really needed, I think the no-brainer is to take $10,500 of the $150K in EF and place in Roth.
$5,000 for 2012 contribution
$5,500 for 2013 contribution
How it will be invested will depend upon details of portfolio choices in 401K and other factors not yet provided by OP.
RM
I can do that and not worry, where should I put it?
Initially, just place in a money market fund until you get everything sorted out with respect to implementing your written investment plan.
RM
h8 2 lose wrote:which do you suggest? I'd like to do as mentioned above and add that 5000 and 5500, respectively, Right now.Random Musings wrote:h8 2 lose wrote:Random Musings wrote:Unless the EF is really needed, I think the no-brainer is to take $10,500 of the $150K in EF and place in Roth.
$5,000 for 2012 contribution
$5,500 for 2013 contribution
How it will be invested will depend upon details of portfolio choices in 401K and other factors not yet provided by OP.
RM
I can do that and not worry, where should I put it?
Initially, just place in a money market fund until you get everything sorted out with respect to implementing your written investment plan.
RM
so I just go in the bank and tell them I want to open up a ira and that's it? What type of benefits does it give to my tax obligations?Random Musings wrote:h8 2 lose wrote:which do you suggest? I'd like to do as mentioned above and add that 5000 and 5500, respectively, Right now.Random Musings wrote:h8 2 lose wrote:Random Musings wrote:Unless the EF is really needed, I think the no-brainer is to take $10,500 of the $150K in EF and place in Roth.
$5,000 for 2012 contribution
$5,500 for 2013 contribution
How it will be invested will depend upon details of portfolio choices in 401K and other factors not yet provided by OP.
RM
I can do that and not worry, where should I put it?
Initially, just place in a money market fund until you get everything sorted out with respect to implementing your written investment plan.
RM
There are various companies you can use to do this - Vanguard, Fidelity, Schwab, TRowe, Wells Fargo and so on. Most of these companies will offer low-cost ETF's or indexed mutual funds to provide you with the asset classes you need. Some investors here prefer all their assets in one shop as best they can (excluding company plans and 529's) while others will use more than one so that all their assets are not in one basket - I prefer the former approach.
I think the key, with interest rates being so low, is to move the money to a Roth, set up you plan and then disburse those $ in MM fund to appropriate asset classes once everything is fleshed out. The money market fund chosen should not be a "high-yield" one that incurs market risk. Even "safe" funds (including those from T-Rowe and Schwab) injected some $ into their MM funds in the tweak their funds back to par - they ultimately had to disclose (I think in 2008).
RM
Johm221122 wrote:I would not go to bank try somewhere like vanguard
https://personal.vanguard.com/us/openaccount
John
h8 2 lose wrote:Johm221122 wrote:I would not go to bank try somewhere like vanguard
https://personal.vanguard.com/us/openaccount
John
Thnks john I'll look into it tonight.
h8 2 lose wrote:h8 2 lose wrote:Johm221122 wrote:I would not go to bank try somewhere like vanguard
https://personal.vanguard.com/us/openaccount
John
Thnks john I'll look into it tonight.
Should I open a roth or t ira? Thanks again everyone
JW Nearly Retired wrote:h8 2 lose wrote:h8 2 lose wrote:Johm221122 wrote:I would not go to bank try somewhere like vanguard
https://personal.vanguard.com/us/openaccount
John
Thnks john I'll look into it tonight.
Should I open a roth or t ira? Thanks again everyone
We at least need to know your marginal tax bracket to say. Compare your taxable income (line 43 of form 1040) with this table and tell us. http://www.forbes.com/sites/moneybuilde ... nal-rates/
Taxable income is going to be less than your 50k gross income by at least the std deduction and exemptions. We don't know your marital status so we can't estimate your bracket.
Do you file a single or married filing jointly tax return?
If you are in the 25% bracket I would open a TIRA. In 15% or lower a Roth.
JW
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